tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37238135308966548402024-03-19T03:39:29.793-07:00Nick's Cape Town to Cairo Tour 2017Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-76799752312546502982017-03-29T09:16:00.000-07:002017-03-29T09:16:02.733-07:00Last StoryThis last note is being directed to the many readers who have sent such thoughtful notes of support over the last two months. Being a such a long ways away, I am really grateful for your support and encouragement and it has kept my enthusiasm going to make the story as interesting as possible. Thanks very much and again sorry I could not reply personally, best, Nick<br /><br />Ps I am sure my good friend Karen will not mind my sharing this story!<br />
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Thanks Karen! This may be providential and I know you will appreciate hearing about it. I wish I had time and space to share it with my wider audience but yesterday was chock full of uncertainty and a race against the clock.<br /><br />We left the Mena Hotel at 5 am for the 200 km trip to Alexandria. Having made one journey already in a crowded bus to get the 'preliminary' paperwork completed we did not anticipate too many delays, not! We got to the shipping/cargo area and it was one stop, then another and on and on. I was understanding because after all, we are in a foreign country and it is not often that 10 motorcycles are being containerized to go to the U.S.<br /><br />Others were not and were in danger of people missing their flights. We did not get back to our hotel until 14 hours later and it was touch and go for 3 of our group to make their 1:30 am flights.<br /><br />When we FINALLY got permission to load the bikes you should have seen Helge swing into action! Of course he has done this before but not with such a rush against the clock. He swung those bikes around and strapped them down with the rest of us helping in record time all in the dark with a few flashlights; quite the scene.<br /><br />So here is the providence bit: that lovely little clam shell you gave me for good luck was in my right hand riding pocket zipped up the whole time along with an emergency plastic key, a whistle and some chapstick.<br /><br />We get to the shipping port at one of our wait points and it is getting warmer so people are stripping off clothing including me; a little while later I look down where my bike is on its center stand and there lying on the ground is that little clam shell! It was so neat to see it there all white and obvious on the dirty ground. <br /><br />I really do not know how it got there or even fell out of my pocket and I did not have time to check for holes in the lining. I just looked at it for a few seconds and then picked it up, dusted it off and put it back in its hiding place.<br /><br />Later I thought about the coincidence of it all; last day, last stop, there it was maybe sending a message.<br /><br />Thanks a lot for asking me to take it along because I am sure that little clam shell kept me safe.<br /><br />Best, Nick<br />Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-43374791720845435282017-03-19T22:30:00.000-07:002017-03-21T19:38:26.132-07:00Missive #9, Day 56 Sat, Mar 11th to Day 63 Sat, Mar 18th<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
56, Sat Mar 11th</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Maritim
Jolie Ville Kings, Luxor, 0 km</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
have been to the Pantheon, the Acropolis and Cape Sounion in Greece, the
Coliseum in Rome and many other ruins, all very impressive. However, nothing
remotely compares to what I saw today. The Greeks and Romans were like little
boys playing with meccano sets in comparison to what the Egyptians built more
than a millennia before them.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
started off on the west bank of the Nile which symbolized death because that is
where the sun set and it became nightfall; the east symbolized life with the
sunrise. The west bank is where the Valley of the Kings was discovered up in
the mountains right adjacent to Luxor. There are 64 tombs in total but in order
to preserve what is there, 9 are open to the public; only 26 remain intact as
the tomb robbers made a habit of ransacking the treasures inside once a sacred
location was discovered. There is much more to discover as remote sensing
techniques and ground penetrating radar can locate new cavities without
disturbing too much in their search so these methods will become more prevalent
with time.</span></div>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
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visit was heavenly compared to what the tourist traffic used to be like; in the
good old days 8,000 tourists per day caused claustrophobic conditions getting
in and out of the tombs. Untold billions of tourism dollars flowed in which is
now just a comparative trickle- this makes visitations today that much more
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were not allowed to take photos inside but I did pick up some postcard photos.
The creative thought and planning that went in to building these tombs for each
Pharoah started when he was appointed as the process took a lifetime and
the work effort to dig hundreds of feet into and down into a mountain side was
extensive. The artwork and hieroglyphics to tell the story not to speak of the
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table.MsoNormalTable
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mso-style-priority:99;
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
went in to 6 of the 9 tombs (some several hundred metres into the ground)
including King Tut's and our guide Mohammed gave us excellent insights into
each one. I was very moved by the engineering, digging process, and sheer
effort involved especially with the kinds of tools and implements thay had to
use in those days. Many of these tombs were and still are buried under </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">significant
sand dunes of time. It is also quite extraordinary just how much we know about
each of these Pharoah's and their complex lives as told by the detailed stories
on the walls.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The Pharoahs wanted to be preserved forever in a mummified
process that would take them to the after life; no one can reach a second life
without being preserved through a mumification process which takes 70 days. The
brain is removed through the eyes, nostrils and ears, the intestines and blood
is drawn out, the body is washed and stuffed with spices and sawdust, there is
a wait period of 40 days and then a great deal of linen is used to wrap and
preserve what remains. All of this is buried in a sarcophagus at the end of the
specially designed tomb complete with gold, jewels and other riches. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It is believed that some of the guards and workmen became
corrupted and worked with tomb robbers to desecrate some of these precious
sites over many, many centuries. Most of the tombs were very carefully hidden
in the mountains and almost impossible to locate so thankfully a lot has been
preserved. What you see gives the visitor some idea of the amazing
sophistication of this society over 3,500 plus years ago.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The Pharoahs and their scientists understood time
exceedingly well; they had 24 hours, 7 days, 12 months, even leap years
figured out. Their astronomical skills were incredible. They had a sun dial in
those days and used the sun in amazing ways to reflect light into places at
special times of the year.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">What eventually happened is that their civilization became
fractured much like the Greeks and Romans after them and incoming hoards of
Libyans, Nubians, Persians including Alexander the Great etc. broke down and
attempted to destroy their history. Fortunately much remains for us to see and
enjoy.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We next went to see Queen Hapshepsut's resting place and
learn about her complicated place in Egyptian history which I largely tuned
out from.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The third visitation was splendid. It was the Karnak temples
built by the Pharoah's for the high priests. It got added on to by each Pharoah
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I made one big mistake. I was not prepared for the grandeur
and immensity of what I saw let alone the complexity of the history before me.
I just got overwhelmed out of sheer ignorance and lack of education. Anyone who
can afford a trip abroad should put this high on their "to do" list
if not at the top (the peak season is Oct-Apr). I will come back again someday
better prepared.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Let me also say that Egypt looks very, very safe from this
person's eyes. Yes there is a lot of over the top security and yes there are
some wackos out there but in general you cannot find nicer, more <span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">hospitable</span>
people anywhere and of course there is so much to see and learn. My advice
should you wish to visit is to do some research first to better understand and
enjoy what you are going to see.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">O</span>ur last visit was the Luxor temple and the avenue of the
sphinxes- 1750 of them on the 3 km street leading to the Karnak temple where
the high priests hung out; just about all of this was buried and unknown until
very recently so it a quite a sight to see.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAI9HV11KVsg46nXPhXYK3Sp0JRKDEN1H6oehLeDyxAPtv8UNvlBMMwiQ5WWt9YBDr8_34t1i7HRm-KTMaWkmKQCUxdhPXPsOCxNLNPK5Dsi-S8-9ufoCIJtGqyXZ79VicOnrwJTHijmx/s1600/missive101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAI9HV11KVsg46nXPhXYK3Sp0JRKDEN1H6oehLeDyxAPtv8UNvlBMMwiQ5WWt9YBDr8_34t1i7HRm-KTMaWkmKQCUxdhPXPsOCxNLNPK5Dsi-S8-9ufoCIJtGqyXZ79VicOnrwJTHijmx/s1600/missive101.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">By now my thumbs are getting tired plinking away so enough
of this except to say- we saw many Obelisks in our journeys, great huge
monuments that make the Washington Monument in DC look like a dinky toy. They
carved these things out of the ground down in Aswan and moved them during the
4 month flood season of the Nile all in a 7 month time span. The ones I saw are
70-100 feet high and weigh 150-350 tons. How in the hell did they do all of
this? Just stop and think for a minute what kind of planning and preparation,
carving and chiseling, polishing and finishing, rolling and moving all of this
required, simply unbelievable. </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I do not think I have seen anything quite so large, majestic
and moving in my lifetime. We were all exhausted and somewhat speechless by the
end of the day's activities.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 57, Sun Mar 12th</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Jolie
Kings, Luxor to Westin Soma Bay, Hurghada, 263 km</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Lots
of flat tire problems and this morning is no exception. Part of it comes from
rough roads which we have long since passed and part of it comes from low tire
tread. On another trip Helge will be changing tires in Arusha for sure. Even
though we all have tube less tires we also carry inner tubes in the event that
the outer tire will no longer hold air- which was the case with Helge's rear
tire this morning.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Tom,
Joe and Helge have been the most problematic mainly with rear tires. Omar
brought down some old tires as spares which is what we have been using but
they do not seem to be holding air well either; a trip like this has so many
variables and good tires is a critical component.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
travelled again in convoy eastwards to the coast on good roads. I have not
quite figured out why we are being so closely supervised. Maybe because we are
motorcyclists, or Americans or all of these police people do not have enough to
do so they need to keep busy, I do not know. There were lots of unsupervised
tour buses all over the place yesterday. We had a motorcycle cop with flashing
lights in front, a well armed guard detail behind us and another guy with a
Heckler Koch automatic weapon on board. Kind of amusing we all thought!</span></div>
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</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">When
we left our hotel this morning we were again under armed supervision most of
the way. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
arrived at our Westin Hotel on the Red Sea to be met by the local motorcycle
club so it was fun to meet them. There is a Gary Player golf course here which
we will play tomorrow during our relax day.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWFYDGGunbb1Wru7zDOhLXpk27PEs9xXEv4tyBue2FSxP_QPKED8TOg0eQvibRe7XfvGRJ57g74W097NkGRstt6h9WAJBAZXkcWttbknWwxixNR7lcCUleL7__kZRIrG84YACu0spn4qY/s1600/missive102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwWFYDGGunbb1Wru7zDOhLXpk27PEs9xXEv4tyBue2FSxP_QPKED8TOg0eQvibRe7XfvGRJ57g74W097NkGRstt6h9WAJBAZXkcWttbknWwxixNR7lcCUleL7__kZRIrG84YACu0spn4qY/s1600/missive102.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
hotel also has two very nice squash courts. It did not take Mac and I long to
get in a game as the time for heckling had ended and the time to play was at
hand. I am pleased to say that I won the match but lost the best of three for
the beer afterwards so we were both winners I guess!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Even though he is from New
Jersey (strike one of many), Mac and I get along great, two peas in a pod,
squash player wannabes, specialize in one upmanship antics. In a crowd the dynamics
change and friendly insults are hurled continously, always good natured. Gary
calls us Mr and Mrs Bickerson with good reason; adds to the enjoyment and keeps
everybody jovial.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;">
</span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></span></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">The buffet we had this
evening was</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> something
to behold. We are all a bit tired of buffets but this one was outstanding. </span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: initial;">
</span>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="line-height: initial;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
58, Mon Mar 13th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Westin
Soma Bay, Hurghada, 0 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A
relax day at this first class hotel with almost no one here, such a shame. Tom,
Gary, Mac and I had a great game on their Gary Player course (had an honest 91)
and then lunch, beers a quick rest and out for a snorkel. Quite a few of the
guys are licensed divers; the snorkeling is world class amongst the multi
coloured coral and even more multi coloured fish species in about 80 degree
quite salty water. Fun to say I have snorkeled in the Red Sea!</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK1hyphenhyphenaC4EPhkrY_mQro2hnXxKSIv2Vh2r9GXOqCB3kA6k633p7p5VtDwNN_sz8Nj45E4rsKjWE9SbT3JqpuDD4VZHWJSPkBCn6UF2r9pbJ1V0t920m-QB0MM3xeSPUJ8UO0IhqP-TZhmRX/s1600/missive103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK1hyphenhyphenaC4EPhkrY_mQro2hnXxKSIv2Vh2r9GXOqCB3kA6k633p7p5VtDwNN_sz8Nj45E4rsKjWE9SbT3JqpuDD4VZHWJSPkBCn6UF2r9pbJ1V0t920m-QB0MM3xeSPUJ8UO0IhqP-TZhmRX/s1600/missive103.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8pO_sx1-xEdkj-0G8n8sPklXNf_vT0RTDeMJcKTvWrxq6BPjI25v-KJKAsojybdRJ1jiytjQI5UUKlVGBY3_B5iI4oA5qtJhWpxuXHr8RfziHgjSenMeUGo__GMbTgiyOxSeAUXn-e4-/s1600/missive104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO8pO_sx1-xEdkj-0G8n8sPklXNf_vT0RTDeMJcKTvWrxq6BPjI25v-KJKAsojybdRJ1jiytjQI5UUKlVGBY3_B5iI4oA5qtJhWpxuXHr8RfziHgjSenMeUGo__GMbTgiyOxSeAUXn-e4-/s1600/missive104.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
59, Tue, Mar 14th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Westin
Soma Bay to Mövenpick Resort, El Sokhna, 367 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Ho
hum day on a ho hum road made more interesting by heavy winds; I stopped for a
pee along the way, looked down and the stuff was landing 6 feet away!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
Red Sea was a beautiful turquoise whipped up by lots of white caps in the wind.
In the distance I could see Saudi Arabia about 30 miles away, as close as I
want to be; there were also lots of small gas rigs out there hooked up and
doing their thing.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">As
mentioned Egypt is mostly desert (94%) and today's route even though by the
seaside for the most part was all sand, desert and rocky hills, pretty boring.
Then, as we closed in on our destination of El Sockna </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">we were suddenly in what I will call Egyptian
Riviera country. There were at least 50 plus resorts cheek to jowl and all in
various stages of completion, literally thousands of doors. I found out later
that most of these places are presold and service weekend demand from Cairo
about 100 miles away.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">The highlight of my day
was a water ski on the Red Sea. This has been on my mind for a week or so and I
have been on the lookout for a ski boat as unlikely as that sounds in this part
of the world. Arriving at this splendid spot this aft I made my way down to the
infinity pool by the beach and lo and behold there is an inflatable with a 90
on it and a set of crappy skiis behind the bar; for $10 plus tip I got in a 20
minute run, got the single ski dipsy doodling a bit and had a blast in their
salty turquoise ocean!</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KmIPKRScBhyPZZkz48GHKaqIe2SjkvpUkUsk5SlPjgZRA7CAVghFXgHpfygqM0eXE2emRwx1nkYU3UEORv6oGKP4p7EIL1fAzPlbF4O33p8z5xhoizlRNZ-G7zd7kBVOR_E6V9xRx2Pk/s1600/missive105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KmIPKRScBhyPZZkz48GHKaqIe2SjkvpUkUsk5SlPjgZRA7CAVghFXgHpfygqM0eXE2emRwx1nkYU3UEORv6oGKP4p7EIL1fAzPlbF4O33p8z5xhoizlRNZ-G7zd7kBVOR_E6V9xRx2Pk/s1600/missive105.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">The 64 gig memory card in
my camera now has 3644 photos on it 194 short videos and I have used up 43
gigs- lots of work to cull out the crappy stuff on return home although I have
been doing some of that enroute; hope there is some half decent stuff left over.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
60, Wed, Mar 15th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mövenpick
Resort, El Sokhna to Mena House, Giza, 147 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Another
police escort; we have not been without their supervisory help since Aswan.
This one was helpful because the traffic coming in to Cairo was pretty bad and
the highway signage was almost impossible to read although we were on GPS
headings which can sometimes be a bit tricky with road construction etc. The
drivers love to see how close they can crowd you, pretty bad manners really.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span></div>
</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">
</span></div>
</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
147 km trip was uneventful and here we are at the famous Mena House at
the foot of the pyramids, pretty neat actually! I just did my last fuel fill up
and my bike reads 20585 with 212 km to go to leave it at the container in
Alexandria day after tomorrow- almost exactly 13,000 km.</span></div>
</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-EeGh-T23syfi5qJjpimOhQzl3Iint-bwRJjqV8FmbWJHRYokV-tjGep_8uT_oogfw8K2cqa0zecbLfiboLS-URh54Jur6LvWVEV3uxgAPji9sqz_ya53nLk0Hjm_ANxT1YsSJB2Tf94/s1600/missive106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ-EeGh-T23syfi5qJjpimOhQzl3Iint-bwRJjqV8FmbWJHRYokV-tjGep_8uT_oogfw8K2cqa0zecbLfiboLS-URh54Jur6LvWVEV3uxgAPji9sqz_ya53nLk0Hjm_ANxT1YsSJB2Tf94/s1600/missive106.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Very
neat opportunity arranged by Omar's connections to get us up close to the Giza
pyramids. Our hotel right next door is spectacular, an old castle and the
reception area is equally so; we met there at 1 pm suited up and ready to go.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Surrounded
by police detail, most speak great english</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">and
at our many stops I am at the front handing out little Canadian flag pins
(this has worked well even better than the soccer balls because there are so
many more opportunities- key is for me to put it on too). Many are Captains and
Majors, all well armed and chatty; they are having a ball because it is a
significant departure to their usual routine and they all oogle our bikes; one
guy says he is going to buy them all.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Finally we get the go
ahead to proceed but we are not in any hurry because after all, we are up very
close and personal to perhaps the most famous site in the world; on top of
that, the temperature is perfect and there are scads of people (all manners of
dress) and activity, camels crapping, horses peeing, great huge blocks of
stone piled high to what looks like the sky.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Horns and sirens blaring
we head up the dusty, dirt road to get in behind where the hoi paloi cannot go.
I feel shivers as we proceed because it is all a bit surreal.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We get to the chosen sight
(where a squash court was erected years ago for tournaments but has since been
removed- shades of Hosni Mubarak who loved to play?) and we get a good half
hour to take photos. What an incredible thrill!!!</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi341DBeMkyWIQbGZ5rGcp-3TwLPOPD_MxtI0ovPeN-7l16m95XGMyFpVrvlmnHsVTOwox0deLhLIFI1nc77ugMi82SDP_MkzylzziWdJjTPjPN7rUpdAwkn7nT7AX6D_k8wmZlVuNhNd1l/s1600/missive107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi341DBeMkyWIQbGZ5rGcp-3TwLPOPD_MxtI0ovPeN-7l16m95XGMyFpVrvlmnHsVTOwox0deLhLIFI1nc77ugMi82SDP_MkzylzziWdJjTPjPN7rUpdAwkn7nT7AX6D_k8wmZlVuNhNd1l/s1600/missive107.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AvhtulWkVNhtKyhL2xzlJ7aivjU_SVlT3zJ5oGT72RpibRPQ4Lv5C3A9Hi_7vdGfnYCVZTyiHB7x_z6e1VN2hZp4HI5XHKtgDvRv_gNA4ll_LK5_VXrN-9Wzr-KtvZ4DrE839huXXGdR/s1600/missive108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AvhtulWkVNhtKyhL2xzlJ7aivjU_SVlT3zJ5oGT72RpibRPQ4Lv5C3A9Hi_7vdGfnYCVZTyiHB7x_z6e1VN2hZp4HI5XHKtgDvRv_gNA4ll_LK5_VXrN-9Wzr-KtvZ4DrE839huXXGdR/s1600/missive108.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="line-height: initial;"></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Later Helge had us working
through some quite serious downhill sand so he could get a few videos of us in
motion. I was half thinking it would be a bit ironic after 14,000 km of riding
to have someone dump a bike right in front of the pyramids but no one did.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-fm_T7FZD9ZQHKrU_f3dBCe01o5Kd_be4JDjFWYvbRQgLaExzDFlwt9eldAauyHx2iO9n85VIZFqN4u6mqGyFTNK0_9Qk4Sq8uTzdPtbUTnPOsQO_nB_kfdjzuCk6mUmC35f4C8oVfjNz/s1600/missive109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-fm_T7FZD9ZQHKrU_f3dBCe01o5Kd_be4JDjFWYvbRQgLaExzDFlwt9eldAauyHx2iO9n85VIZFqN4u6mqGyFTNK0_9Qk4Sq8uTzdPtbUTnPOsQO_nB_kfdjzuCk6mUmC35f4C8oVfjNz/s1600/missive109.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">I had a chance to meet
someone quite important at the Canadian consular office who by coincidence was
visiting the hotel with family from Canada. I have been very, very curios about
all of the police supervision of our trip since Aswan. His comments:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-he is not allowed to
travel alone south of Luxor for security reasons; also quite a few less
touristy but important Egyptian sights are off limits to him</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-there is more unrest
going on behind the scenes than we would know about</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-when the pound floated
from a fixed rate of 6 to the dollar it settled at 16 which caused huge
economic hardship for people, still is and that makes people more desperate </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-the government is
paranoid about visitor protection because tourism is their number one industry
and it is only now coming back (also, way too much undeserved bad press)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-and key, he thinks that
when the American embassy found out about this trip from the south to north of
Egypt and given their penchant for equal security concerns and close scrutiny
of things that they had a chat with their Egyptian counterparts and said let's
watch out for these guys enroute (sounds credible to me because we stick out
like sore thumbs in more ways than one).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We had a nice dinner back
at the hotel which I invited my guide Souzy to; some of our guys are staying
longer and need help with purchases so they will be moving to the Marriot at
Zamalack and getting looked after by Souzy.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
61, Thur, Mar 16th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mena
House Hotel, Giza, 0 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Up
at 4:30 am for a 200 km journey in a cramped mini bus to Alexandria (approx.
population 6-8 mm), Helge's orders; we need ALL of our paperwork so that the
powers that be can scrutinize everything before the bikes get shipped. This is
all a good idea because we do not want to have any surprises when we arrive to
the container port on Saturday. Here is a brief description of the f</span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">orth and back process (Norwegian term) as I
understand it:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-go
to the shipping office in downtown Alexandria, wait, go to the passport office
(so we can become short term residents to gain access to the port), wait some
more, go to the notary for the shipping company to take possession of
bikes through power of attorney, wait some more, go back to shipping office to
finish dotting i's and crossing t's. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In
the notary office it's a beehive of comings and goings, many people most in
traditional dress; as I write Dean is observing the inefficiency of o</span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">ne copier for 7 desks, </span><span style="line-height: initial;">very slow computers compounded by two fingered
typing and each person having to be notarized singly instead of all of us in
one go; our guy with the Heckler Koch hidden under his jacket is trying to
speed things along; Helge thinks that the police presence is a big help in all
of the paper processing.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We arrived Alexandria at
8:30 am and finished the whole deal by 2:30 so we are all pleased to have it
completed. Despite 6 hours of rigmarole I had fun observing typical Egyptian
life fighting the impracticalities of the bureaucracy. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
will speed things up when we get to the container port Saturday morning again
under police escort. It is 15 km of driving once we are inside this huge area
to actually get to our final loading and shipping area.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We were all glad 13
cramped hours later to arrive back at Mena House for a great Indian cuisine at
one of their many restaurants.</span></span></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
62, Fri, Mar 17th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mena
House Hotel, Giza, 0 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Busy
day visiting pyramids and back to the museum one more time. We have always had
excellent guides and Ramez was no exception; way too much to communicate so
will provide the following overview:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-until
the Eiffel Tower was built (174 metres) the largest of the nine pyramids </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">was
the tallest structure in the world at 147 metres; it was built 4400 years ago
and is exactly 250 metres around each of the four sides making it one kilometre
in total</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-there
are between 1.6 and 2 million stones with the ones at the bottom being 4-7 tons
and the top 250 kg; it is thought that it was built using a spiral staircase
approach</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-all
the pyramids were completely smooth all the way to the top; the big guy had 9
metres of solid gold capping at the top so the sun could reflect on the kingdom
all the way to Jordan and Morocco</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-when
the Arabs arrived they took all of the casings off to build fortresses on the
other side of the Nile</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-no
slaves were employed in this process; it was all local craftsmen 300,000 per
day on the job and it took 21 years to build</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-
there are many small tunnels all through the pyramid to contain mummies and
tombs for the various family members; they used copper mirrors cleverly to
reflect light inside so that workers could have some visibility </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-we
took a camel and horse and buggy ride out into the desert for a panoramic view
and photo ops</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-right
adjacent to this area is the huge Sphinx carved from a block of stone right in
place 4350 years ago to act as a guardian for the pyramids; it has the body of
a lion to signify strength and the head of a man to signify wisdom and is
considered to be one of the most important images in Egypt</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
could go on and on about this great taking place</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0crSBc061hiiP2szAZiNPx3CeJj6f6LQ9OJ0xGzxMT39aLZjWtLfyUPOmiYqNO_-L6V77mhg5YzWXni08V_bRBRtU2CMebIZnEIA2GxVH0xxvA-X7ZdrPUMkprrFfRcuBl-3Heyi7Y4fN/s1600/missive110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0crSBc061hiiP2szAZiNPx3CeJj6f6LQ9OJ0xGzxMT39aLZjWtLfyUPOmiYqNO_-L6V77mhg5YzWXni08V_bRBRtU2CMebIZnEIA2GxVH0xxvA-X7ZdrPUMkprrFfRcuBl-3Heyi7Y4fN/s1600/missive110.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="line-height: initial;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
</span></span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In
the afternoon we finished off with another tour of the museum which needs way
more time than I have given it. There are 250,000 pieces in this building so
tons to learn about. I paid extra to go in and see the 'mummie' room which was
really worth it. How were these ancient humans preserved in such good form with
the techniques they had all those years ago?</span></div>
</span></span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="line-height: initial;">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Tonight
we had our farewell dinner which is always quite an event and rather emotional.
Everyone spoke eloquently and with emotion about the great time we had together
over these past months and of course, Helge came in for a lot of well deserved
accolades for his great leadership along the way.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
63, Sat, Mar 18th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mena
House Hotel to Alexandria, 212 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Clutches
out at 5:30 am for the highway journey to Alexandria; windy morning, cold and
lots of traffic in this city to get to our shipping destination uneventfully.
Lots of high fives all around and all glad to be here. Unfortunately a big
negative is the time delay with the port authorities, just unbelievable.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It
is time to get this last Missive out to my readers and here are some closing
thoughts:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
</span>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I have been thinking about how
to fittingly end this most marvelous of adventures. I have not felt </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">homesick since leaving on
January 10th but all good things have to end at some point. Words cannot
express the emotions, the sheer diversity of the continent, it's people, it's
customs and culture, it's countryside and it's multiple languages and music is
something to treasure forever through photos, a few videos and this story.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
</span>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">It is not an exaggeration to
say that this has been the most eventful, exciting and intense two months of my
life and maybe the most enjoyable. How does that come about at 68 years of age?</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">One of my best buddies wondered
how many pots I could be cooked in along the way; others were just as cautious
both verbally and with unspoken eye contact. Frankly I wondered a bit too as my
imagination sometimes got the better of me.<span style="line-height: initial;"></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">It was all for naught. Africa
is an amazing, amazing place full of its own complexities just like our world
but mostly very caring, friendly people, people always glad to see and help us
and have us enjoy a bit of what is theirs.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I looked up the dictionary
definition of adventure: an unusual and exciting, typically hazardous,
experience or activity. Synonyms: exploit, escapade, deed, feat, experience;
that pretty much sums up my trip.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">I will especially miss our
group of comrades and minders. From Andy and Harry at the beginning to Simon in
the middle, Omar at the end and others too numerous to mention we have been
very well looked after, thanks a lot guys!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Our group of 10 has jelled very
well together and enjoyed experiences and memories we will not soon forget. It
is just unfortunate that our bonding process is over at least for now.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Finishing off with Ethiopia and
Egypt could not be more fitting. These are two very large countries in terms of
size and population. Their complexities, beauty and history have been
described. I am not saying they are the best of the ten just they just left the
greatest impression.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">In closing, it seems like a
good idea to consider signing up for Helge's South America tour next January.
If it lives up to this adventure then I will be that much wiser about a part of
the world I know little about.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Augustine of Hippo who lived in
the period 400 AD said long ago:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The
world is a book and those that do not travel read only one page. So true!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Thanks for reading along and
adios until next time, NG<br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></span></div>
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<br />Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-12014495922841763192017-03-11T22:33:00.000-08:002017-03-21T19:32:37.336-07:00Missive #8, Day 49 Sat, Mar 4th to Fri, Mar 10th<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="color: black;">We are now in this amazing
place called Luxor which will be commented on in the next (and last!) missive</span>.</span> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 49, Sat Mar 4th,
New Plan (Day 3 of 6)</span><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Up
at 1:15 am to prepare for 3 hour and 40 minute flight to Cairo leaving at 4:15
am, presently at airport lounge.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
think Ethiopia has to be my favourite country to date; the people, the food,
the scenery, the sheer volume of humanity and animal activity, there is no
place like it. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
people: did not have a bad vibe anywhere, all so friendly, inquisitive, trying
hard for the most part, conversant in English or at least making a good
attempt, peaceful, not too aggressive, look to be doing okay with not very much
to be okay with, just a pleasure to associate with especially service people in
the tourist business where we stayed etc., gas station clientele and the like.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
food: their soups are to die for especially lentil, their fish is as good or
better than home, salads imaginative, table service excellent, breakfasts
with lots of fruit and omlettes a staple for all of us, coffee good but for the
most part needed hot milk and sugar.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
scenery: one step off spectacular, picture the best parts of the Coquihalla
around every corner at least in the mountains, tons to look at especially
people and animals (you better look at the animals otherwise you will be
dead!), majestic peaks and valleys to soak up on tight turns up and down.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
activity: by traffic I do not mean trucks and cars on the road, far from it, I
mean animals and people in that order almost overwhelming; get used to it, slow
down, enjoy the chaos for what it is because there will be nowhere else in the
world with this congestion; the villages, literally hundreds maybe thousands a
sea of vibrancy and goings on; I often wondered even in the middle of nowhere,
just where was all of this movement goint to and from?</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So
here I am missing my gang, no one to needle or be needled by! Our trip will be
over in two weeks and everyone will be going their separate ways so it will be
a big adjustment and change to get used to. I am looking forward to going home
sure but it will seem like a bit of a let down after all of our excitement on
an almost daily basis since we left almost two months ago. Being on a
motorcycle every single day (actually with well positioned breaks) is exciting
in its own way but add on a Cape to Cairo junket makes it a serious adventure
as you have been reading.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Helge
needs to be complemented for his aplomb and grace under fire. Aaron, Mac, Tom
and myself have put him through his paces and challenged his resources and
patience. Let me tell you about Mac: last Sunday 26th on the way in to Lalibela
there was a bunch of kids playing on a bridge between dirt roads, a pretty hot
and dusty place, dry creek bed (this being the dry season anyway). They looked
a bit threatening so Helge stopped to confront them. They scattered like flies.
Mac was right behind and one girl about 12 got caught under his motorbike going
by this time at very slow speed; no harm done luckily but it was reported to
the police who showed up at our hotel; three hours in the local station and
the chief shows up and says there are written and unwritten rules, this is an
unwritten one, you owe us 500 bucks to pay off the kid (and us by definition).
Mac who wasn't really at fault (I was right behind him) ended up paying 300 but
it was a problem that Helge really did not need to have surface and of course
it could have been much more serious. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I am
now on Egyptian Air and suddenly realize that I am now leaving Black Africa
and moving in to Arab Africa; quite a change particularly the language
difference, a bit spooky actually! </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QyuKOAfH5n13Fu0gWtW8U1ujtWNAlNpn539yC3kopVaEDgFj6Iw0KHl2BwtguLRp69vUz2fPGs6CCUVmgLzGKJR9RLJ95sO7RBr1q0wnyDYz0Wqs24FySgZ0xp_BbJrniJbEC9V7Q7Ld/s1600/miss8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QyuKOAfH5n13Fu0gWtW8U1ujtWNAlNpn539yC3kopVaEDgFj6Iw0KHl2BwtguLRp69vUz2fPGs6CCUVmgLzGKJR9RLJ95sO7RBr1q0wnyDYz0Wqs24FySgZ0xp_BbJrniJbEC9V7Q7Ld/s1600/miss8a.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Karma
must be on my side! I meet this nice Muslim clad woman near the exit of the
baggage area and she takes me to the Egyptian tourist office where I meet
Ahmed the branch manager; a little skeptical at first, I am soon at ease.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">He
has me set up with a driver into town and a meeting this afternoon at 1 pm with
Souzy who will be my guide for today and tomorrow. She is apparently excellent
and all is prepaid for $305 so will see if I get my money's worth.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Speaking
of money's worth and being of the frugal persuasion I found via Trip Advisor
and Expedia the Marriot and Omar Khayyan Casino Hotel in the Zamalek area for
$129. The best price elsewhere was $238 so I am a ahead of the game so far.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
exchange rate is £16 to the US dollar; a few years back it was £6.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
Marriot right here on the banks of the Nile in the Zamalek area of town is a
perfect choice; the room is spacious with a nice view of the river and the
service is over the top, lucky me!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7bJjlM69DvFtr1ugpV87mL88dAAmgDf4XTWmIVJbWOq2Q2aE3dTFNcQdxZet3Nc_xAwq1oNJj4LXnKVNegrorVOkbqAfIyU4DyhvFaLeXNF-itSXMOuuilZ6QU9uo54Y9ILqiDm-2H4m/s1600/miss8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7bJjlM69DvFtr1ugpV87mL88dAAmgDf4XTWmIVJbWOq2Q2aE3dTFNcQdxZet3Nc_xAwq1oNJj4LXnKVNegrorVOkbqAfIyU4DyhvFaLeXNF-itSXMOuuilZ6QU9uo54Y9ILqiDm-2H4m/s1600/miss8b.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Souzy
picks up pretty tired Nick and off we go to the Egyptian Museum one of THE
most famous museums in the world. It was conceived and designed by a Frenchman
between 1899 and 1901 to collect and house as many of the spread out, ancient
Egyptian treasures as possible. It has an outside look of the Louvre although
considerably smaller.</span></div>
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</div>
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</div>
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</div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">You
have to firstly get your head around just how OLD everything is in this place.
The Mayan ruins are 2000 BC but some of this stuff is well over 3000 BC; the
complexity of the statues and pieces which you can reach out and touch is
stunning.</span></div>
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</div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Souzy
is full of detail especially for this tired mind but I cannot help but marvel
at what the Pharaohs achieved over such millennial as follows:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-pre
332 BC Pharaohs ruled for approx 3,000 yrs, set themselves up as gods really</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-332
BC Alexander the Great came and ruled for only a very short time, died and one
of his generals (Bartholomew) took over until 30 BC</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-30
BC to 641 AD Romans</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-641-1952
Islamic rule mostly by Turks (King Farouk 1936-52) when it became a republic
(Nassaer, Sadat, Mubarek 1980-2010, Morsi, Sisi).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Details
of this amazing place can be googled but the most interesting exhibit had to be
the King Tut one (circa 1300 BC). Discovered as recently as 1922 by British
archaeologist Howard Carter it contains approx 5,000 priceless items with one
being an11.6 kg exact mask of pure gold placed over the king when he died at19
(having been appointed aged 9).</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
then went to an interesting essence outlet supported by quite a large family
who has factories making the many varieties. Next door was a government outlet
showing how paper was first made out of papyrus starting 3,000 years ago.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Souzy
and I finished off our day with an evening dinner cruise on the Nile. It was
full, lively with entertainment and a good way to complete a rather long day.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Suzie
is a Christian (10%), 28, unmarried and loves her job. Her father is a
cardiologist, mother a tax collector and she has a 22 year old brother studying
medicine. She is very supportive of what Sisi is trying to accomplish
and did not like Obama's treatment of Egypt during his two terms. She says that
the media as usual way over blows things and scares people away. Tourism is
back somewhat and never should have gone away as there is so much to see and do
in this safe country. She feels that Egyptians are inherently peaceful people
and that the tiny number of crazies make it bad for everyone. By the way, she
hates her arab language but it is an obvious necessity; her original language
and hieroglyphics were taken away from her by the Islamists starting way
back in 641.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Last detail, population
approaching 100 mm with 30 mm in Cairo.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 50, Sun, Mar 5th New
Plan (Day 4 of 6)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Another busy day under
Souzy Tadros's supervision; she has a bachelor's in Egyptology from the U. of
Cairo, really knows her stuff and loves what she does which easily comes
across in her enthusiasm.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">How Egypt got its name;
was spelt Kmt and pronounced Kemit which means black land because of the
colour of the clay of the Nile; the Greeks changed it to Kpt or Kiptic or
Coptic to conform to their alphabet; the Romans then changed it to Gpt which
meant Egyptus in latin hence Egypt.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Coptic refers to Egyptian
orthodox christianity which uses similar mythology to the Greek and Russian
versions. Orthodox means 'the old one' emanating from Jesus and pre-dates
Catholicism which sought to control everything.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Today is Sunday which is a
work day here (Friday and Saturday are their weekends). Christians celebrate
mass on Sundays and are expected to come to work by 10 am whereas the regular
working hours are 9-5 like elsewhere.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I am not much of a church
touring person but I was really struck by our visitations today. We went to a
Jewish synagogue, a mosque and an old church all from the 4th century which is
one helluva long time ago when you really think about it; all were in almost
perfect preservation in the very oldest part of old Cairo, kind of special.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We finished off the day
with a late lunch in a town square adjacent to the local market which we
visited later; thanks to Souzy I took the plunge, the cuisine was so tasty and
different to anything I had ever seen or tasted before I had to eat more than
my share it was that good. It was an eye opener to sit there smoking my hookah
pipe and watch the busy world go by; must have been there close to 2 hours
taking in the sights.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6TKKbUCO-0NDZErLTYjBLUyRp6514ApEC1k7EQ7fpZNrZec6LT82UnKLAwW5d_WkJzREO_aZPNciX1je5JUmoUJg0O3k2zCtQEZy-M9mxNnrMkWYvOKy3thFQQIehQ0tg3pyE7H6E1Zz/s1600/miss8f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6TKKbUCO-0NDZErLTYjBLUyRp6514ApEC1k7EQ7fpZNrZec6LT82UnKLAwW5d_WkJzREO_aZPNciX1je5JUmoUJg0O3k2zCtQEZy-M9mxNnrMkWYvOKy3thFQQIehQ0tg3pyE7H6E1Zz/s1600/miss8f.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">The guys selling in the
market are pretty good; I walk by one guy, Sir, what would you like to buy,
nothing, I have that too, what colour would you like?</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaeJm2PPhfgtHiB8Z6WUQhVQkJxgKEwQyDKytXHnkuGfG2l1fkIddN63mnfhvJmQHEEtQOK_Utoe4AnIepjYVnruFouwbN8_QCAdANVBFrivLZQJtPH5ofMv-h_XznigJXqHI03MNuVeFZ/s1600/miss8g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaeJm2PPhfgtHiB8Z6WUQhVQkJxgKEwQyDKytXHnkuGfG2l1fkIddN63mnfhvJmQHEEtQOK_Utoe4AnIepjYVnruFouwbN8_QCAdANVBFrivLZQJtPH5ofMv-h_XznigJXqHI03MNuVeFZ/s1600/miss8g.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">While there there has been
some international concerns and advisories about travel to Egypt these have
been vastly over blown by the media and foreign embassy travel advisories
according to Souzy. Egyptian tourism suffered terribly but is making a come back
to where it was; from what I can see although there is a lot of obvious but not
threatening security everywhere I never once felt anything but open arms of
welcome from all of the locals. Egyptians have always been a peaceful non
violent bunch, it is just a few bad guys that wreck it for everyone else.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I do think however that
the best way to enjoy this amazing country is with an organized tour guide and
driver and it is relatively cheap. Tonight we went out to Giza for a one hour
sound and light show. Tomorrow my driver Maher picks me up at 5 am for the
half hour trip out to the airport- all this for $305 is about the best bargain
anyone could hope for!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">My short stay in Cairo has
been amazing in the way all of the Egyptian people have embraced me; I feel so
comfortable in this big, organized, beautiful and ancient place; I am sure
there are pockets where you might be best to stay away from as in any place but
I have felt right at home at all times. Let's hope the rest of the visit down
south is the same way!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 51, Mon, Mar 6th New
Plan (Day 5 of 6)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">In my hotel travels I have
never come across service levels quite like the Marriot in Zamalek. Their
courtesy, efficiency, efforts to please and overall pleasant demeanour is
something to behold and I have made a comment to Trip Advisor accordingly.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Cairo itself for a big
town is a model of efficiency and order as far as I could tell. It is clean,
traffic moves reasonably well (except for rush hour), english is prevalent and
everyone seems interested in doing a great job of serving the visitor.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Up at 4:30 for a 5 am pick
up and airport arrival at 5:30 for a 7:30 am departure to Abu Simbel with a
changeover in Aswan.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Uneventful flight south
but you always have some butterflies when you absolutely HAVE to make
everything work in a foreign country. There was no room for error as this was
the first and only flight available to Abu Simbel. Omar will be arriving with
his driver tonight and first thing tomorrow morning we head south to meet the
gang. The tricky part might be explaining why I am on one side of the border
and my bike is on the other so we shall see.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I am sitting by a very
nice pool in the shade at a 'B' level place called the Nefertari Abu Simbel
relaxing (finally!) and catching up on some reading and work if you can call it
that.</span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day 52, Tue, Mar 7th New
Plan (Day 6 of 6)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I met Omar our guide and
Ackmed our driver last night, nice guys and pretty much chain smokers. We went
in to the small Abu Simbel village for them to eat so had a chance to kick
around with some locals. Omar is from Alexandria, Ackmed is from Cairo and they
drove down here in their older model Toyota Landcruiser. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSunbeS5S_JFmqDXjca_Epx65PuI32Tdbn7VKx91J85X7DJ9_C3qGyBkwgAiUJtpwlvqiZbZGSBYG5UpQOCZvaZrL4nGK-2PfYcgNPOUxe1KoCWpCGC6p3nMx-OBZcY41VDf3j9MCEd1h/s1600/miss8i.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSSunbeS5S_JFmqDXjca_Epx65PuI32Tdbn7VKx91J85X7DJ9_C3qGyBkwgAiUJtpwlvqiZbZGSBYG5UpQOCZvaZrL4nGK-2PfYcgNPOUxe1KoCWpCGC6p3nMx-OBZcY41VDf3j9MCEd1h/s1600/miss8i.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">They came via the desert
eastern route which would have been our preferred direction of travel too but
for security reasons this was nixed by the authorities. They both said it was
no problem whatsoever. </span><span style="line-height: initial;">Omar is a
bedouin way back when and carries a 9 mm Gloc with him but has never had
occasion to use it.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Today we got our way the
short distance to the ferry to cross Lake Nasser, about a one hour ride; lots
of folks on board wanting to practice their english so I was kept pleasantly
busy. One old guy lamented the flooding of 45 Nubian villages in the early
1970's by Nasser when the Aswan Dam was completed.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejL8C2jXeywhC1k9r63ODslDLnTq9pMR6jOs-PY4jWPSWtCgLnPnvubnU_kjky8jS9FXuYFJYm24ha7OI5haczE0fF-OGc-wfcUC1QxVq-1CcqPNjHOvKhTDDdbBsLGg_edn3KfW2Igma/s1600/miss8j.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejL8C2jXeywhC1k9r63ODslDLnTq9pMR6jOs-PY4jWPSWtCgLnPnvubnU_kjky8jS9FXuYFJYm24ha7OI5haczE0fF-OGc-wfcUC1QxVq-1CcqPNjHOvKhTDDdbBsLGg_edn3KfW2Igma/s1600/miss8j.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Before the ferry ride we
hooked up with 'the very famous' Gamal who will be our 'fixer' at the border.
This will be the most time consuming, bureaucratic expensive border of them
all; true British paperwork carried to another level. Gamal's cost according to
Helge is $170 per person so you can imaging the payoffs to get our stuff to the
top of the pile and a lot of intermediate steps along the way so everyone at
the trough gets looked after, ridiculous I say.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKhEh2BzSkFy2zMidfS66pVFnnaqz6g_Lp3dRaFs5PjAOoq6r7m_ht-Tx848pKbq4FncPBRLYVNp8XL1qtuoFIrL8whbTN6dx8g6LsI5h1jmkeoVE7BKWHtjIhFw36bv9WxcMNXFoDfKJH/s1600/miss8k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKhEh2BzSkFy2zMidfS66pVFnnaqz6g_Lp3dRaFs5PjAOoq6r7m_ht-Tx848pKbq4FncPBRLYVNp8XL1qtuoFIrL8whbTN6dx8g6LsI5h1jmkeoVE7BKWHtjIhFw36bv9WxcMNXFoDfKJH/s1600/miss8k.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">I was excited to get back
with my group, lots of hugs and hi-5s. It sounds like if there was one country
to miss it was Sudan; the people are incredibly nice I heard, over the top nice
and share everything and want zero in return. The big problem is the backwardness,
their attitude towards women (Debbie experienced slights daily) and the
garbage; apparently there is so much plastic garbage piled all over the place
you cannot drive around it you have to drive through it. The food was okay but
some of the hotels were awful- washrooms down the hall, no towels, no toilet
paper, missing toilet seats, cock roaches finding their way into luggage, etc.
etc.; all of this and no booze to sooth the nerves and it was a good miss;
should be a good party tonight!</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXrUkukZ1giSIj-s7BPFBrEo0DBRbhPIMBNlNaI3lGacFFKw3SSGJ48WBwFAukQ6yz2QoIxzqs0eFZibNDikWgT22NXi4HUaU-CE_Y9PbcvRWguyxGSj58whrx-qmaosDEsCTeYS8lpC6t/s1600/miss8l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXrUkukZ1giSIj-s7BPFBrEo0DBRbhPIMBNlNaI3lGacFFKw3SSGJ48WBwFAukQ6yz2QoIxzqs0eFZibNDikWgT22NXi4HUaU-CE_Y9PbcvRWguyxGSj58whrx-qmaosDEsCTeYS8lpC6t/s1600/miss8l.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">One early observation,
everyone chain smokes, the men more than the women; it costs $2 per pack which
for them is expensive. Oamar is two packs per day Ackmed is one.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I arrived at the border at
about 10 am and it took us 4 hours to get through the Egyptian side; the others
took about 2 hours to get through the Sudan side so it was a longish day for
them. We returned via the ferry to our hotel for a nice swim.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 53, Wed, March 8th,
Nefertari Abu Simbel Hotel, 0 Km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We had a good dinner last
night with the alcohol flowing freely and a day off from the bikes today. Again
I heard chapter and verse about the Sudan junket and saw a bunch of photos; it
was a good miss even though it cost a few thou to catch up and there were some
anxious moments!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I am officially back with
the gang and as the lone Canadian the mud is flowing fast and furious; no
problem as I can handle the onslaught and dish it out just fine!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Pretty easy day; breakfast
7:30 am then off to see a wonderful set of temples within walking distance of
our hotel. In the 1960's Nasser flooded what became the single biggest man made
lake in the world as part of the plan to create the Aswan Dam. Named after him,
it is 500 km long and up to 170 m deep in the middle. Part of the problem apart
from the desecration of so many Nubian villages was the potential destruction
of 14 very important temples built by Pharoah Ramses and others 3300 years ago
in about 1280 BC. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSf-H7BQnPCqc8WajL0qVaOSwJZwG1ZNmWXtTRztba5nvOehyphenhyphenM7JGz473eC0Ai63EPueLkftoqcu2Yn79KICUHniWEzKr44z0c1_c3PIoldr0_5kaoKWNKf7pHwlxq1OCqIzzbWdl3nIm/s1600/miss8m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSf-H7BQnPCqc8WajL0qVaOSwJZwG1ZNmWXtTRztba5nvOehyphenhyphenM7JGz473eC0Ai63EPueLkftoqcu2Yn79KICUHniWEzKr44z0c1_c3PIoldr0_5kaoKWNKf7pHwlxq1OCqIzzbWdl3nIm/s1600/miss8m.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Unesco was asked to get
involved and with significant German engineering, the help of 5 international
companies and archaeological assistance, $36 mm was spent between 1964-68 to
move the two most important ones 66 m higher and 200 m back from this new lake.
They used bull dozers, cranes, heavy saws and meticulous numbering of
1041 huge blocks of sandstone (some of them up to 7 tons) to create this huge
success for all the world to see and enjoy (4 of the 14 are in NY, Holland,
Italy and France and the others are elsewhere in the country).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The Nile at 6,800 km is
the longest river in the world along with the Amazon; it runs through 10
country's and the lake can move up and down approx. 10 metres even though there
is no rain in these parts.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">This area is far to the
south of where the Pharaohs wanted to be (600 km south of Luxor) but it
contained most of the gold they so treasured for their activities;
therefore, they had to conquer the area to extract the resource.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Ramses III was the man to
do it and he was an extraordinary guy; the third of 11 Ramses he lived to 97
had 34 wives and 150 kids. He set himself up as an all powerful god in direct
competition with the powerful priests of the day and accomplished a lot in his long
life including these incredible temples for all to enjoy even today.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">When you walk through this
place you wonder just how the experts were able to interpret all of the
complicated art work on the walls. In 1789 the Rosetta Stone was discovered
east of Alexandria in a town called Rashid by a Frenchman, Monsieur
Champlian (sp?).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The Rosetta Stone
which resides in the British Museum in London was the communication key to the
whole vast puzzle. I</span><span style="line-height: initial;">t was written in 3
languages, coptic, hieroglyphics and dumotic (sp?) and went a long way towards
allowing us to understand the complicated Egyptian society of so long ago.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The 33rd Pharaoh
Bartholomew lived during the Greek-Roman time and gave the world this gift as a
cross referencing system; it might be written in cartouche but I am sure I have
some of this wrong as the guide was a bit hard to follow!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Unfortunately international
visitations to this area have fallen on hard time since the Arab Spring and
Tahir Square 5 years ago. In those days Abu Simbel would enjoy 5-6,000 visitors
per day. Now they get 5-600; too bad because it is a spectacular place.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Tomorrow Aswan and then
more delights in Luxor.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 54, Thur, Mar 9th, 284
km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Nefertari Abu Simbel
Hotel to Helnan Aswan Hotel, Aswan</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-rGWDtgd_M7MS74yxMXNhyphenhyphenItkTaWQAqg7wYi7EuHf4-nIm5FyGhFhJtfQAO1FPsK1YRC7panY2rtSOIjttOIiy4M2SGqSHQjFN8C3mZD1oVg9SMG4SSwqcOuAM5VWWU1aGsQABNcfKxch/s1600/miss8n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-rGWDtgd_M7MS74yxMXNhyphenhyphenItkTaWQAqg7wYi7EuHf4-nIm5FyGhFhJtfQAO1FPsK1YRC7panY2rtSOIjttOIiy4M2SGqSHQjFN8C3mZD1oVg9SMG4SSwqcOuAM5VWWU1aGsQABNcfKxch/s1600/miss8n.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Nice to get back on my
bike, easy ride up the highway to Aswan. Early on I am wrapped up a bit for
the cool morning and then take off a few layers halfway along; the terrain is
like the surface of the moon so nothing to report except a few polite police
checkpoints.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I thought my adventures
would be winding down by now, I guess not.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" /> <span style="line-height: initial;">All the bikes
are issued with official Egyptian license plates at the border which have to be
visible and returned in Alexandria. <span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">Aaron did not</span> attach the front one
properly and it c<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">ame</span> off almost right away. In officious Egypt, this is a
problem although I do not know how much.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We get to Aswan late this
morning to meet up with 'very famous ' Gamal; this velly big problem, velly
big he mutters as I ride in his old rattle trap vehicle, hot, windows
don't wind down, just me and him plus cigarettes; 10 minutes to police station,
in we go, first one office, then another, then upstairs, getting bounced
around. I am trying to check out epaulets, make eye contact and smile as you
never know who is important and who might speak a bit of english (Gamal's is
terrible) and of course 'I am from Canada' etc a lot, some interest but
'Vancouver' draws a blank and I have left my world map at the hotel. Finally we
are downstairs again and get ushered into a room with a jail cell, empty for
now! I sit down, stand up several times, get introduced around, get offered a
cup of tea, Gamal is working with a studious guy who is writing something down.
In comes 3 guys who get put in this temporary jail cell which is then locked.
Finally Gamal and Mr. Studious have me sign something and he goes off to make
copies and do whatever else is necessary.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">By the way, if the
Pharoah's from 3000 years ago could see the state of decay in this part of the
world they would be rolling in their graves. Their craftsmanship, creativity,
and sheer imagination and knowledge are still being marveled at today yet their
descendants are very, very poor replicas in the world of today. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I am wrinting this in the
police station to pass the time. I ask 'very famous' Gamal how long and he says
5 minutes. By now I know what 5 minutes or 10 minutes means ie. it could mean
forever. Finally we are out of there $60 for an admin charge to Gamal which was
worth it because he had to come the previous day and see 4 people to set it all
up. Total elapsed time 2 hours, not bad really.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The guys are in the bar
waiting for me so we can go on our bus tour. First question, how did it go, not
good, what do you mean, $1,000 fine I only have $400 so need a top up and will
reimburse you, guys start digging in their pockets, one heads to the room; I
have been getting the razmataz about the lone Canadian, likely jail time or at
least delay leaving country, what will happen to motorcycle etc. etc. so had to
get in a little payback!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Fatimah (and her nice
friend Nesma) turned out to be one of our best guides of the trip; an
archeology major, clear english and slower of speech she educated us about the
history of the Aswan area (greater population about a million).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The important antiquities
here are the obelisks; the pharoahs people came here to carve out multi ton
granite statues out of special rock quarries. The quarry we saw is two km to
the river and the obelisk pictured here is 42 metres long and weighs 1200 tons.
How in the heck did they dislodge this massive piece let alone move it? (the
reason it is even here is that it cracked in place in 2500 BC and became
useless for further refinement)</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6woLSu8Of5rHm77XkW6gP4bpLAs-VD3QgHTMQKSZK9VhXPPvwhPUSAYZINCOsQd40m9j81licO5Nj8pDNEXMVbvxQUeLf7xEtdthPfQ1pKUp_MaixGYcKSXnIU_uPr7yvTnAjWTRc1te0/s1600/miss8o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6woLSu8Of5rHm77XkW6gP4bpLAs-VD3QgHTMQKSZK9VhXPPvwhPUSAYZINCOsQd40m9j81licO5Nj8pDNEXMVbvxQUeLf7xEtdthPfQ1pKUp_MaixGYcKSXnIU_uPr7yvTnAjWTRc1te0/s1600/miss8o.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">These granite obelisks are
now displayed all over the world as an awareness opportunity to encourage
people to come here and see for themselves how advanced their civilization was
in those days. The procedure was that they carved and carved into the bedrock
and then dislodged the large blocks by driving sicamore wedges under the piece
and soaking the wood; the wood absorbed the water then expanded and eventually
burst and separated the underlying rock from the obelisk; seems crazy but that
is what they did.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We then went to two
islands, Fila and Elphantine to look at how more temples were re-located and
moved when the Awan Dam was being built- not as impressive as Abu Simbel but
pretty impressive just the same. Speaking of the Dam, there are 12 massive
turbines on one and 4 on another each I believe kicking out 175,000 kilowatts
per turbine.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEzit7KudlmfCZoL4XHwl782iI2LW7q24c5JUBk9d6pW0LUdPuvmipeAkEgMcXItdPFyGeFqcqTDWn5I9AHJVi2bno6v9yTsRKpuuNzZ1-o04uK1PP2PJWDrEZQaNhM5T8EL7YhJ0OuvIE/s1600/miss8p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEzit7KudlmfCZoL4XHwl782iI2LW7q24c5JUBk9d6pW0LUdPuvmipeAkEgMcXItdPFyGeFqcqTDWn5I9AHJVi2bno6v9yTsRKpuuNzZ1-o04uK1PP2PJWDrEZQaNhM5T8EL7YhJ0OuvIE/s1600/miss8p.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Last of the day just
before dark was an hour long sail on an old arab sailing vessel called a
Faluca. It is a gaff rigged sail they used in olden times and the only draw
back is that there was no cold beer to enjoy on the trip (alcohol is hard to
come by in these parts except at the major hotels).</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoznEWTat3pMwmeN1lIKMem6xODk_LdZWOGx3zsOg7OEcRWHngyNeJY-j0uLbRy1aWXz3IGKcZuDWxxe_JtjjjuCLpd2vFnxRyF68BukoV7_fkUsM8XePX4oz5KZuJJGXU3c6e9vxzjdp/s1600/miss8q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoznEWTat3pMwmeN1lIKMem6xODk_LdZWOGx3zsOg7OEcRWHngyNeJY-j0uLbRy1aWXz3IGKcZuDWxxe_JtjjjuCLpd2vFnxRyF68BukoV7_fkUsM8XePX4oz5KZuJJGXU3c6e9vxzjdp/s1600/miss8q.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day 55, Fri, Mar 10</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Helnan Aswan Hotel to
Maritim Jolie Ville Jinks, Luxor 234 km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I am in the back seat of
Omar's car having given up my bike for Aaron to ride. Achmed is beside me and
we are squeezed in pretty tight; we have a mysterious guest in the front seat.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">His name is Hussein and he
has a heckler koch automatic weapon hidden inside his vest and it looks pretty
efficient. I asked to see the bullets but he would not show them; they are 9 mm
just like Omar's Glock.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Our guys are travelling
under convoy supervision today. It seems a bit over the top frankly but what do
I know? The Egyptians are extremely security conscious and a lot of the
reason is that tourism is their number one industry. It has suffered a lot
since Tahir Square 5 years ago.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Yesterday I counted 45
tour buses travelling to Abu Simbel. If you figure they were half full that is
something like 1,000 to 1,200 tourists going down there compared to what
before, not sure.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Security phobia, and we
are not allowed on the main artery to Luxor but the stop and go, village by
village, speed bump route, far mor interesting. Omar says it is complete shit;
already the so called convoy is way spread out and our armed guard is
essentially useless; at least I am supposedly safe!</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We just went through a very
like I mean very well armed check point. I am pretty sensitized now with 12,000
plus km under my belt but this all seems quite over the top so I am in
agreement with Omar.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Don't get me wrong, there
are legitimate issues here. However they are all up in the Sinai in the far
north east of the country and only in a tiny bit of the Sinai at that. Every
Egyptian I have spoken to is sad that the country has been essentially
ostracized by the world. They have SUCH a story to tell and everyone should
hear it and SEE it! </span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">We stopped at this really
cool Kom Ambo which is a little coffee joint in a sugar cane area. Tom and Mac
are there and it is Friday the local day off and it is full of turban clad guys
(no women) drinking tea and coffee, smoking their hookah's and playing
dominoes. Like checkers I used to think I was okay so the guys are friendly and
invite me to sit down. They play so damn fast I was quickly out of my element!</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJO4-6PSKoufHvdKAfPiOLD8HHzxazy-z6VImAQWUXlDNh9Ap3m_waQwelZO7p4pC_jAdERwHEQeZpik4vcl9uhJJzxe-k8lrhi9CK9n_X1IDp1Y39aHtbgPTzZVaGJkui79zrrSnvFJiN/s1600/miss8r.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJO4-6PSKoufHvdKAfPiOLD8HHzxazy-z6VImAQWUXlDNh9Ap3m_waQwelZO7p4pC_jAdERwHEQeZpik4vcl9uhJJzxe-k8lrhi9CK9n_X1IDp1Y39aHtbgPTzZVaGJkui79zrrSnvFJiN/s1600/miss8r.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Largely uneventful ride,
lots of speed bumps, police check points with menacing weaponry; main
agriculture is mango oranges, banana growing and sugar cane.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Egypt is made up of 28 governorships comprising 3
parts, Lower (Cairo and Nile delta) Upper Egypt and Nubian Egypt).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">A few closing observations:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-we are all getting quite used to the Muslim call
to prayer, it is quite lovely, not that I am on the way to getting converted</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-I have not done justice to commenting on the
amazing bird life in Africa and I feel a bit bad about that with the only
excuse being that not everything can be commented on.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Time to get this second to last (promise!) Missive
out, best, NG</span></span></div>
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<![endif]-->Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-77921673971685140302017-03-04T13:31:00.003-08:002017-03-21T19:34:36.255-07:00Missive #7, Day 41, Fri, Feb 24th to Day 48, Fri, Mar 3rd<!--[if !mso]>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footer"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="index heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="caption"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of figures"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope return"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
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<td style="padding: .75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">Reminder, please refer to the
Globeriders website under "Live Journals". Click here</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.globeriders.com/live!journal_pages/gcc17_live!journal/gcc17_main.shtml" target="_blank">Globeriders Live Journals</a> for the latest tracking and story
updates. It takes us to Ethiopia and is interesting in that it gives you a
perspective on what others are saying (none as wordy as me!) complete with
some incredible pictures of life on the African highway as seen and
experienced by our group.</span></span><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></div>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: initial; line-height: initial; text-align: initial;"><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It
seems like every Missive has an interesting story or happenstance and this one
is no different so read on!!</span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: initial; line-height: initial; text-align: initial;">
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 41, Fri, Feb 24th</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Jupiter
International Hotel, Addis Ababa, 0 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sightseeing
day in Addis! No matter how much passion and interest Facile puts into our
numerous stops on our city tour there is not a whole lot to get excited about.
However, a visit to their National Museum of Ethiopia revealed a whole lot
about Ethiopia being the cradle of civilization all those years ago. We heard
about an American, Dr. Johnson who discovered 'Lucy' in the 1990's. Lucy is the
oldest at 3.2 mm years replica of our species. Apparently Dr. Johnson was
listening to the famous Beatle's song 'Lucy in the sky' and decided to call
her Lucy. The rest of the museum was tired but okay. We then went to this old
church and spent some time finding out about its history which I will not bore
you with.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYoYs-NXp7ZkRAN2cxwj9nGVLalfjkAmzyIG8eRtHMNztIYTFFkWgOkAsOZ2B2CK4zcgH95oSeC31WLAIKiRXzSGBxj-68FIk1eMaVCiopi66NXJFy9Eh8lF4fr0tB767jxH3kyeEBQKM/s1600/missive71.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYoYs-NXp7ZkRAN2cxwj9nGVLalfjkAmzyIG8eRtHMNztIYTFFkWgOkAsOZ2B2CK4zcgH95oSeC31WLAIKiRXzSGBxj-68FIk1eMaVCiopi66NXJFy9Eh8lF4fr0tB767jxH3kyeEBQKM/s400/missive71.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br /></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyD_iMDDMe3nT5GBuTCk8DAlq5ECN27sVBa-VD94pPIQbRvbWO1PD9XzU5hSf8JJ3XoMra5N9I5BEQhwpHmFQv3m_n3RsBjESPfZrfhu1Vbos-arb5qycauOnJjIeXmST9PZATcmsq8vp/s1600/missive72.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKyD_iMDDMe3nT5GBuTCk8DAlq5ECN27sVBa-VD94pPIQbRvbWO1PD9XzU5hSf8JJ3XoMra5N9I5BEQhwpHmFQv3m_n3RsBjESPfZrfhu1Vbos-arb5qycauOnJjIeXmST9PZATcmsq8vp/s1600/missive72.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Taking a trip up the mountain for a panoramic view of the
city we came across this old woman and others carting this huge bundle of
eucalyptus branches and limbs down the hill which will be used to make
charcoal. She stopped for a rest and several of us tried to lift the bundle;
weighed over 100 lbs for sure. By the time we got finished rewarding her I
think she will go home happy for this day.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">By the time our nice lunch
was finished and we got back to the hotel, everyone wanted to crash, me too.
However, I had a date to go and see Naomi Mawindi at her grocery store which I
was led to believe was right around the corner. Naomi's brother Brahun picked
me up an hour late at 4 pm and it took us the best part of another hour to
drive the 15 km in traffic. I am learning that you have to really ask penetrating
questions to get to the answers you need because they are never easily
volunteered in this part of the world!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So who is Naomi? She is an Ethiopian, married with two young
children to a Zimbabwean guy called Hilary and living in Seattle. They have been
there for years and he is in the pharmaceutical business. Hilary and my
excellent IT guy Mike Daniels in Victoria are best buddies. However, the nub
issue is that she loves Ethiopia so commutes back and forth. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The best part was two english speaking locals dropped by and
I got an earful as per my rat-a-tat questions. One guy is a retired Toronto bus
driver and has lived in Canada for 34 years (in 1977 the population was 26 mm,
now it is over 100!).</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The other guy owns three businesses: cattle feed,
electrical and construction. Agaze was the best informed as follows:</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-vat 15%, income taxes a flat 35% for all</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-5 mm in Addis making it one of the largest cities in
Africa; the rest of Ethiopia is all rural with no city more than 500k</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-there are 75 tribes in Ethiopia</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Christian 60%, Muslim 40% approx</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Amaharic is the official language of the country; the
Amaharic tribe is about 40% and the Oromos are another 40%; unfortunately the
tribe ruling the country (from the Tigre region) with an iron hand only
comprises 5%; they have been in power since 1991 when they over threw the hated
communist regime who ruled from 1975; now they are hated just as bad or worse</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-there are 575 parliamentary seats, most are fixed</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The highlight of the day came later after Brahun dropped me
off at the hotel; all the guys were ready to head out for a dinner reservation
but I was tired and in no mood for more socializing. Some of them had had
haircuts at a joint down the road and looked pretty good so I decided to go
too.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A short walk and I arrive at 6:45; two hours later I was
still there, what a blast! These Ethiopian gals about 5 of them took me in hand
and I just accepted the service. First a haircut, then a shave, then a facial,
then a pedicure, then a foot massage, it just went on and on, the most fun I
have ever had in a barber shop by far! Mixed in was a brewing of traditional
Ethiopian coffee in their special custom manner (had witnessed it earlier in
the day at Naomi's) some bread with hot chili pepper powder sprinkled on top
necessitating it being washed down with their local brew and lots of giggling,
laughing and general fraternity. Maybe it was because I was a white guy or
maybe it was the end of the day but we had a lot of fun for two hours.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWl1rKYvbqRsvyz6ReWu0Na50XRFKy_9lCZHjiMIMgcnBHEQkJzUc4hKBIfqJz6-k5tyiaSA7AoqS4HzQAmD6kDP19jxfivppJhPnTzFeWcTBcM2qGIrjcrk3DoxtOPcm6S9-yzmeOMs8F/s1600/missive73.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWl1rKYvbqRsvyz6ReWu0Na50XRFKy_9lCZHjiMIMgcnBHEQkJzUc4hKBIfqJz6-k5tyiaSA7AoqS4HzQAmD6kDP19jxfivppJhPnTzFeWcTBcM2qGIrjcrk3DoxtOPcm6S9-yzmeOMs8F/s1600/missive73.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Cost? 350 Birr (about $17) so I naturally doubled it and
they were more than happy. By the way their coffee prep and serving process
goes as follows:</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-get some coals red hot</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-put a frying pan over it full of their world famous coffee
beans </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-fry the hell out of it until the smoke is burning up your
surroundings</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-take deep sniffs of the aroma until you nearly pass out</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-grind up the burnt mess and put a whole bunch of spoonfuls
in a special pot of boiling water placed on the same coals</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">- let it steep, pour, add sugar to taste, delicious and the
spoon will probably stand up by itself</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-you only have a small cup because otherwise you will be
flying high ( Ethiopia is credited with discovering coffee in the 14th
century; they noticed their donkeys eating this green bean and then getting a
little happy and it took off from there).</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
42, Sat, Feb 25th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Jupiter
Hotel, Addis Ababa to Sunny Side Hotel, Kombolcha, Ethiopia, 380 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I am
getting closer to saying something definitive about this rather sad continent.
Everywhere I go I meet beautiful people, helpful and joyful people, smart,
caring and inquisitive people; at the same time, most are caught in a hopeless
cycle of poverty and doing without. I am really trying to look at it with their
shoes on not my own. Where are the answers, are there answers?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">These
questions are super important because to a certain extent the world's future
depends on it and that is why untold billions are being spent here on aid and
support.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It
can be simplified down to three things from this humble person's viewpoint:
selfishness, education and tribalism.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Selfishness:
I have heard this word mentioned many times. Selfishness, lack of loving each
other, looking out entirely for your own personal gain adds up eventually to
various forms of corruption. Corruption is at the highest levels in all of
these countries and percolates right down to the grass roots. It is a way of
life. Until these people can turn this corner, reduce their selfish instincts
and learn how to care better for each other, their advancement is doomed.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Education:
this is the source of all progress up or down. Many countries are obviously
trying hard and this is good. Education can lead to choices, choices to have
more kids (or not), to choose a career, to get out from under, to have
mobility; all of these societies desperately need to educate their kids out of
poverty and into modernity or at least greater opportunity.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Tribalism:
this is an age old method to assist with basic survival in this harsh jungle
type continent. With 2000 languages here (75 tribes in Ethiopia alone) the
tribal way is a hindrance to progress. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Today
was supposed to be an easy day, NOT!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It
started out just dandy, we got out of town with little fanfare and headed for
the hills. I quickly noticed a whole bunch of distance runners mostly men but
some women in very colorful outfits making good progress. Judging by the
distance out of town it was some kind of marathon and these people were
obviously very fit as they were running at speed at an altitude of 6-7000'. No
wonder the Ethiopians are some of the best long distance runners in the world.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
quickly noticed a lot of endeavour , e</span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">veryone doing something useful.
Then, way out of town, maybe 50 klics in the country there are quite a few
warehouse facilities some engineering, some heavy equipment, a plastics outfit,
a brewery. I mean where will they get the labour from? One was a Sino Steel
plant so obviously Chinese, so was another processing wood products. It was
like another planet compared to south of Addis. Will have to ask around; by the
way I have not seen hard nor hare of a chinaman since leaving Cape Town.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWatfir61Ikfbd1oxs4a8G2iGbFrZKNc3f1rg_UROOtAKDO_RJ-rKQkeHpbRwtMMMkCbrjkkThWKWEHUhNoAxLhlqBdFAW0Zh4yFZZopjrGP0bkp55kD_6QX_0bdcA8uz9fnQl9KMIim04/s1600/missive74.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWatfir61Ikfbd1oxs4a8G2iGbFrZKNc3f1rg_UROOtAKDO_RJ-rKQkeHpbRwtMMMkCbrjkkThWKWEHUhNoAxLhlqBdFAW0Zh4yFZZopjrGP0bkp55kD_6QX_0bdcA8uz9fnQl9KMIim04/s1600/missive74.jpg" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The villages too are orderly, clean, purposeful, busy,
organized, a welcome relief from the sloth to the south.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Then we started to climb which was the tricky part. I dilly
dallied around some tight turns thoroughly enjoying myself and feeling on top
of the world. I spent a lot of the day at 10-11,000 feet ie. up in the clouds.
Then the clouds got wet, real wet!</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It started coming down even more heavily than Zambia. I
already had my first response jacket on but that clearly wasn't enough. I
stopped and ducked in to a little covered kiosk in a village and had a great
sign language exchange with the young lady selling her wares; left her a
stipend for her help and reluctantly headed out into the deluge.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It was bad, a whiteout in places. I tucked in behind a
big bus figuring he knew more about road conditions and sharp turns than me.
Everyone had on four way flashers and the speed for say a half hour was 20 km
per hour. It was kind of scary but no sense staying put; another problem was
the temperature was down to 9.5 degrees so cold as well but with my full wet
suit on by now it wasn't so bad. Another compounding problem was my plastic
face shield which kept falling down in front of me; doesn't sound like much but
it made my visibility that much worse. I had to drive with my right hand (brake
side) and hold the shiled up with my left just to see, not a great way to ride
a motorbike. I have since replaced the shield with my new spare and the ratchet
process works fine.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">By this time I was hoping for some desert heat! Funny how
you wish for one extreme or another. After about 45 minutes of slow moving and
reduced elevation we descended lower in to warmer temperature and better
visibility; it was so wet my panniers leaked.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Some other observations:</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-not sure why I am taking malaria pills for so few mosquitos
(so far); it only takes one but it seems unlikely</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-some of their paper money is so old you can hardly read it</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-no one uses their headlights, a big problem as would
prevent a lot of accidents</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-more than a few trucks dumped some of their loads so this
is a heads up to be wary</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-tons of animals, more than any other country so we need to
be very aware; most are slow moving and predictable, the goats are the most
harum scarum</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-you get used to low light conditions after dark; where we
live you turn on a light, adjust the intensity and you can actually see; here
due to expense and lack of electricity you get a gloomy kind of glare; tons of
power outages too.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This is a bit of a flea bagger but the food was good;
tomorrow will be better.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pg6p9l6wDA-klA7COMjJS9cOuTvB7d8yRI71tkdRzSyWFVf9qgKEOXYozZRXNZ8Fb04ed6sBqVUjnqWSIMsQtBS8OQmvqNVT6v8XEy2DHPdcH1ra_3k7EvLPtvmB-hGOykkiDwx1XQvR/s1600/missive75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pg6p9l6wDA-klA7COMjJS9cOuTvB7d8yRI71tkdRzSyWFVf9qgKEOXYozZRXNZ8Fb04ed6sBqVUjnqWSIMsQtBS8OQmvqNVT6v8XEy2DHPdcH1ra_3k7EvLPtvmB-hGOykkiDwx1XQvR/s1600/missive75.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 43, Sun, Feb 26th</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sunny Side Hotel, Kombolcha to Mountain View Hotel,
Lalibela, 313 km</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The story of today was climb, descend, climb, descend. We
got to 12,000 feet altitude in some places. It was exhilarating but hard work.
It was not a long day mileage wise but the first 140 km took us 2.5 hours as an
example of the more technical nature of the ride.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQoRm2jGoJ8LQiiqrP9FFJu17PwMrKCizHy4_iRhjj_3p-UjIWNvIOvTebDhhP2vkMm0AdAkVIJq7QgiuM1HqA9z89XT8E2PSOx28BynAtJ36YWgl3am-J3cwt1g9Ue81kCOK_SdPE-tL/s1600/missive76.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmQoRm2jGoJ8LQiiqrP9FFJu17PwMrKCizHy4_iRhjj_3p-UjIWNvIOvTebDhhP2vkMm0AdAkVIJq7QgiuM1HqA9z89XT8E2PSOx28BynAtJ36YWgl3am-J3cwt1g9Ue81kCOK_SdPE-tL/s1600/missive76.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Northern Ethiopia is spectacular scenery wise, the best we
have seen yet; much of it is to do with the varying topography. A couple of
issues: the turns are very tight in places necessitating total focus and
therefore some potential missed views; the cloud cover did not give us terrific
viewing opportunities either. Last, there are few safe or convenient exit
points to stop and look around. Still, we had and eye full so no complaints,
just not very good pictures.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Early on we were in some
drizzle, an occasional whiteout requiring 4 way flashers and lots of pot holes
to dodge. Later, we were on gravel roads for about 70 km or so.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxx5BnTFfmtdKvx0E0ATZzIvMrdGGrQgh44UQxvWVBKud4styBFxTtL0MkrZLL8GrYQtzJI4VzAFBIEGHHlUFOGI6ZaCMxeVW-SqJ42WbfODlohpnFByVmhfqV0QhkVOX2tH2RykJCJCC/s1600/missive77.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxx5BnTFfmtdKvx0E0ATZzIvMrdGGrQgh44UQxvWVBKud4styBFxTtL0MkrZLL8GrYQtzJI4VzAFBIEGHHlUFOGI6ZaCMxeVW-SqJ42WbfODlohpnFByVmhfqV0QhkVOX2tH2RykJCJCC/s1600/missive77.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Some observations:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-no bikes, dogs or cats</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-few soccer fields (how could you on the sides of
mountains?) and difficult to discern schools</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-at certain villages still notice layabout young men</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-in the higher up areas men and women all wear white throw
over frocks, looks nice</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-this is an area of herders; everyone is herding something
24/7</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-people very friendly, inquisitive and no rocks thrown at us
(yet!) which has been a problem in the past</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-many of the women lovely to look at many with long angular
faces</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-often men will be walking along holding hands;
homosexuality is against the law and can lead to lengthy prison sentences </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the effluent spewing from trucks and indeed all manner of vehicles
is something to behold; you can hardly breath behind these things; the
government really needs to legislate needed changes but in a poor country this
is easier said than done.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We are now at this lovely scenic hotel way up high called
not surprisingly the Mountain View Hotel. We will get a rest from the bikes
tomorrow and find out about the Lalibela Monolithic churches which are world
famous from the 12th century but I had never heard of the place before.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I now have 17037 km on my odometer which means we have
completed 9255 km so far; GPS says 1379 in Sudan (6 days) and 1879 in Egypt (11
days) to go. </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 44, Mon, Feb 27th</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mountain View Hotel, Lalibela, 0 km</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Lalibela means 'eater of the honey bee' and when King
Lalibela was born he was surrounded by honey bees hence the name. He was a
revered and generous man, travelled to Jerusalem and wanted to create something
similar here.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">He built 6 complete churches right into the ground with a
hammer, chisel and other rudimentary tools in 23 years. They simply started
digging and kept digging into basalt and volcanic rock. The biggest one is
huge, 34 by 24 metres by 10 metres high with 34 pillars inside and 38
pillars outside. It is a Unesco world heritage site for very good reason and
the Germans have recently built a huge roof structure over head to protect
against erosion. The Orthodox Christian churches are called monolithic for the
reason that they are built in one place and are the world's best kept and
largest of their kind.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7Y3zyXOI7Vp03KnJtEehdPGoltVRs9RcEjg9WRyAxKVbn8ZY6PnkViTfxDCn49kFdr5IY9m8NQeOX4_Uq9CguYRzA8VrzVsBODdH1Ld1tgadYjZ2WnvpfZjfhoG3y2Af8o3IJKmkW3o7/s1600/missive78.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7Y3zyXOI7Vp03KnJtEehdPGoltVRs9RcEjg9WRyAxKVbn8ZY6PnkViTfxDCn49kFdr5IY9m8NQeOX4_Uq9CguYRzA8VrzVsBODdH1Ld1tgadYjZ2WnvpfZjfhoG3y2Af8o3IJKmkW3o7/s1600/missive78.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We went in to all 6 churches, heard chapter and verse and
altho' a bit too much detail, we were over awed by what we saw; approx 30k
tourists come annually to see theses structures and most fly in and out.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGc6Ojmyow0Wlm73OtUH5hSxy-hYSiGl23crMfRmb5qKJ0JVY95GwrvGZ-o8NuM88DvwDalxiO_Xz6D0eTM8Tp3rUs2rSeVk7XLckJcGeYIzLfiKTxuShnBapdFsX2dtplw2zEDlIEV6Ey/s1600/missive79.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGc6Ojmyow0Wlm73OtUH5hSxy-hYSiGl23crMfRmb5qKJ0JVY95GwrvGZ-o8NuM88DvwDalxiO_Xz6D0eTM8Tp3rUs2rSeVk7XLckJcGeYIzLfiKTxuShnBapdFsX2dtplw2zEDlIEV6Ey/s1600/missive79.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Lalibela is a religious town of 30,000 people and quite
touristy in a down trodden Ethiopian way; the surrounding area is supported by
quite good farming, mainly wheat and barley.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We had an interesting lunch and most returned to the hotel
while Mac and I kept the guide going for the balance of the afternoon.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdX-3YOoEyM0b68ywWF1S25r85-QpEGTTmv3Jtq5PSAxMe8j8roPblacbzc9r2oeoYXizzyOGVGKblg6LsGQ7rgujGLuM-rSYUy8FJh7eIIoGOjiYE0fGt1WhWo4ghCsfSq_qY8VacqOs9/s1600/missive80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdX-3YOoEyM0b68ywWF1S25r85-QpEGTTmv3Jtq5PSAxMe8j8roPblacbzc9r2oeoYXizzyOGVGKblg6LsGQ7rgujGLuM-rSYUy8FJh7eIIoGOjiYE0fGt1WhWo4ghCsfSq_qY8VacqOs9/s1600/missive80.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We left with filthy bikes and for 5 bucks came back to
sparkling tidy machines, a good idea by Mac.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A story from Mac my New Jersey buddy, laughs at pretty much
anything and loves a two way dig; this morning he tells the front desk, no room
service thanks, sounds like a good <span style="line-height: initial;">idea
so I do the same, ask him later why, reduces prying eyes and theft, ok sounds
smart; later he offers up unannounced that he learned the trick on a previous
trip from a Canadian no less; great opening, instead of keeping it to himself
and taking the credit as he should have done, I jumped right in, thought so
Mac, knew you couldn't be that smart, good gotcha but you had to be there I
guess to appreciate it!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Some comments:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-in Ethiopia, men and
women are moving slowly towards parity with better progress in the larger
centres </span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-for the most part people
are clean living with respect to alcohol, cigarettes, drugs and sex; Addis as
the 4th largest African city would be the exception</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-many here get by on less
than $2 per day; all look healthy and there are no fat people to be seen; many
walk everywhere to run their lives with and without their animals</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-the next largest city in
this country would only have a population of 500k</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-stick buildings are
mudded in as people can afford them, all made from eucalyptus trees</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz4_plpfCWDkOH3Qxpzy6idMr5sRYYDuQ7LNukf_KEFpXC7owXeBsfcHyCN_poC2WLb7a2NMxVALZGX5RcmMemM8XClg_Ow3C4-xmlGU3rJ7GXlC_9Cbi464WPQ6-ULguoAOUdmmF9RQyk/s1600/missive81.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz4_plpfCWDkOH3Qxpzy6idMr5sRYYDuQ7LNukf_KEFpXC7owXeBsfcHyCN_poC2WLb7a2NMxVALZGX5RcmMemM8XClg_Ow3C4-xmlGU3rJ7GXlC_9Cbi464WPQ6-ULguoAOUdmmF9RQyk/s1600/missive81.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-circular huts in the old
days were made that way because it was easier to build the thatched roofs in a
supportable manner.</span><span style="line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4V-Vtp7ib29P6NyPty4T0FvW6vxJvtw-x6ZdIbHYoPNXSbKnHbbHYwuSUxp1xdbBd9Avjvc1Es55rFKIMjaIvlowrXaq7WfsUtHYQO7hfSvF2EsULqpZrW4BVJI-Vp2kUR40NqaAttIb/s1600/missive82.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd4V-Vtp7ib29P6NyPty4T0FvW6vxJvtw-x6ZdIbHYoPNXSbKnHbbHYwuSUxp1xdbBd9Avjvc1Es55rFKIMjaIvlowrXaq7WfsUtHYQO7hfSvF2EsULqpZrW4BVJI-Vp2kUR40NqaAttIb/s1600/missive82.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">I have been eating no meat
because it is too tough and stringy to chew and digest; the fish is very good
and their vegetable dishes are excellent with lots of interesting variety.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Tom has a problem with his
front end steering and forks which are bent quite badly. He hit a pothole at
high speed yesterday and it is all quite wiggly and loose, hope he can finish
the trip okay or maybe a partial repair is in order. It is another example of
the fast guys lacking caution. Tom is a very, very experienced rider, loves to
ride on his own all over Central and South America including Venezuela a little
over a year ago. In the long run things like bald tires and other
unmentionables can come back to haunt you.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Tonight we went to this
amazing restaurant on an even higher hill top than our hotel called the Ben
Abeba Restaurant. Susan is a 66 year old Scottish lady. She came here 9 years
ago to build a school out in the valley. About 5 years ago, having completed her
work at the school, she partnered with her driver to build this one of a kind
structure with panoramic 360 degree views in every direction. We got there
early for a stunning sunset picture opportunity and then sat down to a
wonderful dinner and evening. We were truly fortunate to have such an
experience basically in the middle of nowhere.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFg8sWvvntNL2kpPST22ojurT6Pj9OggeU4CSB6-MKlVJEaqCUTOfu3Y7hg5J2sFcCTxi0NUFYLO7pdFwEIwn49uDEQWR8ro-xmSITcKtsDGxeWaxyMdiHoV_2Ph0rROXUo3Q5eUjlYBN/s1600/missive83.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFg8sWvvntNL2kpPST22ojurT6Pj9OggeU4CSB6-MKlVJEaqCUTOfu3Y7hg5J2sFcCTxi0NUFYLO7pdFwEIwn49uDEQWR8ro-xmSITcKtsDGxeWaxyMdiHoV_2Ph0rROXUo3Q5eUjlYBN/s1600/missive83.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day 45, Tue, Feb 28th</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Mountain View Hotel,
Lalibela to Goha Hotel, Gonder, 366 km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">This was apparently our
last gravel road day. We re-traced our steps back to the main road with one
interesting bike drop in a stream (not me!); will not mention the name but I
think we were all glad to get back on tarmac.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Today's ride was pure
motorcycle heaven. Great tarmac (a few ruts and potholes and truck trenches but
on the whole excellent). We started out in the high alpine and it was coolish,
about 13 degrees. Then we got into the switch backs, what fun, up and down and
then again. I wish I could better explain the feeling but those that ride will
fully understand. It was one of my best riding days ever.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">My procedure for tight
hairpin turns is as follows:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-gear down as appropriate
sometimes even into first if it is steep downhill</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-eyes open no blinking
throughout the turn</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-focus as far ahead as you
can; you go where you look so don't be looking at the drop off for goodness
sakes</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-look for hazards, gravel
build up so you don't spin out</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSX7NCAZIHHiiGwf1ah4yAyaITvveqEJd3qlz5XNkaTrcCGx4U16QfCSewzftv32gitvzJ6sx5oA8XKkZZ4JnuXHAdVTXkUyjRjkQQssUped2d8w_mOY3QyXx3S5RxcKysnZbnKjTDaRgo/s1600/missive84.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSX7NCAZIHHiiGwf1ah4yAyaITvveqEJd3qlz5XNkaTrcCGx4U16QfCSewzftv32gitvzJ6sx5oA8XKkZZ4JnuXHAdVTXkUyjRjkQQssUped2d8w_mOY3QyXx3S5RxcKysnZbnKjTDaRgo/s1600/missive84.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Fuel has been a concern
all the time we have been in Ethiopia due to a lack of foreign currency to pay
for the stuff. When we get fuel I always like to hi-5 the attendants and pass
on a little tip. In fact, wherever we stop and get immediately surrounded by
interested locals I always like to go the hi-5 route before we leave. A little
pyhsical contact always generates a pleasurable smile. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We zipped along getting
closer to Gonder and tomorrow we make the early border crossing into Sudan
which should be interesting.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzWW86CBTe3LoNFg9_hPTAbg6-biF448tB7VbCLdSo8Pu0XHtxD5YG56_iabmm3t04tUeJj3IoC2Muw1ECdKCVsvbiMuKacS2qBtijIAoBZJH3rd2Pm4uOswDX-caNvfkehV-K9JPtO-D/s1600/missive85.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzWW86CBTe3LoNFg9_hPTAbg6-biF448tB7VbCLdSo8Pu0XHtxD5YG56_iabmm3t04tUeJj3IoC2Muw1ECdKCVsvbiMuKacS2qBtijIAoBZJH3rd2Pm4uOswDX-caNvfkehV-K9JPtO-D/s1600/missive85.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">I will really miss
Ethiopia. The people are so pleasant and the scenery is like nowhere else. What
I will not miss is the traffic on the roads. People and animals require
constant vigilance which means you are always a bit on edge when riding.
Depsite this we have all greatly enjoyed Ethiopia and all its challenges.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 46, Wed, Mar 1st</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Goha Hotel, Gonder,
Ethiopia to El-Motwakil Hotel, Gedaref, Sudan, 358 km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Tom and I got in a bit of
'Helge trouble' last night. We each got a bottle of Johnny Walker Black for a
100 bucks to hold the gang over in alcohol free Sudan. He did not take too
kindly to the idea of smuggling it across the border (he reminded me of a diiferent
incident by yours truly 6 years ago on the Silk Road!). We couldn't take it
back and fortunately it had not been emptied into plastic water bottles so we
were able to make it part of our tip to the driver (Rafa) and the guide (Fasil).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Today was more dream land
riding and prior to the hot flat desert coming up we deserved it. It was
coolish, about 13 deg starting out before dawn because we have a lot of work to
do at the border. Last time Helge was here two years ago they could not get visas.
This time visas were granted but in today's land of Trump anything can happen
so there was a definite feeling of suspense amongst the guys at this Muslim
sharia border.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">My lasting impression of
Ethiopia will not be the dead donkey lying in the middle of the road in a
village surrounded by blood this morning. People here have a habit of leaving
their dead lying comatose for many hours even days so not sure how long this one
laid there; suffice to say, along with wrecked vehicles this is a very common
occurrence.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">My true lasting impression
is one of smiling waving kids walking to school, papers and books in hand as we
ride by. Their innocence, joy of seeing us and great smiles are priceless. </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGL3THCbsy1hQv-JDXH-oXlsYSF_GbquV1X6-rKlxVcs-Zbpa7dTAdmbUQFp_cGLTOvI8yhmlLrDLa1bRla4lr6ldOh9t9WDCtNkAPImnrBMFXD7nY-wdbxEHedZTE6Kt95faljhemyxVb/s1600/missive86.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGL3THCbsy1hQv-JDXH-oXlsYSF_GbquV1X6-rKlxVcs-Zbpa7dTAdmbUQFp_cGLTOvI8yhmlLrDLa1bRla4lr6ldOh9t9WDCtNkAPImnrBMFXD7nY-wdbxEHedZTE6Kt95faljhemyxVb/s1600/missive86.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">In one village I had to
stop to confront this little girl about 12 carrying this great yellow jug of
water on her head (this is the first area of the country that they actually do
this whereas it is common occurrence in country's further south). Could I pick
it up, yes. I looked for markings on it but there were none and guessed it to
be about 50 lbs, pretty heavy in other words. I later confirmed with Facil that
they are 20 litre jugs so 44 lbs. By the way, these jugs are the way clean
water is handled all over the country, there have to be tens of m illions in
circulation.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIz_cuvWc68Ila0z0hu4113SeRC3XXIkCyGg8jmJqcreWREez2ttCsCPOmBmIvZr_uFtoFJtTLMtsEVXz3wYFJTqubp0yt-6nTalAfnyKOe8D5mT4zdQiKzVHdEh2Tn3FuQ_ZGsril8pXU/s1600/missive87.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIz_cuvWc68Ila0z0hu4113SeRC3XXIkCyGg8jmJqcreWREez2ttCsCPOmBmIvZr_uFtoFJtTLMtsEVXz3wYFJTqubp0yt-6nTalAfnyKOe8D5mT4zdQiKzVHdEh2Tn3FuQ_ZGsril8pXU/s1600/missive87.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">I stopped often at the
back of the pack for nostalgic picture taking opportunities of the great
countryside and hair pin turns. I could not resist stopping by a rather large
school just as the kids were arriving. Ball, pump and Facil in tow in we went
for another great welcome; there have not been many of these so was glad to get
this one in at the 11th hour.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6detuNhCSOPC2-EJTj_Ll_gGb-IDGXf87fZQhUHK6eYoqZYZL3FSGGZbU0gIK1FKMtWaDE53C7UcjbcGiZ3mOGYoTwB-XN8TkUrTvYIvbd_TK3ygdu_GqBLaknnqAvxQDZsXQjXk1aB7/s1600/missive88.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_6detuNhCSOPC2-EJTj_Ll_gGb-IDGXf87fZQhUHK6eYoqZYZL3FSGGZbU0gIK1FKMtWaDE53C7UcjbcGiZ3mOGYoTwB-XN8TkUrTvYIvbd_TK3ygdu_GqBLaknnqAvxQDZsXQjXk1aB7/s1600/missive88.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">So today has been a great
big, huge, colossal shamozzle, like a game breaker so to speak; a story like
this seems to be following me on each trip.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We get to the border, all
is cool to start. Carnet de passage to allow us to leave Ethiopia goes fine, on
to customs clearance from Ethiopia so we hadn't even got to the Sudan side yet;
turns out that my visa issued December 6th for two months expired on Frebruary
6th and this is March 1st my Dad's 101st. birthday. They send me over to the
Sudan side and all is confirmed that the visa has expired and I am out of luck.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">What the hell, game, set
and match. I have to go back to Addis 900 km to fight the bureaucratic night
mare to get a new visa and this is Wednesday and it will take two days to get
there. I will be way too far behind and never catch up.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">How about flying my bike
to Cairo and joining up to catch the guys exiting Sudan. Way too much risk with
the paperwork turnaround in Egypt to justify this alternative.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Looks like my trip is
over. I follow the chase vehicle back to Addis, box up the bike and the two of
us fly home; cost about $5,000 additional. Pretty sad.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">How this occurred is ultimately
my responsibility. I hired a very nice and competent lady in Vancouver to
supervise the visa process. She then hired a reputable firm CIBT Passport
Professionals to guide the process. They both had my travel itinerary. I
trusted both of them implicitly and paid accordingly. When my multi stamped
passport showed up I stowed it away and kept preparing all of the many tiny
details also needed before departure.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">All this has taken several
hours with much brain storming and knashing of teeth; there is no way the
Sudanese guys would stamp it and look the other way either.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Then at the 11th hour good
old LA attorney Tom Boltz has a brain wave no one has considered and poses the
iffy question. Aaron Beckord has been cooling his jets in Addis for the last week
and is flying to Khartoum to meet us almost immediately. Could he come up
to the border, pick up my bike signed over to him (if that would indeed be
possible), drive it through Sudan and meet me at the border on the other side
in 6 days? A flurry of activity occurs to track this one down and dejected Nick
now has a new head of steam.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzGSlmh1iDnLobUHMxABYp8AsXtsGoKO6mA0tb681cNQNdfED9yN3OlrO8elQkZ-w_REFikeQI_RBo6Eg7ykscuW-SuCJ2o5WXjyM4uAfRf0W5jra1z5BnLzgzSCg9VEi0z3ocEY3BBly/s1600/missive89.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWzGSlmh1iDnLobUHMxABYp8AsXtsGoKO6mA0tb681cNQNdfED9yN3OlrO8elQkZ-w_REFikeQI_RBo6Eg7ykscuW-SuCJ2o5WXjyM4uAfRf0W5jra1z5BnLzgzSCg9VEi0z3ocEY3BBly/s1600/missive89.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Let me digress for a
moment; I was not going to share this but Aaron crashed his bike last Saturday;
to me it was too much speed. He hit a donkey on a wide,
straight uphill highway with lots of clearance on both sides of the tarmac. His
brand new BMW 1200 Adventure that goes like stink is a writeoff - injuries: basically scrapes and bruises, blood all over from the
animal and $100 to pay off the donkey owner.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Aaron 48, is a great
rider, don't get me wrong but too much speed doesn't work over here no matter
how good you are; my guess is that he was doing close to <span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">80</span> mph and did not
see the animal until it was too late.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdhfPswmLMfE26IWiOWlczEoUNjQ8X9haddMrEYBUyy7YWlBUp_UOC4OLEmAyDZwLgZsTIMtT1c-AxkZxXtH7fVlIOv90056-6d-wpMOZI-hjVhvSPVtj5omvNwQqOSO8FHJ_uYShZTh-2/s1600/missive90.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdhfPswmLMfE26IWiOWlczEoUNjQ8X9haddMrEYBUyy7YWlBUp_UOC4OLEmAyDZwLgZsTIMtT1c-AxkZxXtH7fVlIOv90056-6d-wpMOZI-hjVhvSPVtj5omvNwQqOSO8FHJ_uYShZTh-2/s1600/missive90.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Aaron was extremely lucky
to be injury free but his bike is a total loss. He was going to head home trip
over but we all encouraged him to join us in Khartoum and maybe we can take
turns with our bikes so he can ride a bit too when he isn't in the chase vehicle.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We (Helge, Moneer our
Sudanese guide and interpreter and I) start tracking down this option. The
Sudanese guys are getting to know us a bit my now and are basically nice guys.
It is amazing how a little bit of charm goes a long ways. The Carnet needs to
be completed on the Sudanese side, they need proof of insurance and ownership
copies and we need to go and see the big commander chief in the dark back room
to get his permission to leave my bike in no man's land for overnight for Aaron
to pick up.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"></span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">One thing you need to
worry about is a significant language barrier. When Aaron arrives at the border
all by himself where does he go, who does he see, what are the unforeseen
pitfalls? Important questions because I will soon be on my way north. Predicting
this I befriend a local minder who makes himself available to help with border
transactions ( also Aaron is very resourceful having been well travelled).</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">John has an Ethiopian and
Sudanese telephone number, he now knows the players pertinent to my situation
at the border and he has a new soccer ball under his arm and $20 in his jeans
(I asked Moneer what I should tip him and he said $10 would be lots; Aaron will
give him another 20 on completion).</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWAfFesiW8U3ZoS8N3ZhXnDn8S_nRK9IrgmEtbHL9UCPJVoUi3GJrRjAlcRxN3al31JO_UObuwsdHxEMaJQ45tGxxfVh2T2mo8vnL0R-AL2SbKllihq4oKYC5QKsGTfs_7vBWD9t6BpXSV/s1600/missive91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWAfFesiW8U3ZoS8N3ZhXnDn8S_nRK9IrgmEtbHL9UCPJVoUi3GJrRjAlcRxN3al31JO_UObuwsdHxEMaJQ45tGxxfVh2T2mo8vnL0R-AL2SbKllihq4oKYC5QKsGTfs_7vBWD9t6BpXSV/s1600/missive91.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">So the plan, fingers
crossed is that I fly from Gondar where I am now to Addis tomorrow, over night
then make a connection to Cairo in a day or so and fly south to Abu Simbel
where our guide Omar will pick me up and continue on to the border further
south to meet the gang. In this way I will at least be able to do the Egypt
part and ship my bike home in the container as previously planned.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Aaron meanwhile will be
met by Fasil and I tomorrow morning at the Gondar airport having flown in from
Addis. He will grab a taxi shuttle for the 200 km to the northern border, pick
up my bike and ride it two days to Khartoum where the guys are spending two
days and three nights.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">One very lucky coincidence
worth mentioning is that when we contacted Aaron this aft in his hotel room
about all of this he was just preparing to leave for the airport to fly to
Khartoum. We would have missed him otherwise as he would have not been in phone
contact. He is very excited about this part of the journey, adventure really.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">So, by the hair of my
chiny chin chin it looks like I am still alive on this little caper and can
hopefully resume this interesting trip sans Sudan!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 47, Thur, Mar 2nd,
New Plan (Day 1 of 6)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I had my share of
adrenaline rush yesterday.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I met Aaron at the airport
from his flight arriving at 9 am; mine is at 1:45 to Addis so we had some time
to catch up. I was really glad to hear from Aaron that he had screwed up and
was entirely responsible for his own actions; owning up is half the battle.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Today is a national
holiday. In 1</span><span style="line-height: initial;">896 emperor Menelik II
defeated the Italians who were on a colonization binge of Africa like the rest
of Europe. Ethiopia has always been a free country except for the period of
1935-41 when Mussolini returned to extract revenge. Their independence day
became a catalyst for the rest of Africa to look up to even though it did not
start to happen until the 1960's.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Everything is closed and
the traffic is quiet in Addis. Facil has arranged for a driver (Betra) to pick
me up at the airport. I would like to say that Rainbow Travel has provided an
exceptional level of service to help us all out in our various predicaments. I
think that Facil has enjoyed this group of characters and that it is an
entirely different type of customer than he is used to. Rainbow has 65
vehicles in their fleet and is owned by a very wealthy Arab who is diversifying
his fortune elsewhere.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Sheik Mohammed Husin a la
Moudi has an Ethiopian mother and owns over 100 companies in this country. His
Arab fortune is listed in the $8 billion range. He is in his mid 60's,
apparently very nice and was in town last week. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">So here I am back at the Jupiter Hotel in
downtown Addis; a nice relaxing massage, an excellent soup and salad for
dinner, a little Facetime and I am ready to go for tomorrow.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 48, Fri, Mar 3rd, New
Plan (Day 2 of 6)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">When someone says I will
be there in10 minutes it could mean just about anything. An 8:30 pick up did
not materialize so a couple of calls later and a few 'in 10 minutes' which is
really only a guess and a guy comes at 9:30. I get to the Sheraton with lots of
security (Sheik also owns, a $450 a night joint) and no Samson so call him and
get another 'be there in 10 minutes' routine. He shows up at 10:30 and we get
down to business.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The flights to Cairo leave
in the middle of the night for some reason. I am confirmed Egyptian Air
departing at 4:15 am and arriving at 7:00 am. I will have two days to sight see
and then fly Monday at 7:30 am arriving at 10:10 am in Abu Simbel. Hopefully
all will come to a hoped for conclusion!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">My nice driver took me to
the Mercado on the way back to the hotel; the traffic getting there was
horrendous and Yona thinks there are more like 10 mm people here than 5. Now I
have been to a lot of these places before but nothing quite like the size,
busyness and sheer ingenuity of the many and varied stalls. It is a local
business non-tourist place and Yona wisely hooked me up with a minder so I
wouldn't get lost or mugged. Pockets empty, camera in hand, away I went, had a
blast and got my eyes opened more than once crashing in to all the traffic
toing and froing.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I am sorry for the poor
photo selection and quality. My process is pretty archaic but it works as
follows:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">-type out story with two
thumbs on Blackberry and forward</span><span style="line-height: initial;"> to
Ipad</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-download selected Canon
pics to Ipad</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-attempt to pick out a few
to attach to missive from tiny photo view point so as to not overload the data
allowed</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-hope that the wifi spot
has enough power to transmit</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-repeat process quite a
few times until you get it right and this can be pretty frustrating at times.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">It probably takes an hour
a day and sometimes quite a bit more to get it all right; even though it is a
bit of a task sometimes there is a good accounting there for future reference
and hopefully some enjoyment and a few laughs for my readers.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Time to get this on the
wire, NG</span></span></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span>Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-9942127960878180592017-02-23T11:00:00.000-08:002017-03-21T19:05:24.435-07:00Missive #6, Day 33 Thur, Feb 16th to Day 40, Thur, Feb 23rd<!--[if !mso]>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="List Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="List Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="List Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2 Accent 6"/>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 33, Thur, Feb 16th</span><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
New Arusha Hotel to Merrueshi Maasai Village, Kenya, 266 km</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
leave Arusha in convoy due to traffic and an uncertain waypoint. Out of town it
becomes and enjoyable ride away from the traffic and working through some
great twisties , likely the best yet. </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We skirt
counter clockwise around Mount Kiliminjaro which is 19,000 feet rising from a
floor of about 5,000 feet, pretty impressive.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We get to the turn off and head right on a dirt track to the
Maasai camp where we will be staying for two nights. </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It is a bit of a hairy ride and I am feeling tired when I
come to a largish kids boarding school of 400 aged 8-14. I have an extra
ball so stop on my goodwill mission; lots of excitment, the head guy all
dressed up and waving a scary stick all over the place. It is a nice interlude.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiURYuiyM3iKJlbhFloGIJm6CMpO_44FAArJEdOjP0VSZSCdSARGz_hsSiwcchsoycNiMsUNA-Vfw6HBu1fNPmf9lh6PFQj5do0ETkvUTUO269EJDz5dQ3CGKg5ePSeEE0RYWKRuxqMdIJz/s1600/missive6a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiURYuiyM3iKJlbhFloGIJm6CMpO_44FAArJEdOjP0VSZSCdSARGz_hsSiwcchsoycNiMsUNA-Vfw6HBu1fNPmf9lh6PFQj5do0ETkvUTUO269EJDz5dQ3CGKg5ePSeEE0RYWKRuxqMdIJz/s1600/missive6a.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I keep going and discover that the slippy slidy stuff is
getting a bit easier and actually make the camp without incident.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The camp is headed up by a U.S. educated (Washington
State)Maasai man called Kakutu and his brother Tom who are good friends of
Helge's from 16 years ago. They cater to groups like us interested in Maasai culture.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRbvzZHy_A-b9sVO6w3sGg64t7kbj2C64GcUXhPEeQeGa-wj2Z89IflxbRSGEJpe-6IGA3HJEG5Kzw2_sHM7maZ5HamaQui7yzOCpZjOnkT5yeERptuWjmrozRJctunMF3RbkOsFFY8kV/s1600/missive6b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinRbvzZHy_A-b9sVO6w3sGg64t7kbj2C64GcUXhPEeQeGa-wj2Z89IflxbRSGEJpe-6IGA3HJEG5Kzw2_sHM7maZ5HamaQui7yzOCpZjOnkT5yeERptuWjmrozRJctunMF3RbkOsFFY8kV/s1600/missive6b.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
get a general run down of stuff and head out for a two hour late afternoon walk
to scout out the local animals, what their crap looks like, how to track them
etc, very interesting. We return for dinner and drinks and walk out again
around 10 pm to check out the local swamp only to get skunked.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSdqJLOlk4rcKzGlINEwQAXmWoBkvOMaO0Fb6jOzZe0DXaDRupDRkn_z9pgP2qCeoGo_4rddq77ctuz5C1J6aGih8-KRzWFiigrP9NMalWRgGzMaZjgd2R0-kyRm6Wz9CZQFfalDs_NX9X/s1600/missive6c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSdqJLOlk4rcKzGlINEwQAXmWoBkvOMaO0Fb6jOzZe0DXaDRupDRkn_z9pgP2qCeoGo_4rddq77ctuz5C1J6aGih8-KRzWFiigrP9NMalWRgGzMaZjgd2R0-kyRm6Wz9CZQFfalDs_NX9X/s1600/missive6c.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 34, Fri, Feb 17th</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Merrueshi Maasai Village, 0 km</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Up at 6 am for a quick snack and out again for a 3
hour walk; it is exhilarating to be on a walkabout, no noise, tracking the
animals with the Maasai guides, learning about animal habits, the local bird
life, really cool stuff after the noise of a vehicle safari.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We return for breakfast and then all get motorcycle tire
tread sandals made by a local expert for $10 each plus tip; zero gets wasted.
The guy is a real craftsman and can make three pairs out of one tire. </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh57yfN8UqyywQp4Nc3ZNjti7un5YKC8icdiauNbmLa1w36MlUkXizF1MKn6BuFybM25rnBp8CcPoOlVXyKnMQWqe3ClJmszljqRrw-2gyRhGETBuRIfzBnSEjJ1BClCHDPTtDFwigjMTfF/s1600/missive6d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh57yfN8UqyywQp4Nc3ZNjti7un5YKC8icdiauNbmLa1w36MlUkXizF1MKn6BuFybM25rnBp8CcPoOlVXyKnMQWqe3ClJmszljqRrw-2gyRhGETBuRIfzBnSEjJ1BClCHDPTtDFwigjMTfF/s1600/missive6d.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Following that we have a long session with two tribal elders
we guess to be in their mid 70's via an interpreter. Some rough notes as
follows:</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Chipwe about 75, going blind, has 6 wives and doesn't know
how many children</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-elders chosen by age seniority and qualities of wisdom;
there are many elders</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6LCO-MKTuX-x1E1JG7iZlNrJ_v3cPZj2JfARS-ngMjN4YfwB-aczUmvBYWlzm0guAb_JILuT7rkPCMCnCLJE4qPRMPIRbXYR1VCpT0oJld6BRIG7pthToOCuqs2FlOCLVFGBvskUDFvA/s1600/missive6e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC6LCO-MKTuX-x1E1JG7iZlNrJ_v3cPZj2JfARS-ngMjN4YfwB-aczUmvBYWlzm0guAb_JILuT7rkPCMCnCLJE4qPRMPIRbXYR1VCpT0oJld6BRIG7pthToOCuqs2FlOCLVFGBvskUDFvA/s1600/missive6e.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-there are no women elders, men are superior, God created
man first</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Maasai originally came from Tanzania with their cows</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-they have very useful and proven herbs originating from
plants and tree bark which they boil in to a broth to assist with ilnesses</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-kids are changing and moving away due to drought and
difficulties of life</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-wealth measured by number
of cows and number of children</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-no divorce allowed, can
have as many wives as they please or can afford</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-warriors fighting other
tribes means excess of women more than men </span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-circumcision happens at
15 and is an initiation in to manhood and warrior status, quite a ceremony
obviously</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-one of the initiation
ceremonies was the killing of a lion with a spear, stopped 25 years ago</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-Maasai do not believe in
an after life</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-believe elderly should be
cared for by extended family to end of life so they can die happily and
peacefully</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-they see big changes
ahead</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Following lunch we get
visited by 10 lady elders all dressed up in their garb</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi02LOQHebHaMHWgA_AXDFKmsXJ30tvzWeiYL1EpTAteCWVunZmJ3eFGV1NNipzQMQFFNUu9Ov4uUDVlkFIhqxRoKOfDuE7G5ZQsbbiWcUpai_g1IX1U29nkazP89IEN7I6_I-Yt9qMRoLG/s1600/missive6f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi02LOQHebHaMHWgA_AXDFKmsXJ30tvzWeiYL1EpTAteCWVunZmJ3eFGV1NNipzQMQFFNUu9Ov4uUDVlkFIhqxRoKOfDuE7G5ZQsbbiWcUpai_g1IX1U29nkazP89IEN7I6_I-Yt9qMRoLG/s1600/missive6f.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-women get married off at
15-18; usually the father finds a husband for her; this process is in the midst
of change due to modernity</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-honeymoon is over after
the first night</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-respect for your husband
comes first, hopefully love comes later</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-none of them can read;
estimate ages 40's to 60's</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-notice they all have
lovely white teeth when they smile; men chew some kind of aphrodisiac so their
teeth look pretty rotten and awful</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-typical day starts at 4
am and finishes at 10 pm; prepare tea, milk cows, release cows and goats, take
donkey to get water, get bush for firewood, get kids off to school, do laundry
and house work, prepare meals</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-when asked what the men
do answer was bring home money and food, in other words not much, lots of
sitting around</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-wish the men would fetch
water and help with laundry but never would</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-unfairness part of their
culture</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-nature controls how many
kids they have</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">- young boys help with
herding, girls with sweeping and housework</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-school 7 am to 3 pm
includes the walking</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-Hiv has not come here yet</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-boys and girls are
increasingly choosing a mate on their own by passing the older custom</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-families in the process
of becoming smaller due to drought, fewer cattle and the expense of schooling</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Evening walk to a Maasai village, most interesting; we go
into 4 little homes, shacks really, take pics, ask questions and generally get
a great insight into their lifestyle. Helge has lived right here in this
village for a month back in 2001. While we are first time visitors and a
little taken aback by the rudimentary way of life he has a different
perspective from long years of experience travelling in Africa. He feels that
the people are doing just fine, they are coping well, living simply but happy
and uncomplicated lives. He is an enthusiastic supporter of their lifestyle.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXSzaujbkYvCU2RTYqQw-RXH6_wVEqs587CiIh2umIZg6c3dHSLbKLFq_aZldcNXCcVcVPQdVYgentAgBtZvcz1VLYtRnY3N1rabzxRYuvJ4jpALlBubYDLIbkyYL1x0KXpAA1Q42oicO/s1600/missive6g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieXSzaujbkYvCU2RTYqQw-RXH6_wVEqs587CiIh2umIZg6c3dHSLbKLFq_aZldcNXCcVcVPQdVYgentAgBtZvcz1VLYtRnY3N1rabzxRYuvJ4jpALlBubYDLIbkyYL1x0KXpAA1Q42oicO/s1600/missive6g.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Serious problems could be on the horizon though. The
terrible years long drought is eroding their ability to make a living which is
based on raising cattle and goats and the more the better. However, it is very
difficult to continue this tradition in the present circumstances.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">To make matters more difficult, the tradition of having as
many children as possible is coming in to jeopardy because of the demands and
costs of education. While a Maasai's wealth is measured in how many cattle and
kids you have (but you can't ask them how many of each or what their age is
because it is bad luck and they apparently don't know!!??), this whole concept
will be undergoing a profound change in the next generations.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">One last neat little anecdote. Out of nowhere comes this
sweet, sweet little girl, 12 years old (she will be married off at 15-18 for
goodness sakes to a much older man) speaking near perfect english. Mister, are
you the soccer ball man, yes, well we need another ball, why, because the big
kids have gone off with the one at the school and the little kids need one too.
How do you say no to that so my second to last ball was donated right there.
She was a precocious little thing with great eye contact, determined and has a
future in sales for sure.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 35, Sat, Feb 18th</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Merrueshi Maasai Village to Serena Mountain Lodge, Kenya,
319 km</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Could not leave without giving Kakutu an important tip. He
is married to a white Seattle girl and they have a 17, 11 and 6 year old living
there so he travels back and forth. I said <span style="line-height: initial;">you
need to invest in a slow cooker. The meat is so tough and chewy and I can't
stand the stuff. If he cooked it long and slow in a stew it would be just fine!
Kakutu agreed 100% so I hope he follows up on this for the sake of his future
customers. I also invited him and his family to come to Victoria for a visit
some time.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Clutch out at 7:30 to navigate the sandy bit at the start.
I follow Gary and help him pick up his bike part way through; 3.5 km journey
and I am getting better with the slippy slidy stuff but a few adrenaline
moments myself.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The journey is not long
but we hit traffic like you wouldn't believe, bumper to bumper and a Saturday
to boot. You get good at maneuvering up the center lane or taking the the
pedestrian side when things get really slow. Several times I had to hit the
brakes hard and be prepared to ditch the bike with oncoming traffic getting a
bit too aggressive.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">The closer we got to
Nairobi (we were on the Mombasa to Nairobi highway) the worse it got. You just
have to adjust and get on with it. My bike is screaming quick so you can get
places fast between convoys, actually quite fun.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Circling Nairobi and thank
goodness we did not have to go right in, we kept running in to these huge speed
bumps right on 3 lane divided highways for petes sakes! Vehicles have to slow
down to a crawl on 70 mph freeways which is crazy with huge back ups and my
panniers are too wide to negotiate in between lanes.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">The Serena Mountain Lodge
is an idyllic place way up in the mountains and we will be here two nights and
explore tomorrow.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">With all of the traffic
and congestion and inning and outing I only got here an hour and 19 minutes
before Simon (Peterson), Waan and the chase vehicle.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Big news today is that
Chris Banks and Jackie are joining us for dinner and two over nights from their
home in Nairobi so really looking forward to that and I have a Globeriders 'T'
shirt for him. I am hoping that he can take Waan to the airport for her late
evening flight back to Bangkok (bringing 15 socccer balls, wanted 30 but they
are pretty expensive here at 20 bucks US a pop).</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">We have had a superlative
time with the piped in girls who have meshed very well with our group. Danielle
(Aaron), Carolyn (Mac), Lisa (Helge) and Waan have really added to the joy of
our trip and given poor, out numbered Debbie (Harrison) a good break from all
of the male companionship! I cannot really describe in words how important it
is for a team to jell well together. We were doing great before they arrived
and they just added immeasurably to everything.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">A few comment about the
riders:</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-Harrison, always jovial and cracking jokes and light hearted insults,
keeps everyone in stitches. He spent 3 years logging in Liberia until there was
a big change in government and he had to bail so tons of stories about that. He
has been on just about all of Helge's trip after not even starting riding until
2005; they keep two bikes in Germany and ride all around Europe so
would like to follow in those foot steps too.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Debbie, married to
Harrison, just a terrific gal, rolls with the punches, adores the ground
Harrison walks on, good rider, good story teller, great to have on the trip.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Gary, 74, big guy,
ex-ships captain, loves to laugh and tease, been on lots of Helge's trips,
delightful man and really puts the pedal to the </span><span style="line-height: initial;">metal and refuses to admit his age.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Dean, 71, Japanese
American in the event business, expert hang glider been to 14,000 feet and
about 3500 flights, quiet man but very stable and loves to enjoy the repartee
from the sidelines.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Mac, 69 on Monday, just
joined us from Nairobi, was on the Silk Road with me and says I am the reason
he is on this one as we had a lot of fun together and love to kibbitz; Mac is
a good rider and has been on lots of Helge's trips.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Tom, 58, one of our best
riders, loves to go fast; he is the hare of the group, always late for
meetings, intelligent, speaks his mind, lots of fun to have around; he came
late to the Maasai elders meeting and his first question to the old guy way
what's that hanging from your ear, snuff, okay you better have a sniff, okay
fine, 3 big sniffs later he is almost passing out from the high up his nose;
obviously a good sport!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Steve, 58, best off
roader, quiet, thoughtful, considerate, serious, steady, some medical issues
but fights through them, a bit of a loner, sees things from a different angle,
great roomate and guy to have along, steady as they go type.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Aaron, 48, all dressed in
yellow from top to bottom, handles our bar bills (considerable!) in an exemplary
manner, great rider, very mellow guy, free thinker and wants to settle for a
few years in every country we have been to, loves Africa.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Joe, 42, big guy, very
cerebral, loves his reading material and I have shared all of mine with him
that he gobbles up, great rider, quiet, thoughtful, has everything thought
through including making his bike into an almost stealth vehicle, ready for all
eventualities.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">So there you have the gang
all in a nutshell and you have heard enough about Helge. I am not necessarily
the worst rider just the least experienced.</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
36, Sun, Feb 19th</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Serena
Mountain Lodge</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Yesterday
was a largely uneventful day but still newsworthy!</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After
breakfast we went on a nature walk until just before lunch. We were treated to
all sorts of fascinating insights into the rain forest surrounding us right
below massive Mt. Kenya- fig trees and how they germinate and slowly strangle
their inside tree with its massive vines; all sorts of dung droppings and how
various insects make use of it. Our leader was very well informed and
accompanied by a guard armed with a high powered weapon for protection.</span></div>
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The
rest of the day was relaxing and pleasant. Late in the afternoon Chris Banks,
our chase vehicle guide Simon Peterson and I were sitting up in the viewing
area having a beer and chatting. Simon at 29 is wise way beyond his years,
gifted really. Chris has an encyclopedic knowledge of wildlife and all things
Africa. For over an hour I was enthralled listening to them trade stories and ideas
back and forth. It was a special moment for me.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Then,
suddenly, there were two (giant eagle) owls in the trees at a distance of maybe
200 feet; then they were mating, wow and we were the bystanders! Simon has this
Canon 65X zoom camera and I was able to look at them close up. The crowning
moment was when one of them flew closer down to the waters edge of the pond. He
had a large frog in his mouth! Then, simple as can be, he flips it lengthways
in his mouth and swallows it whole! It was a another neat moment.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Last
thing. Early morning about 4 am we awake to hear and watch 14 elephants at the
watering hole outside our bedroom window. There they are all grumbling, eating,
drinking and one or two roaring at each other, pretty cool.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
37, Mon, Feb 20th</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Serena
Mountain Lodge to Nomad's Trail Hotel, Marsabit, 409 km</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
girls have departed, Carolyn, Danielle and Waan back to Nairobi courtesy of
Chris and Jackie. Waan will catch a midnight flight to Bangkok approx 10 hours.
They all had a blast.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
started at 7000' and 12.5 degrees and worked our way lower and an increase in
temperature to low 30's. It was a nice road, a little windy and I saw my first
camels. I stopped to leave a bottle of water for a woman with her kid and take
a quick pic of their colourful attire.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Also
went by the equator which was kind of a small thrill.<br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
A
little further on I stop again at the 'supposed' Merille River and it is
completely dry which is evidence of the deplorable drought conditions up here.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
get to this flea bag place and now I know why Helge told us to bring sink
stoppers, lucky we are only here one night and I may sleep in my clothes!
Tomorrow we cross the border into Ethiopia which is an exciting prospect.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgojlYCkfgpgQ5BN1eE9xoAzGqpo3FRqaTKomU-cuqeie1VbTTU9-dkWTmT1C9zgN91fpw-osZTZLTE_IhbqqG-yDmqUQf2HlPTaVnmH28mCaMPcI_OSvf8gEUrw-FBSpvbv5LNLIsltbQg/s1600/missive6p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgojlYCkfgpgQ5BN1eE9xoAzGqpo3FRqaTKomU-cuqeie1VbTTU9-dkWTmT1C9zgN91fpw-osZTZLTE_IhbqqG-yDmqUQf2HlPTaVnmH28mCaMPcI_OSvf8gEUrw-FBSpvbv5LNLIsltbQg/s1600/missive6p.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
38, Tue, Feb 28th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Nomads
Trail Hotel, Marsabit, Kenya to Yabello Hotel, Yabello, Ehthiopia, 450 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Woke
for the call to prayer at 5 am but did not participate; it was about time to
rise anyway; after a quick snack we hit the road heading for the border and I
make the following observations:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-lots
and lots of police security up here in the north - checkpoints and armed people</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-tons
of livestock on and off the highway with a lot of women looking out for them</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-camels
in the majority, seems to make sense with the scarcity of water- apparently
used for meat, milk and work related</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-many
sad villages with abundance of circular yirts with various colours of plastic
attempting to provide shelter from the elements (thatch timexed)</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6euFkBSQV_llgnd0HmgjFV72awfeLxvUJRH4RTSmFXbk7ge38_8ABfyzn0JbnD8Yyo-alMwz3hUSHuZa9EKzBamYfH7VjJ43uCjvZoUsTGJ23qYBITdFCkT7qW6STPtO1kCd14xFJ14jR/s1600/missive6q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6euFkBSQV_llgnd0HmgjFV72awfeLxvUJRH4RTSmFXbk7ge38_8ABfyzn0JbnD8Yyo-alMwz3hUSHuZa9EKzBamYfH7VjJ43uCjvZoUsTGJ23qYBITdFCkT7qW6STPtO1kCd14xFJ14jR/s1600/missive6q.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-donkeys
coming and going laden with large water jugs</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-no
power in villages</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-due
to lack of water very few bugs</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-it
was windy again but the road is new and first rate</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
get to the Ethiopian border and chaos ensues, tons of people everywhere; we
actually got through quite quickly except for one problem: they have our
'carnet de passage' which we need to enter and exit every country as proof of
continuing motorcycle ownership on our journey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_b2DrVxRdxD7tL7U8ZeaGe0jrTQU5szAh_ejg7XzUQe1OwPOonxBzYgeKpK5hzvsy05-euWJuHnksrK-NWN2YmyoOvd348a37U5-iKvd3b1DUwBjo86AOkCYEFsDlzRlIO2eTjVobN6Q/s1600/missive6r.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3_b2DrVxRdxD7tL7U8ZeaGe0jrTQU5szAh_ejg7XzUQe1OwPOonxBzYgeKpK5hzvsy05-euWJuHnksrK-NWN2YmyoOvd348a37U5-iKvd3b1DUwBjo86AOkCYEFsDlzRlIO2eTjVobN6Q/s1600/missive6r.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">As
Mac says 'welcome to somewhere'!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Altho'
the pasage through the border was relatively smooth we got held up for over 4
hours with the Carnet; arrived at their office to find they were closed for
lunch until 2; we then had to go through laborious paperwork and bike
inspections in the hot sun with gawkers all over the place.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
got away at 4:30 in the nick of time to make the 200 km journey to the Yabello
Hotel before dark- due to livestock on the road in the late afternoon it is not
advisable to travel after dark.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
screamed down the great road at 140 keeping pace with fast Joe; it was lots of
fun to zoom. However, there is risk associated because animals wild and
domestic can snooker you in a hurry and your ability to maneuver at high speed
is much reduced.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
got to the hotel feeling great and 7 minutes later Gary shows up. He has a BMW
800, chain driven, can only make an honest 120. That sold me for good and what
I already knew. Racing around at high speed really doesn't get you very far
very fast. Why take the risk for a few lousy minutes?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
I
have to relay the Gazebo story; it would make the funniest home videos for
sure it was that funny. I was there early with Aaron and Joe, lots of gawkers,
bike location looks sketchy; Aaron decides to drive his bike down a narrow
pathway to his room and gets stuck. Zoom, zoom, zoom behind a tree, what's the
noise about, we go look and he is stuck in a deep hole spinning his back tire
like bejesus to get out, feeling embarrassed. I help him reverse and he jumps
the hole and heads along to his room only to come face to face with this
1" tubing metal gazebo so in he goes. Quick as a flash he is stuck again
perfectly, can't go forward, can't go back. We all laugh like hell at his
predicament! Finally he removes his panniers and gets himself released.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPCLqN1Cn0bnSMDTjJtz3KSGa1vb3pgjvmyq2EXUryTak2dn9M3X54TkflJqOhvwIjuJx-LV0jstsCmGvRtJE1hyw8AB-G5fWeWm_6rKiGEW165AQZ1mdnlds5W2gKLcvPyxtF0vH-ZE1s/s1600/missive6s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPCLqN1Cn0bnSMDTjJtz3KSGa1vb3pgjvmyq2EXUryTak2dn9M3X54TkflJqOhvwIjuJx-LV0jstsCmGvRtJE1hyw8AB-G5fWeWm_6rKiGEW165AQZ1mdnlds5W2gKLcvPyxtF0vH-ZE1s/s1600/missive6s.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Our
new guide is Fasil and the driver is Abebe.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
39, Wed, Feb 22nd</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Yabello
Hotel to Awassa, Ethiopia, 295 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It
feels great to be in this lovely country and we are all excited about it; only
trouble is, there is no gas around, most of the stations are empty and we don't
know why.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSXnyUXVjjtdipcA2MnJbcu9DmumPMsVZP_c9ZTJUDVuYZKfRRoPYdUueb5EeN1FN5Mz_9jBqYv6twe0sYbaMmYN7H6dW1i-gPePU_eo_Pbvbk1f0Qel9SPEuHS7gi357OhXf6Fcj8knN/s1600/missive6t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbSXnyUXVjjtdipcA2MnJbcu9DmumPMsVZP_c9ZTJUDVuYZKfRRoPYdUueb5EeN1FN5Mz_9jBqYv6twe0sYbaMmYN7H6dW1i-gPePU_eo_Pbvbk1f0Qel9SPEuHS7gi357OhXf6Fcj8knN/s1600/missive6t.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I found out about a black market village outlet and head up there at 6:30 am and buy 10
liters out of 2 litre plastic jugs; very interesting watching this sleepy
little village waking in the morning with all the goings on.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
is a tough tough day due to highway construction. Half the trip is on amazing
highway, the other half, well just imagine how bad it could be then double it.
Pot holes, dust, traffic, equipment all over, I left at 7:30 and did not get
in until after 3. We are all filthy and tired but exhilarated and the bikes
performed amazingly on the rough roads, great fun actually despite the
challenge.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Some
observations:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-very
interesting and different termite mounds, literally thousands of them with
long, long chimneys, very complicated and I want to learn more about this when
I get home</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSeh6n1fh54wEhtpF3WSW70lES4Hyhf122u9QlJch5XncnxFQVm_RCFdLOUQc9HuWCzrqFwZIYsgE9ducZpl0tkiCGcJBu9JYoKwQ8CD2GTp0lOoeWr-95Hsg5A9NR-LSR7mOV5Cutp2b/s1600/missive6u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSeh6n1fh54wEhtpF3WSW70lES4Hyhf122u9QlJch5XncnxFQVm_RCFdLOUQc9HuWCzrqFwZIYsgE9ducZpl0tkiCGcJBu9JYoKwQ8CD2GTp0lOoeWr-95Hsg5A9NR-LSR7mOV5Cutp2b/s1600/missive6u.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-women
do not carry anything on their heads, first country out of seven; they have
nice features and are more fully breasted than further south (sorry but I do
notice!); also some pregnancies observed</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vX5_qfVDkXBhZ_fXG_QbBBOp43U3_SVTFxUajKUh-Po01RGS_CYTUFO0Z08tSb3pITtB0Z720OsONxAaeiCu8yFSn-Fu4K1jz0PBKtLchIBnqpPon9zP5uCNqyQMCjiK_v8Zx8AzUkun/s1600/missive6v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1vX5_qfVDkXBhZ_fXG_QbBBOp43U3_SVTFxUajKUh-Po01RGS_CYTUFO0Z08tSb3pITtB0Z720OsONxAaeiCu8yFSn-Fu4K1jz0PBKtLchIBnqpPon9zP5uCNqyQMCjiK_v8Zx8AzUkun/s1600/missive6v.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
-men
are taller and darker skinned if that is possible</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-like
other country's we see no or very few marked graveyards</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-speed
bumps are either non existent or very tame; --due to the lack of electricity,
no traffic signals and traffic police handle busy intersections</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-no
one uses head lights, like no one so you can see fellow bikers immediately in
your mirrors</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-we
travel up hill to 7000' and down dale in beautiful countryside, absolutely
lovely especially compared to the volcanic desolate northern Kenya</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
hesitate to say this and it is not everywhere of course but in quite a few of
the villages I do not believe that the residents live much better than the
livestock they tend</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-numerous
tall stick dwellings apparently disperses heat well; also, some families live
above with animals below to protect against foxes and hyenas</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-there
are many, many (how many times do I have to say many to make my point?) idle
young men around, a crying shame; is it their culture, are they lazy, is there
no work, it is quite amazing how prevalent this problem is- well over half
doing diddly squat</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-
our guide is Faisil who you have to listen to closely but actually makes a lot
of sense; he thinks that most of them are layabouts and could be doing
something more useful with their time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">So here we are on in
Awassa at this lovely hotel right on a large lake thoroughly enjoying our well
earned late afternoon rest before dinner!</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0gkhKOfcmxxO2_g19jCF4UlSHjItjjR3wms6i9lvhCQyayrjW9EF9ahSuOltJDKp0HuRUdvVpobLn9SZEeZyeCD6uUaU_idIRYxribL6wv0vQ8OsZdlsZrFEjnxZmnzEPp8E6rtLWFGv/s1600/missive6w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp0gkhKOfcmxxO2_g19jCF4UlSHjItjjR3wms6i9lvhCQyayrjW9EF9ahSuOltJDKp0HuRUdvVpobLn9SZEeZyeCD6uUaU_idIRYxribL6wv0vQ8OsZdlsZrFEjnxZmnzEPp8E6rtLWFGv/s1600/missive6w.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
40, Thur, Feb 23rd</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Haile
Resort, Awassa to Jupiter Int'l Hotel, Addis Ababa, 299 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> Another
day in Ethiopia, one of nine while we traverse this varied topography and
interesting people. Every time I stop there is a surrounding of inquisitive eye
balls, all very respectful. How much, how many horsepower, how fast etc., etc.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mac
and I head early to the fish market with the chase vehicle, too bad the
others missed out on this local bit of commercialism because it was a beehive
of activity.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPtGPjVKiH6p_rqmRE7ZNLIIhtN3f-Ufcnno8MU-Fuk3XlfIWLlKFJyX6KuMwhWaKMGhNh1ENLSSJWIGaMgn43H3aPTWs1RJoI9AjQP6kwMrRM8t0r0Zm0ZYT5AgThQOYdUoyr0kUjD28t/s1600/missive6x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPtGPjVKiH6p_rqmRE7ZNLIIhtN3f-Ufcnno8MU-Fuk3XlfIWLlKFJyX6KuMwhWaKMGhNh1ENLSSJWIGaMgn43H3aPTWs1RJoI9AjQP6kwMrRM8t0r0Zm0ZYT5AgThQOYdUoyr0kUjD28t/s1600/missive6x.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Then
we made our way to this art museum headed up by a 65 year old guy called Bandi.
He is recognized as the #1 banana peel artist in the world and it is quite
stunning the colourful stuff he can create. He is a Rastafarian and was born in
St. Vincent Jamaica and has lived here for the past 23 years.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEAwFBqcuNJ1JgZyJYpDQOGiVbMhKBS7C-rmeW4N_CgkjgSfuLx6yq1GPfbYpH_WF0tmevISDn-WjJm-Lf12jzy5Z1TcgEb_lX_SeRCjm3HdoOvPT-DLH6y4r9XyaeB4dOHUaKXmxCNvb/s1600/missive6y.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEAwFBqcuNJ1JgZyJYpDQOGiVbMhKBS7C-rmeW4N_CgkjgSfuLx6yq1GPfbYpH_WF0tmevISDn-WjJm-Lf12jzy5Z1TcgEb_lX_SeRCjm3HdoOvPT-DLH6y4r9XyaeB4dOHUaKXmxCNvb/s1600/missive6y.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Rastafarian
stands for a way of life, caring and sharing. Bandi is a very gentle sort, very
at peace and I was taken by him and his artwork so Mac and I each bought a little
wall art souvenir.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Emperor
Haile Salassie (1892-1975; ruled Ethiopia 1930-74) came to Jamaica in 1965.
They had had a drought for years and as soon as he arrived the rains started.
He has been hailed as a saviour ever since and credited as one of the founders
of Rastafarianism. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
day was only 300 klics on tarmac so we were in no hurry and wanted to take in
the available sights. Our next stop up the road was a UN world heritage sight
depicting some 13th century gravesites that are quite well preserved. Along
with a simple museum it was a worthwhile stop but please understand that these
stops are all pretty rudimentary in the scheme of things.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZT-XYvhFYrClSFe7G95Kcwc5wdpFm4U1z5vYSEHPvk9iIzw_Dp6xqp68PcHkU0NHNzXXZXkGuMYNTicmWhvmBZGbNWBARuUPxJtWbV39KZ0Zw7AbN5aCgIFmtvTg7M8Uz55pYzPoaHdjA/s1600/missive6z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZT-XYvhFYrClSFe7G95Kcwc5wdpFm4U1z5vYSEHPvk9iIzw_Dp6xqp68PcHkU0NHNzXXZXkGuMYNTicmWhvmBZGbNWBARuUPxJtWbV39KZ0Zw7AbN5aCgIFmtvTg7M8Uz55pYzPoaHdjA/s1600/missive6z.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In
closing, let me make the following observations:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">-my riding and balance
skills are getting razor sharp; whether it is good roads or bad, I am
traversing the terrain with increasing skill and confidence. With regard to
balancing this 575 lb monster, I can wheel it around by hand with kick stand up
with no problem; the key is to not get over confident</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-there are more animals on
the road than vehicles by far; just get used to the fact that they own the road
not you; stay patient when there is no passageway through, it will clear up
eventually</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcIeE6noCfW9HfrRRseoWqISx778dDfQBQc_nXKgt7LnJV838zPDIPf8-0OApOvmED4RTK4VHOfaasHHp7dh-lw95vxo7ov4ZKzqrkhScRO6G00AmWwPAzN9CLgk8XoZcc8I6nUZqxxS1b/s1600/missive6z1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcIeE6noCfW9HfrRRseoWqISx778dDfQBQc_nXKgt7LnJV838zPDIPf8-0OApOvmED4RTK4VHOfaasHHp7dh-lw95vxo7ov4ZKzqrkhScRO6G00AmWwPAzN9CLgk8XoZcc8I6nUZqxxS1b/s1600/missive6z1.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-everyone carries a stick
or a whip even when they are not herding animals, almost like an extension of
themselves</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-the proverbial donkey is
everywhere, a real workhorse sometimes tethered in twos; taxi, freight hauler,
you name it; I get pretty used to all of this but it is still a sight to behold
when you really think about it</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjyO_ys3SmBx_oOdOdsCW_T4Qk-mRO4Z5rglMvnJEXv4dD0UDzKGxxLqYuNrYL5pFqv2zs0mWWBShbBDUZFV1ORiXc1ROilGRgiaxnSJHmq3D6ka6txjLD7iOlUHJcVcCg65pThjVBUaE/s1600/missive6z2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjyO_ys3SmBx_oOdOdsCW_T4Qk-mRO4Z5rglMvnJEXv4dD0UDzKGxxLqYuNrYL5pFqv2zs0mWWBShbBDUZFV1ORiXc1ROilGRgiaxnSJHmq3D6ka6txjLD7iOlUHJcVcCg65pThjVBUaE/s1600/missive6z2.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-wrecked cars, buses etc
from traffic accidents are just left exactly where they are to rust away; I
guess too expensive or not worthwhile to move</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-quite a few aid vehicles
and UN four by fours racing around, way more than any other country.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">It is time to get this on
the air waves and I still have pics to add...</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">NG</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">PS a quick few numbers to
consider</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">
Population. US GDP.
area sq km</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">
Billions</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">S Africa.
55.4.
384.
1219</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Namibia.
2.4.
13.
824</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Botswana.
2.1.
14.
582</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Zambia.
13.9.
21.
753</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Zimbabwe.
13.
10.
391</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Malawi.
16.
4.
118</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Tanzania.
48.
28.
947</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Kenya.
49.
41.
580</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Ethiopia.
104.
42.
1104</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Sudan.
35. 59.
1879</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Egypt.
95. 263.
1001</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br />
Total.
394.
878.
9398</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Africa
all.
1222. 2200.
30000</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Canada.
35. 1800.
9985</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Wanted
to add GDP per head but could not find anything reasonable</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-57244249103073838182017-02-15T11:00:00.000-08:002017-03-21T19:14:31.335-07:00Missive #5- wed, Feb 8th- Wed, Feb 15th<!--[if !mso]>
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<td style="padding: .75pt .75pt .75pt .75pt;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">Day 25, Wed, Feb 8th</span></span><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , sans-serif; font-size: 10.0pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Hill
View Hotel, Mbeya, Tanzania to Kisolanza Guest House, 282 km</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
have a nice hotel, no surprise, on a hill top, well fenced and secure for our
bikes; we sit down for dinner, 10 of us and it takes 3 hours to get fed and
watered, complete confusion in the kitchen but this is Africa! Five black guys
show up after us and get fed first; at least the food is good when it finally
arrives.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Joe
notices it first; we are in a different realm, busier, more stressful, people
not so friendly, all go- go in comparison to what we have been through in
Zambia and Malawi. Some observations:</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-not
as many photo ops on the highway due to too much traffic and not enough places
to safely exit</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-few
speak English altho' a mixture of English signage and local language signage
noticed (Swahili) </span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-not
many birds; more road kill and no birds to peck away</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-very
few bugs especially mosquitos (I guess they come later); windshield and face
visor stays pretty clean altho' gets dusty</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-lots
of road construction and a few detours but not a problem beyond a few ruts and
potholes</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-this
is the roadway to Dar es Salaam and they are in the midst of making it into a
first class highway</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-we
travel on a high plain area at elevations up to 6000' ASL</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-still
too many lounging young men, seems to be a way of life</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-quintessential
Africa: a woman walking down the road always with something on her head, more
than likely a large pale of water; #2: men or women separately or in small
groups going to or from the fields with the proverbial hoe on their shoulders</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-plumbing
non existent and electricity to homes is sparse but available for a price</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-bananas
are small and good, sweet</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-lots
of green foliage</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
notice quite a bit of lumber processing and lots of small service business,
mostly all a jumble</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-many
motorbikes are employed as taxis</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-we
travel in balmy 23.5 weather</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Some
bike related stuff:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-peeing
on the route; most guys park their bikes and scramble into the bushes; I park
my bike and while slowly removing my helmet and gloves get my business done
right beside my machine, much quicker and more efficient!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
need to get better at watching my rear view mirrors as vehicles sometimes sneak
up on me unnoticed</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the
best way to travel is with two fingers on the clutch and two on the front brake
at all times; need to get better at this habit too</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-need
to improve my coordination changing gears while standing on the pegs</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
have finally ordered myself to wear my customized ear plugs when riding to
block out peripheral wind noise and save my hearing; one more good habit to get
used to</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
like to honk twice when passing trucks for acknowledgment; similarly for
friendliness a two fingered left hand signal when passing small motorbikes is
kind of nice too</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-by
the way, we have been left hand driving all the way so far</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-my
Garmin 5 works great; you cancel the previous day's route and plug in the next
one, very efficient </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-got
stopped for speeding today, 95 in a 50 zone; could easily have been a 160 zone;
cost 30,000 shillings which sounds a lot but was about $20</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pic</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the
faster you go the harder you hit pot holes; some of their speed bumps sneak up
on you too and they can be like climbing a small hill.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
get to this Shangri La called Kisolanza, quite, quite wonderful. The
proprietor is a woman in her 60's called Nicky so we have something in common
already. Her grandparents came in the 1930's and it is a working 2000 acre farm
with 400 cattle and 400 grazing sheep. They also grow all sorts of interesting
stuff employing 150-200 in the off season and double that when they are
busy. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPBjNCfiJFIxgNNfSPprMHqI5-1XlO7m_K6xf1k7BHOAH9t27VPg0Y3u5qP1hBYZCayedmVIk7XwnyfkIoJ6jm6BKp1IAHfoM0D3qs1CcDkwOnEehVzGQr16KK8-vYQBuQ66PDeczsVvHG/s1600/missive5a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPBjNCfiJFIxgNNfSPprMHqI5-1XlO7m_K6xf1k7BHOAH9t27VPg0Y3u5qP1hBYZCayedmVIk7XwnyfkIoJ6jm6BKp1IAHfoM0D3qs1CcDkwOnEehVzGQr16KK8-vYQBuQ66PDeczsVvHG/s1600/missive5a.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYyv3ICCIM_TC5OPUpXz8MwVn8Le4rA1_C-6Gjou3xg_NGpRUoFQHbmoLtX1X8HMrZ8yNWcVlfYMbZXTjyFYtQTd6pOPuw-nT0hkIn7hymk6YVip2TnyChc5DQu8NYVYRa7STWhWj-xla/s1600/missive5b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYyv3ICCIM_TC5OPUpXz8MwVn8Le4rA1_C-6Gjou3xg_NGpRUoFQHbmoLtX1X8HMrZ8yNWcVlfYMbZXTjyFYtQTd6pOPuw-nT0hkIn7hymk6YVip2TnyChc5DQu8NYVYRa7STWhWj-xla/s1600/missive5b.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br />
</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0oDjz_C2fvEpEqRbQ0qQuuXU5rvRLctWqVGFb5vDYtH8zWQZpYTv1VxWPsjUcNYIjftaZwuxnJWK3yRY7mc_qpzCYSkzN5CSbOAe2dXLOtmo4JTkGjEdrkMp8-ZqXa_qhI0_F-TBt6aL_/s1600/missive5c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0oDjz_C2fvEpEqRbQ0qQuuXU5rvRLctWqVGFb5vDYtH8zWQZpYTv1VxWPsjUcNYIjftaZwuxnJWK3yRY7mc_qpzCYSkzN5CSbOAe2dXLOtmo4JTkGjEdrkMp8-ZqXa_qhI0_F-TBt6aL_/s1600/missive5c.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Two
revenue crops besides the usual tobacco and corn is stevia which is a sweetener
they export to China; another is artemesia which goes to New Zealand to aid
arthritis. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Nicky
Ghaui also has a famous sculptor and brother called Mike and I want to go and
see his gallery in Arusha if there is time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
Farm can accommodate up to 60 guests so they are heavily in to tourism. Steve
and I are staying in this lovely and quite large cabin complete with a living
room and fireplace a short roadway from the main area, very romantic but I have
the wrong partner! </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6F5K0lBiWrRGUV6986_C_2txIYCp6Ev5ClEUmisPO1GJmturNu_iMdn_N_e5z7JanCyQADEGSXzznGQ28srUV9TVKHFZKiLLtOBl_iEYwYehQOekhdGor8-XqRPOQ0fZzxizXsrdlG6b/s1600/missive5d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT6F5K0lBiWrRGUV6986_C_2txIYCp6Ev5ClEUmisPO1GJmturNu_iMdn_N_e5z7JanCyQADEGSXzznGQ28srUV9TVKHFZKiLLtOBl_iEYwYehQOekhdGor8-XqRPOQ0fZzxizXsrdlG6b/s1600/missive5d.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Nicky
really likes my car rental idea but says that the best turn around place is
Arusha; you then fly the short distance to Zanzibar to by pass the traffic
congestion in the big cities before going home.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
have said our fond good byes to Andy who has been our competent tour assistant
since Cape Town and tonight we dine with our new tour guide Simon K. Simon is a
52 year old Masai tribesman, he has two wives, six kids and I can already tell
is a good story teller.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqy-SrgMRwBsdmSv0WFQOvgRgdJ92yNFMMpm5Uf01tV-W9KgquNPzKAqhQ6o1zrHXrbZwVb9Lp_7nMOAiDqMJkY9jNGNmWjmo84zlqWezU7TcDwSs-Ru1PqcE-uO_5BSwgPYNNoDdQHqH/s1600/missive5e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvqy-SrgMRwBsdmSv0WFQOvgRgdJ92yNFMMpm5Uf01tV-W9KgquNPzKAqhQ6o1zrHXrbZwVb9Lp_7nMOAiDqMJkY9jNGNmWjmo84zlqWezU7TcDwSs-Ru1PqcE-uO_5BSwgPYNNoDdQHqH/s1600/missive5e.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
26, Thur, Feb 9th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Kisolanza
Guest House to New Dodoma Hotel, Dodoma, 314 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
sleep in a bit and head east for Irina which has quite a prosperous feel to it
relatively speaking and then left for the hills to Dodoma. We have quite the
exciting ride on a brand new Chinese built road that has lots of sharp twisties
requiring shifting to third and sometimes second gear; lots of fun. We are at
quite high elevation and descend to about 2000' ASL where it gets pretty hot
again.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYBrcE5_7BMqO47VLZGCMaNKJhIneeHLReWHAsF0ouhldpLziQ3dQBvTCJDaj-s8W1QsmgRLXtBLkQkj76E6nxpLCtPXOVnpOQfyswDPdKSSO_kXvKmRkS4dKC44TZB44Rywq5oOEMOnZe/s1600/missive5g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYBrcE5_7BMqO47VLZGCMaNKJhIneeHLReWHAsF0ouhldpLziQ3dQBvTCJDaj-s8W1QsmgRLXtBLkQkj76E6nxpLCtPXOVnpOQfyswDPdKSSO_kXvKmRkS4dKC44TZB44Rywq5oOEMOnZe/s1600/missive5g.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Some observations:</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">-truckers are usually
pretty helpful by signaling with a left hand turn signal that it is safe to
pass and a right hand one if it is not</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-when there is an accident
a bunch of branches are cut down from nearby trees and scattered on the road to
let motorists know there is a problem, pretty efficient system actually</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-the many, many 50 kmph
speed limits in small towns need watching carefully and not only for speed
traps; the large sized speed bumps, usually three, could knockyou off your bike
at high speed</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-we noticed lots of finely
robed and macheted Masai tribesmen in the mountains herding their livestock;
-there is a huge drought going on in this area, quite serious actually and a
change from where we're were in previous weeks</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-there are gigantic sized
hydro towers leading all over the place; we fineally crossed the source, a
hydro electric dam of some size; only problem is, not enough water to run it
properly!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Problem with Steve today;
he has been suffering from diarrhea the last day or so and got very
dehydrated; he stopped suddenly 40 klics from Dodoma in a paralytic state and
collapsed in a ditch after parking his bike. I raced ahead and got Helge and
Joe to come back to get his bike, Gary stayed with him and Simon eventually
caught up in the chase vehicle to take him to hospital.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">He was pretty sick and
needed 3.5 litres of IV to partially restore him. Helge was pissed that he
allowed himself to get that far gone and still ride so he will get a talking to
when he recovers; still need to decide what happens for tomorrow.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">T</span><span style="line-height: initial;">hat's about it for today.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
27, Fri, Feb 10</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">New
Dodoma Hotel to Ango Hotel, Babati, Tanzania, 400 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Was
glad to be encircled in mosquito netting as a few critters trying to get at me
last night; they are small, noisy and move quickly; am faithfully taking my
maladrone pill every morning.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Another
day on the road, not too eventful:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-have
seen virtually zero solar panels anywhere on the whole trip and wonder why</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-interesting
in this land of infinite young people that I have yet to see a pregnant woman
anywhere, other guys observe the same and wonder why also</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-lots
of women on the side of the road waiting for truckers to stop; this is a huge
cause of the unfortunate spread of the aids virus, sad</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-there
are lots of Muslims around this area</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-a
few schools here and there, few soccer ball opportunities</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the
exchange rate is 2200 shillings per US$ so we are dealing in large amounts all
the time</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the
lack of productivity of the male species likely means that everyone is pretty
relaxed, in a good space and uncaring about tomorrow ie. satisfied with their
lot in life; not sure if this is good or bad</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-meet
a nice guy running a grocery store who speaks perfect english with the
following info:</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbZMN0EXgcuO_LZp1X9x7VQ8AOcbMOz8MYGSVl8WKVEtLQ3ymSRuQ0aiXd-u2t3keMem6xfptzCRcOquwgZMAzZ8BfYQowcfA9ISqYfBOWeZHdk6GkiLhtgVGdPVge0RtTUCQAzxOoNFvm/s1600/missive5i.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbZMN0EXgcuO_LZp1X9x7VQ8AOcbMOz8MYGSVl8WKVEtLQ3ymSRuQ0aiXd-u2t3keMem6xfptzCRcOquwgZMAzZ8BfYQowcfA9ISqYfBOWeZHdk6GkiLhtgVGdPVge0RtTUCQAzxOoNFvm/s1600/missive5i.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-90% of Tanzanians have Swahili as a mother
tongue</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"> -goods and sales tax is 18%</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"> -Arusha has a popn of 1.5mm while
Dodomo the recently appointed capital from Dar es Salaam is about 800k</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"> -it was honey that I saw being marketed at
many road side stands in one village</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"> -the famous tree with the gargantuan trunk
and small canopy is called the Baobob tree</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"> -the cultivation around here is a lot of
corn, rice and sun flower seeds.</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We travel mostly in 22-24 degree balmy weather with
countryside that gets increasingly more interesting as we close in on our
lovely hotel in Babati, 175 km from Arusha where we down tools and begin our
safari experience.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">2:18 to 2:24; I am feeling decidedly puckish and
pull off to a safe place to hang my head for a cat nap sitting on my bike,
quite comfortable actually. I am briefly aware of the sound of a small herd of
cows ambling by me eating their cud and shuffling along; 3 bikes go racing by,
waking me up. I look around and am surrounded by curious on lookers wondering
about the who, what, where, when business so I smile, wave and press on, quite
refreshed actually. It is extremely important to recognize the signals of
fatigue and take a rest when necessary.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Steve is feeling better, made the easy trip
under Helge's guidance and here we are at our lovely lodgings in the middle of
nowhere.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day 28, Sat, Feb 11th</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Ango Hotel, Babati to The New Arusha Hotel, Tanzania,
175 km</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Short trip in on a picture perfect road. Passed untold
numbers of safari vehicles crammed with tourists heading for camps for their
sanitized view of Africa.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Speaking of sanitized, I am not far removed myself, maybe a
bit ahead of the folks flying over at 35000 feet. Yes, I have seen and learned
a lot but the complexity of these societies as I drive by means that I can only
scratch the surface. </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">They work in myriad ways. Take the Masai tribesmen I pass
early in the morning in the middle of nowhere minding their herds; no canteen,
no back pack, just a stick, their machete and a colourful robe. Where do they
sleep? What do they eat? Don't know.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Compare that to our stressed out societies at home all
trying to keep up with each other and chase the almighty buck. Many are
unhappy, up to their necks in debt and feeling good about treading water.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">These tribes seem at peace with themselves and the
environment around them. They may be poor monetarily and with regard to asset
accumulation but they may be far richer in other ways. Don't know the answer to
that one either.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Witnessed many, many starving livestock driving in to Arusha
as a result of the water drought which has to be affecting the wild ones to</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Saw Mt Meru on the way in all 14,000 feet of it and thought
it was Mt. Kilimanjaro so will have to wait for that one!</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I was in the lead this morning to head into the Dorobo HQ to
change oil and get ready for our safari beginning tomorrow. Dorobo is one of
approx. 300 touring outfits all fighting for their share of the tourism dollar.
It is a several generational family concern (34 years in business, second
registered touring company in the area) with 14 vehicles and will be looking
after our group.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Finding the place was a bit of a trick as I was in the lead.
We were supposed to take the first right after this secondary airport. The
second right was some goat path so I went right on by with some guy waving
furiously at me.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In the afternoon Waan and I visited the African Cultural
Center art gallery. There should have been a cover charge, it was that good;
apparently the largest art gallery in Africa.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We oogled Mike Ghaui's beautiful paintings and sculptor
exhibits all for sale. It is so expensive you have to inquire in person; one
small rhino piece I liked was $6200 US; lots of his paintings and sculptors
were over $100k.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day 29, Sun, Feb 12th</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">New Arusha Hotel to The Wild Frontiers Lodge, Serengeti
National Park by 4X4</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After a 2 hour plus ride departing at 6 am we get to the
Ngorongoro Crater which is an approx 20 km diameter crater with 50,000 animals
living in very rich grasslands. The short and skinny is that we saw 4 of the
big 5- elephants, cape buffalo, rhino (6 of 26 in the area) and lions (7
of approx 60 comprising 5 prides) missing only the leopard.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A few important words about the Ngorongoro Crater (NC) which
is responsible for all of the savanah grasslands in the Masai Mara and the
Serengeti. Many millions of years ago 7 volcanoes created 7 peaks over
different time periods. This one is called a 'caldera' for the reason that it
is the only major non water filled volcano area in the world. It has collapsed
into itself and unlike most others has not filled with water thus creating the
rich diversity of wildlife we are seeing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In addition, during the eruptions the magma ash, sodium
bicarbonate which is alkali based got spread over a huge area. In time it
became brittle, rock like and encouraged the growth of grasslands and
prohibited large forest growth (hard for roots to grow) so vast plains ensued
allowing the harvest of grazing opportunity for so many species.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The NC is a magnificent flatlands surrounded by massive
hills 2000 and up to 3000 feet high from base elevation; some animals even
migrate into and out of this crater! Why they would ever want to leave given
the richness of the grazing opportunities I do not know. As opposed to being
out in the flatlands, the viewing of the surrounding area with its
topographical elevation variations is simply stunning especially in the later
afternoon with the sun creating shadows everywhere.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">For this (non) birdwatching ignoramous it is also a viewers
paradise. Our capable guide Simon identifies at least 100 species in all their
majesty of sizes, shapes and colours.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">While there are many dozens of safari vehicles around, we do
not feel crammed in at all because there is lots of space to explore. We are
in the supposedly wet, busy season as follows:</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Wet. Dec-May</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Dry. June-Nov</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Busy. July-Sept (school out), Feb</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Quiet. Mar-June; Nov-Dec</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 30, Mon, Feb 13th</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The Wild Frontiers to Flycatcher Camp, 4X4</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Our lodgings and viewpoints at Wild Frontiers on the side of
the crater were stunning and so they should be as the rack rate is $680 per
night incl three meals for two and I guess that includes a tour of the crater.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We re-traced our route back through the crater and up the
other side to the steep, steep exit. I actually buckled up with the dangerous
drive and the road was built with paving stones to accommodate the elevation
climb.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We worked our way through hours of dry, dusty grassland
outback towards the Serengeti Planes. We saw lots of Masai tribesmen in the
outback and enjoyed the village life as we proceeded.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">While we worked for our sightings, there were
many and sometimes we were just plain lucky. We ran across a small pride of 4
lions relaxing under some Acacia trees and stopped for quite awhile to observe
their antics with what looked liked full stomachs. We also enjoyed watching the
interactions and eating habits of many giraffe.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Speaking of Acacia trees, it is an indigenous tree to
Southern and Central Africa and extremely hardy, also quite lovely to look at
with its large canopy interlocking with other Acacia canopies. The tree is also
very smart. Low down it is thorny as hell and I have inadvertently scratched
myself numerous times on thorns that are far sharper than a sewing needle.
Higher up, past a giraffes reach for instance it no longer needs to protect
itself and dipsenses with the thorny part. </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Pic</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Speaking of hardy animals, take the Thomson Gazelle and
Giraffe. Both elegant creatures, they can exist for long periods without water
due to their long adaptation to the vagaries of nature. They also find moisture
in the most elusive places.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The giraffe feeds on Acacia leaves which is hard to fathom
due to the thorny nature of the tree. Their long, long tongues snake out, wrap
around the greeny parts and suck it off while eluding the thorns, amazing to
watch.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMwM10JgzLFsVu1IJHfuJH201TdL05_fJVJCLgl7f-tNT7V88_VAiHWdzLq3yfxba4LSBA20XTBLfVqkAg-nMm6fQ-wXHX1aPEDAzij1NKjEyq0-eU_HtHfghl7vKVCN8NxjeY6Y4w5yt/s1600/missive5s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMwM10JgzLFsVu1IJHfuJH201TdL05_fJVJCLgl7f-tNT7V88_VAiHWdzLq3yfxba4LSBA20XTBLfVqkAg-nMm6fQ-wXHX1aPEDAzij1NKjEyq0-eU_HtHfghl7vKVCN8NxjeY6Y4w5yt/s1600/missive5s.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Though I did not fully understand the significance of the
sighting of a Carakal cat I was soon updated by Simon. It was his best sighting
of this animal ever and he only sees a creature like this 1 in 40 outings. This
animal, about 50 lbs is characterized by the most interesting pointed and large
ears.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHViyuHhFX70t4ln5uwVQ9mRBpsfjl7aGQPf4Y8A5mXjFvvvnTkIgMU793zqunBJseDtKs7sJB4Kda9daQkGJ4R67lgimIrPt9n7C125Rs3kPE40M7M-X7_2jK_iFI9KroGjJvKAOqaS-x/s1600/missive5t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHViyuHhFX70t4ln5uwVQ9mRBpsfjl7aGQPf4Y8A5mXjFvvvnTkIgMU793zqunBJseDtKs7sJB4Kda9daQkGJ4R67lgimIrPt9n7C125Rs3kPE40M7M-X7_2jK_iFI9KroGjJvKAOqaS-x/s1600/missive5t.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The highlight of the day involved a sighting by Waan late in
the afternoon. At the 11th hour there was a low shriek from the front left
hand seat. Leopard sighting so we got the last of the big 5. It was a special
momemt and privilege to be able to see this sleek animal in its habitate. Simon
told us later that leopards are in fact far more numerous than lions but just
much more elusive, so we were all surprised to hear that.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">4+4</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPvtj1X4bm0DXWf4HpPV9YpbpwGWy1i7Usqnq4ZeP9AyGUoKkYKiF2A4vcF_iYMsmD9-hZPZW-gNqHDtrjnEqyQ8uBPqiG_jFyob1lIrvkoIGpyb8Pm85Fxa_69bEssTGJCZfOCXKDIz6D/s1600/missive5u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPvtj1X4bm0DXWf4HpPV9YpbpwGWy1i7Usqnq4ZeP9AyGUoKkYKiF2A4vcF_iYMsmD9-hZPZW-gNqHDtrjnEqyQ8uBPqiG_jFyob1lIrvkoIGpyb8Pm85Fxa_69bEssTGJCZfOCXKDIz6D/s1600/missive5u.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day 31, Tue, Feb 14th</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Flycatcher Camp to Sopa Lodge, Serengeti National Park, 4X4</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We found our camp in the Nick of time before dark last
night! Somehow the communication breakdown (this is Africa after all) did not
acknowledge that the damn camp had moved. Many back and forths, stopping at
other camps, heated discussion in Swahili and we all wondered whether we might
be over nighting in the truck.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After breakfast we proceed through an expensive ranger check
point into the Serengeti (actually called Serenget which means plain without
trees). It is dusty and rather uncomfortable due to the drought and lack of
rainfall for a long period.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The Serengeti is 15,000 square kilometres as comapred to the
NC being 8,000 which also includes a large area outside the crater.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The big deal was the Cheetah sighting, a mother and two
offspring one male and the other female. To make it even more special they are
on an extended walk, watching us closely and quite unafraid. We are transfixed.
Later in the morning we see a solo cheetah under a shaded tree but this is a
poor second to the first experience.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The only other occurrence was a quick pee stop at a new
airport strip in the middle of the Serengeti. One of the locals is playing
checkers with aluminum bottle caps on one side and plastic water bottle ones
on the other. I ask him for a game. He cleans me out four straight in short
order. Enough said!</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrRjMT_kqBI7pSub_VDQX7GudwkFYCLlx1APo6PyQeyM6_nbXLbEFUWNxHjUE07OPXEfSmJoxnU5Gu7SNl_rRRoeeFmxvCVaS56CxdhyydErIpPVvXhSIvMjs0A-hpOz3zhElWOzgssJYj/s1600/missive5x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrRjMT_kqBI7pSub_VDQX7GudwkFYCLlx1APo6PyQeyM6_nbXLbEFUWNxHjUE07OPXEfSmJoxnU5Gu7SNl_rRRoeeFmxvCVaS56CxdhyydErIpPVvXhSIvMjs0A-hpOz3zhElWOzgssJYj/s1600/missive5x.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">While the second part of the day was a bit anti climatic, it
is judged a success b<span style="line-height: initial;">y those far more
experienced than me. We see a total of 31 lions in 9 visitations; most were
lying lazily about with full stomachs and none reached the drama of the leopard
or cheetah sightings. Also, we were not able to see a full maned lion in any of
the prides</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We reach this stunning 6* hotel called Sopa Lodges later in
the afternoon all pretty dusty and ready for a swim, shower and good hair
shampoo. It is on the side of a sloping hill looking down over the Serengeti
plains. There are signs all over warning of wild animals and we are in a true
Shangrai La.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">(one funny aside: while I am picture taking on arrival I see
a safari vehicle with the door open; inside are 3 baboons making themselves at
home; I sneak up for a few pics and then shoo them away;</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3CHYL0THafOf5tneMxd2Wl8LMyZVcGBDS6HuR1m7Rp57Usl1qH7m8p6VNGhQJx-TsXtTy_grakzr5mektwtOFWC5PJlQJmKFmD-DdG15N_WwGay9aD1BOVTRBM2OkpuHcYFQdnwHKVjGg/s1600/missive5y.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3CHYL0THafOf5tneMxd2Wl8LMyZVcGBDS6HuR1m7Rp57Usl1qH7m8p6VNGhQJx-TsXtTy_grakzr5mektwtOFWC5PJlQJmKFmD-DdG15N_WwGay9aD1BOVTRBM2OkpuHcYFQdnwHKVjGg/s1600/missive5y.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 32, Wed, Feb 15th</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sopa Lodge to The New Arusha Hotel, 4X4 and charter flight</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">My favourite animal to look at is the Impala, pure beauty
and symmetry, the colours along his flank imply speed and agility; the horns
have an interesting shape and usefulness; the big chief, the alpha male
is stronger and obviously more muscular than the rest.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This morning we watched an amazing exercise. The dominant
Impala, maybe the most majestic animal for me in all of Africa was herding his
females maybe two dozen into an area getting ready for one of them to come in to
heat; at the same time he was chasing down and separating the horny younger and
smaller ones, working quite hard actually for his conquest.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHwYpCMzGekHWsK8Wt8JRNCf0zFI1asutz-_nAB_RV3aH2zcDePwS5na4U_hWdHCLW6tiF3SWRpEQ274xAzNTVH6zIh-SBX67RAUVSGBQp5UN4_SRmeucGwwuIK6-CViyDlw-HsIqxWYg/s1600/missive5z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilHwYpCMzGekHWsK8Wt8JRNCf0zFI1asutz-_nAB_RV3aH2zcDePwS5na4U_hWdHCLW6tiF3SWRpEQ274xAzNTVH6zIh-SBX67RAUVSGBQp5UN4_SRmeucGwwuIK6-CViyDlw-HsIqxWYg/s1600/missive5z.jpg" /></a></div>
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</span><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Random thoughts and observations</span></div>
</span><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="MsoNormal">
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Bird life both large and small very numerous, colorful,
nice to observe, impossible for this observer to name many species</span></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;">
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Many, many trees knocked down by elephants to eat the
foliage, quite destructive; they can eat up to 300 kg per day of green stuff; </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the g<span style="line-height: initial;">narly water the
hippos rest and crap in sure leaves a foul smell especially with the low water
drought conditions</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK5bV7RrVG00umizdyBRiw08rOfcqrfO6idTdGat6Bw4-6kWG0LDsszZXRxe_qRp9NMgqr_0cQagZdahkBDrZb9T4B35EBwtkXU1_XHjTSja9TYujAW6uCLIPF1ibLwoUKGKvmnhS1PqP2/s1600/missive5z1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK5bV7RrVG00umizdyBRiw08rOfcqrfO6idTdGat6Bw4-6kWG0LDsszZXRxe_qRp9NMgqr_0cQagZdahkBDrZb9T4B35EBwtkXU1_XHjTSja9TYujAW6uCLIPF1ibLwoUKGKvmnhS1PqP2/s1600/missive5z1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-</span><span style="line-height: initial;">Hyenas love to chew from back to front, exhibit
innocence until they open their mouths</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I am surprised about the few number of carnivore animlas
compared to the herbivore ones</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-The common Zebra about
the ugliest, least interesting of all the African animals</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-Wildebeast same; both
have to drink every day</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDMjKUAkQCyBHIhK_ZaOaE1Nm4FH8gZQe2XwgaqrFyBYiwO7uTfuYQ6Pa9qwdkUfYQKC5juKMZR2EOmHd_RSG7C5hyphenhyphenqunAFnywcDzXVJC8sZZONbqZXfL5IzaJADt3b4z1zNcgED2IuEBW/s1600/missive5z2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDMjKUAkQCyBHIhK_ZaOaE1Nm4FH8gZQe2XwgaqrFyBYiwO7uTfuYQ6Pa9qwdkUfYQKC5juKMZR2EOmHd_RSG7C5hyphenhyphenqunAFnywcDzXVJC8sZZONbqZXfL5IzaJADt3b4z1zNcgED2IuEBW/s1600/missive5z2.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Cape Buffalo, sheer power and intimidating fear even from
inside the vehicle</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_3muVc_YFJB0FsLInv-M1rabXlbJYDFuIGj6BV54-uoCsC16B1GTWNr022NvS1odbtfD9qmVYP2NdwJFTYaNZhdMgB2H5U-_HrllWHIeFZe81hpd87am0DXC2lYLqp67vfoArfzAwqBHZ/s1600/missive5z3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_3muVc_YFJB0FsLInv-M1rabXlbJYDFuIGj6BV54-uoCsC16B1GTWNr022NvS1odbtfD9qmVYP2NdwJFTYaNZhdMgB2H5U-_HrllWHIeFZe81hpd87am0DXC2lYLqp67vfoArfzAwqBHZ/s1600/missive5z3.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Lions, not very interesting for 23/24 hours a day, mostly
sleeping with a high rate of breath while they digest their over night kill</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-First thing in the morning is the best time to be out,
cooler, better lighting and lots of movement</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-The food chain is alive and well, did not see any starving
wildlife despite the severe drought; nothing, nada gets wasted</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuWAvub8mjpZLlhOvbujrel-xNxso_0_eK3pTlt2Kmr7OeWZn_GsEO8_qX8hHg2PSvzDVSNspFfEdwNylZ0N_IeIY60MSdk8g3p9k_wXHcywRKgj0IOQe7zUxGTip-K1GQcsmzBhMjUT9/s1600/missive5z4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuWAvub8mjpZLlhOvbujrel-xNxso_0_eK3pTlt2Kmr7OeWZn_GsEO8_qX8hHg2PSvzDVSNspFfEdwNylZ0N_IeIY60MSdk8g3p9k_wXHcywRKgj0IOQe7zUxGTip-K1GQcsmzBhMjUT9/s1600/missive5z4.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-when another vehicle speeds by or comes the other way, hold
your breath, close your eyes for 20 or so seconds until the dust clears</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-We start to see our first palm trees</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-We did this tour exactly
the right way; 7 of us per vehicle, lots of driving and some dust, great
scenery and countryside; repartee on board the best!</span></span></div>
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</span></span><span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We have about a 3 hour
ride through lots of wetland areas resulting in many animal sightings to finish
off a splendid time with Simon K (Siburro in Swahili); we say fond and sad
goodbyes and leave a good tip.</span></span></div>
</span></span><span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="line-height: initial;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Simon makes the 8 hour
drive home in his trusty Toyota Landcruiser which has taken a beating; we jump
on a 55 minute Cessna Caravan back to Arusha.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Tomorrow we get back on
our motorcycles!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
</span></span>Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-2973862959440912202017-02-07T11:00:00.000-08:002017-03-21T19:12:06.311-07:00Missive #4, Wed, Feb 1st to Tue, Feb 7th<!--[if !mso]>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day
18, Wed Feb 1st</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Best Western, Lusaka to
Protea Hotel, Chipata, 570km</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
was a tough, tough riding day. It started out benignly. Steve (and I could not
have lucked out with a better or more mellow room mate)and I were up at 5 am,
organized to go in short order and had a quick bite at 6 am before gassing up
and departing. We were told not to plan on much in the way of fill up stations
along the way.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
expected some traffic but getting out of the capital was pretty easy as all of
the congestion was incoming. The roads were amazing, better than home. On and
on we went greatly enjoying the scenery and rolling hills, simply spectacular,
lush greenery, lots of easy 'twisties' and village life we passed through- a
nice change from all of the miles and miles of straight roads.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
are sad to be leaving Zambia as we have been incredibly well treated
everywhere we go. I said that the Cape Towners were good but these people take
it to another level again. The hotel staff are impeccably well dressed, well
mannered and communicative, all in perfect english. The people are all so
handsome looking! A sparkle to their eyes, wonderful smiles, great features
with high cheekbones, complexions that Vogue women could only dream of, whiter
than white teeth, and just darn pleasant all around. The young men and women
all carry themselves with such grace and dignity, what more can I say (aside,
the hospitality and generous assistance in Namibia and Botswana were also other
worldly).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKdYK4q0iFaP-zgbo3V-lORjjw1zn14qngMpzsk8e7OLCmawo4etpmKVUDlkHJu5WljTo6wZLeMRWhCyCLMDUs6KNP8numDqsYpLYQw8GVO4HI3H_1u1gpYRn5G89_CTZ0C3jm31R8R7J/s1600/missive4a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghKdYK4q0iFaP-zgbo3V-lORjjw1zn14qngMpzsk8e7OLCmawo4etpmKVUDlkHJu5WljTo6wZLeMRWhCyCLMDUs6KNP8numDqsYpLYQw8GVO4HI3H_1u1gpYRn5G89_CTZ0C3jm31R8R7J/s1600/missive4a.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Out
and about, the locals are pleasant and nice to be around too, harmless and
innocent to this traveller's eyes. I would encourage anyone to come here for a
visit and soak up the hospitality.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Back
to the story; 570 km is a long way on a motorbike for one day even if you are
used to the routine as we are all becoming. Throw in serious downpours and a
few unscheduled detours and it becomes an even greater challenge.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">You
can see the imposing black cumulo nimbus clouds from well in the distance and
you just hope the road will skirt around it; not likely they are just too big!
At the first one I elected to not put on any wet gear because it is hot here
and I reasoned that I would dry out pretty soon. First mistake! The temperature
went from 29.5 to 19.5 in a heartbeat and I actually got darn cold as I got
blasted with water. It was too late to suit up so I pressed on.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjljtl21jLKpcWSu_SexRiEiYOVjVTWqxGD53jm1694ZEC2-ep1f0exhOLtrdoQLp1IMbsQIgIAHTEx2B7-x5mHF9satcsPWuXfbc68_eUwz_rSqmbJnAu1OdaMi91zn8hvRgOp83tSw57Q/s1600/missive4b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjljtl21jLKpcWSu_SexRiEiYOVjVTWqxGD53jm1694ZEC2-ep1f0exhOLtrdoQLp1IMbsQIgIAHTEx2B7-x5mHF9satcsPWuXfbc68_eUwz_rSqmbJnAu1OdaMi91zn8hvRgOp83tSw57Q/s1600/missive4b.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5X99MgN48oeTssSsBwOwnxfsu5TvS2jE-q0O1HFDchv5CrSZVDlikUzBgV05HarNtODko4LpUT_G0X5SIINAmBSWcLWLZ5_IZMUTco9DrWEqJZJrQAj2EX7oo7INWHA0YQV6a5mJDWZe/s1600/missive4c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ5X99MgN48oeTssSsBwOwnxfsu5TvS2jE-q0O1HFDchv5CrSZVDlikUzBgV05HarNtODko4LpUT_G0X5SIINAmBSWcLWLZ5_IZMUTco9DrWEqJZJrQAj2EX7oo7INWHA0YQV6a5mJDWZe/s1600/missive4c.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Before
the next one I got my gear on and good thing because it was far worse. The rain
pelted down something fierce and I could hardly see. By this time I had been on
my own for sometime so my less than 80 km speed would not bother anyone;
another positive is that there was not much traffic.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
third one was even more difficult to navigate. The visibility was horrible and
I just hung on and continued as best I could because there is no other choice.
You just hope you will emerge out the other end without getting struck by a
lightning bolt; the best analogy I can make is that it looked and felt like
Victoria Falls in action.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Getting
closer to Chipata I next encountered two muddy detours due to new highway
construction. The first was short maybe a few klics. The second was a wet, pot
holed monster for 25 klics! Again, Helge is not looking for any excuses, just
suck it up and get the job done. I was standing on the pegs in first and second
throughout, dodging the occasional big tractor trailer and vehicle
traffic and wondering when it would end. Being nervous at the start, I told
myself, this is doable and just keep breathing deeply. 45 minutes later it
turned out well and no slip ups although a few small skids here and there that
makes your heart go a little quicker.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwfQQzIn2QqBmNGiyRkS_okE7wpICAOV3LeezRMo5JH0qVWzNh1ylpT4_AV4B5sv8utlbfd95EUfDa_bQNyQENrx-2nHHWcm7d9pRcRFhuUvqj_-Ox9TGxHi7FMTCDnlq4Wnf0jiQ6tyM/s1600/missive4d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwfQQzIn2QqBmNGiyRkS_okE7wpICAOV3LeezRMo5JH0qVWzNh1ylpT4_AV4B5sv8utlbfd95EUfDa_bQNyQENrx-2nHHWcm7d9pRcRFhuUvqj_-Ox9TGxHi7FMTCDnlq4Wnf0jiQ6tyM/s1600/missive4d.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Steve
and I got our filthy bikes washed at the hotel for 20 Kratchas ($2!) plus tip
and I washed my riding gear in the tub.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHCGdQG1fprij_8qTIvS5dRnVqdEpbarJBGoLgWwSKkyIIlHNzKSl5JF0TFOvZ5RQ5geTPPDLwhCd-3qZcyZG8GaR-lkv7ZYdUByR5pBxKd3m1M8_yszGNRFeHd1GZ6qksBTYPluqeWd-t/s1600/missive4f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHCGdQG1fprij_8qTIvS5dRnVqdEpbarJBGoLgWwSKkyIIlHNzKSl5JF0TFOvZ5RQ5geTPPDLwhCd-3qZcyZG8GaR-lkv7ZYdUByR5pBxKd3m1M8_yszGNRFeHd1GZ6qksBTYPluqeWd-t/s1600/missive4f.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">(one
sideline that I may erase later if this looks to be too long. Tom Botz the
German/Canadian from LA is a great rider and loves riding at high speeds on
his own. We were all worried when he didn't turn up at the end of the day. It
turns out that he hates rain! He had holed up in a shanty town under cover
hoping it would blow over. Along comes Andy in the follow up truck and trailer.
'What are you doing here, let's get going, pal!' Off they go and almost didn't
make it. They came to a bridge under which the river was flash flooding. The
water was up to knee level and very nearly impassable (sure would have been for
me!). With a tractor trailer coming the other way to act as a partial guard
should they get washed away, they inched themsleves the 150 metres across the
bridge that contained no guard rails. Andy is a very experienced South African motorcyclist
and he said he was concerned for both of their safetys as one mess up and they
could have been washed down the river.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">What
a day! We all said it was the best yet. Despite the long hours and adverse
riding conditions, the scenery was spectacular, the road outstanding and the
African villages and activities we encountered were truly worth the price of
admission.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">A
short comment about the highways we have been travelling. They are the roadway
of life for most Africans. They walk everywhere in all sorts of group sizes,
kids large and small, men with hoes and machetes (for cutting roadside grass,
it is all done by hand), women with stuff on their heads; they ride their
single speed rickety bikes loaded with all sorts of produce, firewood and extra
beings up and down the most harrowing hills; quite amazing to watch as you wizz
by.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
part of the world is experiencing record rainfall this year which is
encouraging for a full harvest for the village people (they mostly grow for
their own consumption).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
19, Thur, Feb 2nd</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Protea
Hotel, Chipata to Cross Road Hotel, Lilongwe, Malawi, 144 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
were all tired and knowing it was a short next days ride across the border had
a few more brewskies than normal. Helge's evening presentation is always
entertaining with his Norwegian wit coming in to play.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After
chatting about our 5 day visit coming up in Malawi he launched into the key
part of his chat. The money changers are notoriously crooked and fast talking
so watch out. Fair warning everyone.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Well, what a gol-darn fiasco that turned out to be! It was
like half of us tuned out! The exchange rate is 720 Kwachas to the dollar,
sounds pretty simple, right?</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We get to the border and this big fat bastard with a mit
full of money and a few cronies accompanying him goes to work. I have $50 to
exchange because we need some dough for the border crossing. Quick as a flash
he gives me 3600 and goes to grab my 50. I said hold on a minute friend, I got
to talk to my boss. Helge is nearby and I do a little math and wind up getting
my 36000 (18 in 2000 Kwacha allotments).</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHts3UPiaNvFjWwgvD2buaj1oPqJl-B0LsagXj1JzEDwWdGGCXS1Zg0StveSqOHBCzy2QnlI0xokvL6YlZZld9xjQLQ4WYr9Rmqg5kbuibShrDNreSTUuEWhqJS8Gr9O39U8Gk6dK9QpW/s1600/missive4g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYHts3UPiaNvFjWwgvD2buaj1oPqJl-B0LsagXj1JzEDwWdGGCXS1Zg0StveSqOHBCzy2QnlI0xokvL6YlZZld9xjQLQ4WYr9Rmqg5kbuibShrDNreSTUuEWhqJS8Gr9O39U8Gk6dK9QpW/s1600/missive4g.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The problem turned out to be the next group 10 minutes later
that got totally bamboozled by these guys! Gary, Andy and Aaron got totally
fleeced! Aaron got talked in to exchanging 300 bucks for 21,600 instead of
216,000! Those pricks must be laughing all the way to the bank and frankly I
have been all day too. It serves them right unfortunately and it's pretty
embarassing all round but worth a chuckle at the same time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Having been disappointed with the number of missed photo ops
along the way I had a bit of an ah ha epiphany today. How does one capture the
essence of life along this busy highway<span style="line-height: initial;">?
Stop, try and capture a moment, go, stop, repeat etc. Doesn't work very well.
This morning I stopped to do my routine and thought, what the hell, why not
just shoot enroute? With left hand glove off, camera loop around my wrist, away
I go plinking away, case closed- these bikes can shift many of the gears
without using the clutch handle on the left hand side which makes this exercise
easier and reasonably safe. </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">100 shots later and
feeling pretty chuffed I survey the poor results. The shutter speed is too slow
and many pics are blurry! With an automatic camera I need to slow right down to
allow the camera to do its work while still maintaining forward motion; will
have to see how all of this works and fine tune along the way (need to program
1/400th of a second but no can do on this camera).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The day's highlight was
stopping at a small tobacco farm right on the highway. We were soon surrounded
by kids and adults as this is a stop for Helge every year and they all know
him. He had a stack of pics to pass out from last year.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmqNkGRLCZubRWD1pupwbmFcObu1UJr-4-_n2Ckx7blWJkdMqM2MFt0UDSB3WpTY0elV_31h6U9hoQKi-bN17X0QLSI-oCArHEwL-n6AxfST1N0T9P4MTgCh0I1JcNN5rKoVrozx3v2Ct/s1600/missive4h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmqNkGRLCZubRWD1pupwbmFcObu1UJr-4-_n2Ckx7blWJkdMqM2MFt0UDSB3WpTY0elV_31h6U9hoQKi-bN17X0QLSI-oCArHEwL-n6AxfST1N0T9P4MTgCh0I1JcNN5rKoVrozx3v2Ct/s1600/missive4h.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I got out a bunch of balloons and blew them up for the kids
which was a big hit. I gave a ball to Aaron so he could enjoy the pumping up
and giveaway experience.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So here we are at our very nice hotel in Lilongwe and I am
contemplating tomorrow. One of the village elders came up to me with his son or
maybe his grand son and told me in very broken English about his eyesight
problem. Why he came to me I do not know. He asked me in an imploring manner if
I would bring him some glasses next year when I come. How sweet but also how
sad. I got to thinking, if I don't help this poor guy out, who will? No one.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Fast forward and I have a driver organized for a 6 am
departure to pick the guy up, bring him to an ophthalmologist for an eye
inspection then (hopefully, fingers crossed) to an optometrist for some eye
glasses. My driver Patrick and I will bring the two of them in to town and they
can catch a bus back. I have no idea what it will cost besides the $85 taxi
ride. The others will be doing a bus tour of the city and will have to inform
me later about that. </span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">My odometer started at
7782, is now at 12284 for 4502 km completed, maybe a third of the way through
now being in our 5 th country of 10 to visit.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day 20, Fri, Feb 3rd</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Lilongwe, 0 km</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Up at 5 am for a quick snack and pick up by Patrick. We have
a great chat in the 40 minute drive with the following notes below:</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-17.5 mm Malawi pop, 1.5 in Lilongwe</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the country is extremely poor, little industry</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-revenue farming includes corn, tobacco, tea, rice with some
mill processing for the rice and tobacco</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-cultural practices for for young girls approaching puberty
still very prevalent for approx. 50% with the initiation ceremony involving all
sorts of clipping and chopping; this occurs more in the Muslim tribes
comprising 40% of <span style="line-height: initial;"> the people and less
frequent but still there with the 60% Christians (have seen very few churches
or mosques so far)</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-due to poverty, tons of
teenage prostitution despite laws against such activities that are unenforced;
unprotected sex another sad issue and HIV a big problem</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-it is considered
appropriate to have large families for all sort of reasons so little or no
family planning</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">- government schools are
poorly run, free for primary but a pay as you go system after; kids walk up to
5 km each way to attend 7:30 am to 1:30 pm</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-Indians control much of
the commerce and pay poorly</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-sales tax 16.5% on all
goods, primary source of revenue for corrupt govt (and police) officials</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-donor
nations reducing support due to govt stealing supports my earlier reading
conclusions</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-there
are 7 languages in Malawi and Patrick speaks 3 plus English; most are an off
shoot of Bantu</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-all
of above likely systemic to most African countries</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-therefore,
not a pretty picture except an increasing largely uneducated population
continuing to procreate in large numbers (I noticed much more organized, well
clothed children heading to/from schools in Zambia).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
following turns into a bit of a cluster you know what! We get to the village
around 7 am to find out that our 72 year old man, Mr. Chipali has absconded
with the precious soccer ball and everyone is up in arms; happens that one of
his 49, yes 49 grandchildren was given the ball so he thinks it belongs to his
family; to make matters worse, the ball is about to be sold.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjloA_4mSvNo7H2SkUQYZcqvjYHClrbPhMtauYgO6sBCooZplurYtN-Hha_SIj3ZkxWn_jwQ4K5YZRcqtmCcaLxloCxt47Br52O9CJryxgz69vCETdyKk5b7zS8elCC8hUX3S8BoG36z22w/s1600/missive4i.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjloA_4mSvNo7H2SkUQYZcqvjYHClrbPhMtauYgO6sBCooZplurYtN-Hha_SIj3ZkxWn_jwQ4K5YZRcqtmCcaLxloCxt47Br52O9CJryxgz69vCETdyKk5b7zS8elCC8hUX3S8BoG36z22w/s1600/missive4i.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Patrick
intervenes, the tribal leader is summoned and a trade is negotiated with lots
of heated discussion. Mr. Chipali gives up the ball in return for us taking
him to his eye appointment. One of the neighbours does not think he deserves to
get glasses to improve his sight. Neither do I at this point but we are already
in deep water so no choice but to keep swimming.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">On
the ride in we find out that the man has had 12 children from two wives and in
addition to the 49 there are 13 great grand children! Phillip and I speak quite
severly to the guy, lament his selfishness and extract a promise for him to
look out better for his fellow villagers; not likely we think.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
get to the 8:30 appointment at Kamuzu Central Hospital (public) with nice
Mrs. Nyarenda who speaks okay English; we find pretty rudimentary
equipment but it will do for this guy. He has had a right eye cataract
operation a year ago and at some point will need the left one done too; </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvMsLkFbGXuR2RItQRSub-etrIzeVblW6BXTXwUIMFqWpj7kljdHDs8D_BxLGGAX4GtIu85VJ7RSx9Nb0dM0Z0liZzWmj-6lJKjzUc4ySm9fq7fA1JR-6Vhp7vGVJNcd_Fp7UtM-0JvoH/s1600/missive4k.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvMsLkFbGXuR2RItQRSub-etrIzeVblW6BXTXwUIMFqWpj7kljdHDs8D_BxLGGAX4GtIu85VJ7RSx9Nb0dM0Z0liZzWmj-6lJKjzUc4ySm9fq7fA1JR-6Vhp7vGVJNcd_Fp7UtM-0JvoH/s1600/missive4k.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
see a myraid of people and offices in this shabby 1980's era smelly (read urine
and othe bodily fluids) public hospital building; an important key here is to
keep your advisor in plain sight, follow him everywhere and keep him on your
case not someone elses because it's a busy place; finally around 11 am
get the facts from a Cape Town trained Dr. Eric Ndaule. Mr. Chipali needs his
left eye done but there is currently no free government medications availble
due to lack of funds- for $50 the operation can proceed which I am happy to
pay; glasses will be an added consideration for another $50 a month after the
operation.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Eric
will supervise everything and we exchange emails. I give Mr. Chipali 11450
Kwachas ($16) for approx. 3 round trip mini bus transports starting on Monday.
He overnights with the operation Tuesday and then home on Wednesday. Total cost
including Patrick's fee of $85 is $201 US about what I expected.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Am
back at the hotel at 11:45 for a cold beer. Case closed and glad to see the
back end of Mr. Chipali!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Houston, we have a problem. The world is about to expand
from 7 to 9 billion and 1 of the 2 will be born in Africa increasing their
population from 1.2 to 2.2 billion. How will we, the world cope with this?
Maybe my advancing years makes me envious but there is so much fornication
going on it isn't even funny. Girls start as young teenagers, no birth control,
nothing else to do when it gets dark, families prize lots of kids as more
available to look after the elderly. In my humble opinion I do not think it is
the wests responsibility to admit untold millions of migrating Africans to
Europe and elsewhere just because they are procreating in such ridiculous numbers.
Most of them are male, uneducated and do not speak any but their tribal
language, a problem looking for a place to happen (my understanding is that 70%
of Europe's migration is not Middle Easterners but Africans). There are moral
and ethical issues galore here and I will be looking for input from wherever I
can find it in the ensuing weeks.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Dinner on our own so Steve and hire hire a cab in a raging
rain storm (hotel has a porte cochere) and we head out to a highly regarded
Italian joint called Mama Mia's where we have an outstanding meal for $40 all
in each; full of local whites, sprinkling of blacks on a busy Friday night,
lots of fun.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Day 21, Sat, Feb 4th</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Cross Road Hotel, Lilongwe to Makuzi Beach Lodge,
Chintheche, 343 km</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">My job to do the room sweep; check and re-check; end of
day discover that I have left my converter electrical charger sitting in the
plug outlet, what a dummy but can be replaced somewhere.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Another splendid day on the highways and byways of Africa;
you can't take a bad picture here unless it is a blurry one. One of today's
treats is that it is a relatively short riding day so we can take our time.
Steve and I are quickly the last of the group and stopping all over to view the
amazing sights and sounds of the countryside and it's people.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpN0j1W0IjC-SutSUe79hR20Vuq29cAByRaTG-tWy6cfrGj6n-GVbw_esj2nxeSJJocxrevSYKPCggksTHsdACv9Fyp3ZODV0GbFp1kuRkasyOl1t2FF1Us2cllNuNL5kYNT5sXRHmHaOJ/s1600/missive4m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpN0j1W0IjC-SutSUe79hR20Vuq29cAByRaTG-tWy6cfrGj6n-GVbw_esj2nxeSJJocxrevSYKPCggksTHsdACv9Fyp3ZODV0GbFp1kuRkasyOl1t2FF1Us2cllNuNL5kYNT5sXRHmHaOJ/s1600/missive4m.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKjBOKIAx9t42kk-4N2wLr1U1KfpFQPvWGJM5FWh49i-6OzGmp_91BXm4QJaWEBjEHl0LChS4ZAdURz0QMUM4CiWgZMUhnGE2-gVsT0RnnWMdSqcMUjr3roTwnLTKcvg4LlhvaML3kM52/s1600/missive4n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiKjBOKIAx9t42kk-4N2wLr1U1KfpFQPvWGJM5FWh49i-6OzGmp_91BXm4QJaWEBjEHl0LChS4ZAdURz0QMUM4CiWgZMUhnGE2-gVsT0RnnWMdSqcMUjr3roTwnLTKcvg4LlhvaML3kM52/s1600/missive4n.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">It is Saturday so maybe some excuse but on the inland
section to Lake Malawi I notice large numbers of young black men lounging
around in various group sizes basically doing nothing. Cannot be good- maybe
30% doing something somewhat productive. In addition few schools noticed and
lots of kids running about, kind of reinforces my thoughts above. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">At the hotel I met a 42 year old former school teacher who
is now in the grain business. He verified Patrick's comments and added that the
country is over populated and getting worse with a large percentage living on
less than $1 a day. However, I see a pretty healthy population everywhere I go
and guess that most people while poor are doing okay by their local simple
standards.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">At several places I stop for photo ops and give away
balloons and Canadian lapel pins. Some think they are ear rings and I pin most
of them on personally because they are unsure of what they are. I realize the
dollar apiece they cost would be better served in real money but feel that it
is a bit of a different keepsake that they might have for awhile. Canada is a
foreign word they have never heard of, not surprising.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3YTFbV8azqm5zIjAJGhYm82I3U4llQ3AktGZ7X_7u9r7mja2hNvCpm7jt5znBguaRcTndv5jg7EEiR0q_5nN7Gcm_xYdNQDiWWdnl_bZerU3BXIQLLb7I6ErLbLNndIoVcVKhYD7sReYn/s1600/missive4o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3YTFbV8azqm5zIjAJGhYm82I3U4llQ3AktGZ7X_7u9r7mja2hNvCpm7jt5znBguaRcTndv5jg7EEiR0q_5nN7Gcm_xYdNQDiWWdnl_bZerU3BXIQLLb7I6ErLbLNndIoVcVKhYD7sReYn/s1600/missive4o.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">We pass village after muddy village and Steve stops at
one for our highlight of the day, wondering whether we should take a break. It
looks pretty sketchy, there is loud music blaring and we are quickly surrounded
by locals; as we soon discover they could not be more pleasant. 'Where is the
tribal leader, we have something for him?' Takes awhile for him to show up;
Steve sees a welder at work with no face mask so we get chatting with him; I
have a broken key shaft so ask if he can weld a piece on the end to make it
easier to use. Quick as a jiff there is a makeshift addtition, not very pretty
but functional and I pay him a few kwatchas for his work.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_AAX0ToTfC6G7fP4U5W1RSHU-SP1cGtTbhLwLqserLSKQ4fnYq4_CHUfOnF6eZaLSco9mabkdarOYGpzW8Gz3_SfxgiuTrWrt7IfYqIGdGmzyt_0BE7nBAXEQvCZ0kE5hVYqzFQJ6Fgk_/s1600/missive4p.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_AAX0ToTfC6G7fP4U5W1RSHU-SP1cGtTbhLwLqserLSKQ4fnYq4_CHUfOnF6eZaLSco9mabkdarOYGpzW8Gz3_SfxgiuTrWrt7IfYqIGdGmzyt_0BE7nBAXEQvCZ0kE5hVYqzFQJ6Fgk_/s1600/missive4p.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">The tribal leader shows up and I give a soccer ball and
pump to Steve who pumps it up with the chief's help to large excitement for the
gathered crowd. We have made great friends and they love our modern
contraptions. I am sure we look like a military detachment from Mars with our
imposing machines and gear.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw951sd5pysAARvlcHEvswHfKlsYc-oLG7hSQjQFuY1G8mPt0UsdtTpZGJ0k-OWVBZJI6E9K7ePyUSmhG8-lJA1q2xiegiAjRG7kcfK7JXxTOAxn79Yqweps9f0d4sgtS2EZKa5OSmTBER/s1600/missive4q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw951sd5pysAARvlcHEvswHfKlsYc-oLG7hSQjQFuY1G8mPt0UsdtTpZGJ0k-OWVBZJI6E9K7ePyUSmhG8-lJA1q2xiegiAjRG7kcfK7JXxTOAxn79Yqweps9f0d4sgtS2EZKa5OSmTBER/s1600/missive4q.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">I have learned that the only way to make a fair donation
of a ball is via a leader, teacher or someone in authority otherwise there is
no telling where it will end up. These balls open up a lot of doors, bring non
monetary joy to the recipients; the ballons and pins are pretty cool too
because a lot of people have basically nothing besides the clothes on their
back (how do you measure happiness but I would say they all look to be healthy
and fine).</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">The scenery is lovely (countryside and colorfully dressed
people) and Steve and I wind up going slower and slower hoping the day
will not end. When we get closer to the lake we find more schools and quite a
few Christian churches of various denominations; all are pretty basic.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGke5Wrs5Z5qnpcjurLTqjdWcCFQE_Tqs-hnc9gD1ZOoi1JZvHR1eBMDXc4yyvU2Z6TMTV-DzvHCMpokDBOLrVyyz5yCgnAVPokQJbi-NTkqUzs3q-aknjPtVFpGZG8iRrP7_nE6wPglq/s1600/missive4r.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOGke5Wrs5Z5qnpcjurLTqjdWcCFQE_Tqs-hnc9gD1ZOoi1JZvHR1eBMDXc4yyvU2Z6TMTV-DzvHCMpokDBOLrVyyz5yCgnAVPokQJbi-NTkqUzs3q-aknjPtVFpGZG8iRrP7_nE6wPglq/s1600/missive4r.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Finally we get to the turning point to turn right down
this sandy road, a few klics to the beach. I am well ahead at this point. Along
comes Helge:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Hi, where's Steve? He's behind a ways. Okay, I'll follow
you down to the lodge, Steve's a good rider.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">What
about me? You're a good rider too! Norwegian humour again followed by a huge
laugh and smile!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">For those
interested, Steve is the best off road rider in our group. Tons of experience
in sand up to his axles in the Baja etc. He is also pretty cautious and likes
to go slow and soak up the experience as opposed to some who like to travel at
120 and likely miss lots of neat stuff; suits me fine to go slower too.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The road
is a bit tricky and I fall in some deep stuff at slow speed before Helge shows
up. Quick as a wink I get a villager to help me get the bike upright and I am
off in a flash with no one the wiser! Four other bikes fell on the way in (not
crashed I might add).</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We get to
this other wordly place called Makuzi Beach Lodge (G.I. Joe says it is in the
top three of any resorts he has been to), like out of a movie. Conceived and
built in 1993 by Lara's mother Jane a Zimbabwean (she died in 1997 in a
para gliding accident, aged only 45). She is married to a South African and
they have two teenage boys at school there under the supervision of the Dad.
The grounds and beach access is idyllic and the 3 squares we get all
pre-ordered are delicious. We swim, kyak, take in the views and thank Helge for
being granted a two nigh stay.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XNly1umg8v03c9MS3xI6LWjLZfijpWU7kY2IE9uerLWeeJsSlLRplDGmnx_P0IvS9hjZ1Gc0V6i13oSKK1QY8L9HdW0pxFVOJgoTydITP4Sjv_5-hTH62OroKF8YWxWVPJqMGY5qU3Vy/s1600/nick3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XNly1umg8v03c9MS3xI6LWjLZfijpWU7kY2IE9uerLWeeJsSlLRplDGmnx_P0IvS9hjZ1Gc0V6i13oSKK1QY8L9HdW0pxFVOJgoTydITP4Sjv_5-hTH62OroKF8YWxWVPJqMGY5qU3Vy/s1600/nick3.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Our rooms are little cottages complete with mosquito
netting which we don't need; only some flies around here at the moment.
Speaking of flies, there are clouds and black clouds of them out in the lake;
literally billions living out there; they are born, have sex and die out
there, quite an amazing example of the complexity of nature.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzB4zuLqD3BtTG6RimPQd0i42JhUrDD8hY9ER6I7l95ITPYS4nfkYhG0uRUSzyCyZIfkCIbbyZeUxYwDOAy3Mj7qk4M1S8weF5J-dEkcOHUXsTP5ugUb-lfK_6trf3DbnOCYWewTYX40uH/s1600/missive4t.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzB4zuLqD3BtTG6RimPQd0i42JhUrDD8hY9ER6I7l95ITPYS4nfkYhG0uRUSzyCyZIfkCIbbyZeUxYwDOAy3Mj7qk4M1S8weF5J-dEkcOHUXsTP5ugUb-lfK_6trf3DbnOCYWewTYX40uH/s1600/missive4t.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Lake Malawi is 350 miles long, 40-50 miles wide and 1.4 km
at it deepest point, about half the size of Lake Victoria which I understand is
the largest fresh water lake in the world, bigger than Lake Superior. The lake
is a large source of continental fresh, clean water at some point but is
approx. one metre lower than its average height at the moment.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JLu2yBnwqd8YJHEsy7v_L19kPIWHXUDQqehYReC6HKnWZboyljRSlHcenKNHO489NDFa4rpLXhyLybweE1Bmqv0T4qg92979KI_lss0FlsJNIHRk7k0Zycu_5byFXtpsi9_ySO3EECNO/s1600/missive4u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JLu2yBnwqd8YJHEsy7v_L19kPIWHXUDQqehYReC6HKnWZboyljRSlHcenKNHO489NDFa4rpLXhyLybweE1Bmqv0T4qg92979KI_lss0FlsJNIHRk7k0Zycu_5byFXtpsi9_ySO3EECNO/s1600/missive4u.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Malawi according to Lara is a sugar cane, tea and coffee
growing country with lots of fishing to add to their food staple. Oil has been
discovered under the lake so some consternation about what to do about that.
There are some minerals too but mining them has been tied up in government red
tape for years.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Some of Lara's other tid bits:</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-born and brought up Malawian, loves it here</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-about 300 whites live in surrounding area</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">- in addition to the 16.5 % sales tax she figures she pays
an aggregate of 35% of revenue in tax</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-men are lazy around here, women do all the work</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-27 staff, all well trained</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-the people are generally happy and contented with their
lives and not disgruntled with their lot in life</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-Malawi has never experienced a war and gained
independence from Britain in the 60's</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-she is concerned about poverty, corrupt governments and
seemingly no way out excpet more population growth, all discouraging</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-the education system sucks</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">-Chinese becoming very involved further north; too many in
their prisons so they send them to Africa on work projects and after a year the
deal is they get permanent citizenship</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">I have our trip so far broken down into fifths as follows:
20% the joy of riding and motorcycling in Africa; 20% the scenery we get to
enjoy; 20% people watching enroute (pictures do not adequately capture either);
20% the great guys we are privileged to travel with; 20% our fearless leader
Helge who keeps us laughing, entertained and on track with our daily
responsibilities (mostly!).</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Day 22, Sun, Feb 05</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Makuzi Beach Lodge, 0 km</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Super Bowl Sunday; no TV, no wifi, out in the boonies, who
cares.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Thank goodness, a day where I don't have to be too long
winded! We sleep in, lounge around, go kayaking, swim in the 85+ water to our
hearts content and generally enjoy a delightful day.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Here are a few of Lara's African proverbs:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Travelling, it leaves you speechless then turns you into a
story teller</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">I am African not because I was born in Africa but because
Africa was born in me</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">To get lost is to learn the way</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">If you think you are too small to make a difference, try
sleeping in a closed room with a mosquito</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Words are sweet but they never take the place of food</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">What you can help a child to love can be more important
than what you help him to learn</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Somewhere between heaven and hell lies Africa</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">The Swiss invented the clock, Africa controls the time</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Special, special afternoon, trip highlight for sure. Three
bikes (not me) and Andy's chase vehicle head the short distance to a hearing
impaired school for 93 kids aged 6-19, approx 50/50 boys and girls; they go
from grade 1-8, there are 5 teachers and 8 classes; needless to say it is
pretty basic and our visit was a huge success.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJl9_IVzPfd8cQhetw-N_t-OxXmcUuz5AW5tPiu_gRiB8ZP2QEyLbeEqIGCvkE8pG70yuP2nxUetMneT0mpijmXR1d1XQ57rS0CzNSIjRWHOcDCqdAv6nWnR1cT-p18gxtsbIC4Ts1ltl1/s1600/missive4v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJl9_IVzPfd8cQhetw-N_t-OxXmcUuz5AW5tPiu_gRiB8ZP2QEyLbeEqIGCvkE8pG70yuP2nxUetMneT0mpijmXR1d1XQ57rS0CzNSIjRWHOcDCqdAv6nWnR1cT-p18gxtsbIC4Ts1ltl1/s1600/missive4v.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Helge
has been here twice before and takes pics of all the kids, returning the next
year to distribute the prints; every kid came up to all of us with a sweet
handshake and a nice smile. We gave them all 'T' shirts, some got bike rides
and the big deal was the soccer balls.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCjqIKtoo2iXPX9aJRco3HrNxwMpy5dOcOve05bSFydZsj2oNI90JKdNHRa2b7qjKIcWVQF_PUpNQ7PKdZ0hcghBCDwaw57rhYAV7WZlnR99fNyHz4rzZRFnZ2jTdvSuX3Z0W97QQALmI/s1600/missive4w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCjqIKtoo2iXPX9aJRco3HrNxwMpy5dOcOve05bSFydZsj2oNI90JKdNHRa2b7qjKIcWVQF_PUpNQ7PKdZ0hcghBCDwaw57rhYAV7WZlnR99fNyHz4rzZRFnZ2jTdvSuX3Z0W97QQALmI/s1600/missive4w.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">We gave out 4, 2 each to the big girls and small girls,
same for boys; in a flash they were over to their rudimentary fields with
various competitions ensuing; they were in heaven and so were we watching the
joy on their faces- some of the guys teared up with the emotion of it.
Strangely but not surprisingly all activities were in noticeable silence
apart from a few grunts and noises.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_SEbd3PiNNU-1wxI4FZtgy05lVAh85RJFPbEnipYmU4Kte2n3_gsfbA8h7dsKcc2ddHxsf3HzfeCU5-wyvd3t0dozVOR43r_StcvqN3WZ9M-0LciOullOWCJW6YdxvgEDQQWwiXbi-KOR/s1600/nick4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_SEbd3PiNNU-1wxI4FZtgy05lVAh85RJFPbEnipYmU4Kte2n3_gsfbA8h7dsKcc2ddHxsf3HzfeCU5-wyvd3t0dozVOR43r_StcvqN3WZ9M-0LciOullOWCJW6YdxvgEDQQWwiXbi-KOR/s1600/nick4.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">The school's motto is "educating, exploring and
utilizing talents in learners with hearing impairment". Sadly, government
funding at we think $15 per month per child is sometimes n/a and they all
struggle; we donated about $600 to their cause which should be good </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">fo a few
months.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">On the return, Steve had a spill in the soft sand to great
mirth (going too fast around a corner); at dinner Helge asked that the more
proficient riders keep an eye on the rest on the exit tomorrow morning. I piped
up and asked whether I should be looking after Steve or vice versa to great
laughter!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Day 23, Mon, Feb 06</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Makuzi Beach Lodge, Chintheche to Mikoma Lodge, Karonga,
305 km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Short
day so 8 am departure and I leave first to get a head start on </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"> the 3.5 km of sand. It had not rained for a
few days so the sand had loosened up a lot making for a lot more difficult
roadway.</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">With
heart racing and village kids running behind to see the results I stand up the
whole way in first gear and go for it. Sweating profusely in 27.5 heat I reach
2.2 klics and get a little loosey goosey. The back end slips out in a deep bit
and down we go! Luckily a villager was near by and likety split I am on my way
with no one the wiser.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We all gather at the main
road to celebrate and pump up our tires.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60j6Q2n2h0iTPay9UMA8uEQUHyTPqqjGM-x8wz5O7CEt1ys4V02L38oUK2XBr85FG_6D6c_vnypfIrfuZDh0uvOzvllPV7FC6tOe0H4BOEUJypS3wt1jtJz2ZXzQ1Kn4ou3hEoTixcb7m/s1600/missive4y.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60j6Q2n2h0iTPay9UMA8uEQUHyTPqqjGM-x8wz5O7CEt1ys4V02L38oUK2XBr85FG_6D6c_vnypfIrfuZDh0uvOzvllPV7FC6tOe0H4BOEUJypS3wt1jtJz2ZXzQ1Kn4ou3hEoTixcb7m/s1600/missive4y.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">I was hoping this was
going to be a ho hum day so that I could keep this shorter. Unfortunately
nothing in Africa is ho hum but I will keep it short anyway. The road is like a
lifeline and there is so much of interest happening; too much to explain but
all of great interest to this westerner. In addition, some of the road is under
construction and there are some good twisties up hill and down dale that make
it fun.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Another stop to giveaway a
soccer ball at a school for 300+ kids aged 6 to 14 can be best described in a
few pics; their spontaneous joy and happiness is difficult to capture in words:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOzKVBQDamfincPp-zx8Jptuc3EFKF00QoRMpD-3BN-7_Pe-miZFF-d6o99ixnGDn7P_LDo_N1Ti9BDUitgKP650liuSbp7b9-Ed1Tcyg7KJcj-SCZso1zWNEFnVY6Uj15Y1m-ElbayX3/s1600/missive4z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOzKVBQDamfincPp-zx8Jptuc3EFKF00QoRMpD-3BN-7_Pe-miZFF-d6o99ixnGDn7P_LDo_N1Ti9BDUitgKP650liuSbp7b9-Ed1Tcyg7KJcj-SCZso1zWNEFnVY6Uj15Y1m-ElbayX3/s1600/missive4z.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We pass by lots of maize
(corn) fields, rubber plantations, banana growing and tobacco fields at high
altitude; again, lots of young men with not enough to do and I wonder is this
by choice or what?</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;"> If I was going to suggest
a wonderful driving holiday for two couples it would go something like this:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-plan 2 weeks plus for
excursions, maybe more</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-fly to Windhoek, Namibia
and rent a car</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-take in Sossusvlei by
flying down and back or driving </span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-follow our path, stay in
the same hotels and drive east to Nairobi</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-Stop at Chobe National
Park and the Okavango Delta, also Victoria Falls</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-continue driving east
taking in Zambia and Malawi and the wonderful drive that it is</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-if you think that lots
and lots of pedestrians, bicycles, farm animals, baboons and the like
constitute traffic so be it; the roads are excellent, straight (all the better
for looking around) and very little vehicular traffic</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-the people are friendly
as can be so drive slowly and stop often</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">- bring a map of the
world, lapel pins and soccer balls with a hand pump</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-the lodgings and food are
superior and I think it would be an inexpensive holiday in a most interesting
part of the world and extremely safe</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-most people speak good or
at least rudimentary English and all signage is in English; it is impossible to
get lost</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-when you get to Nairobi,
off load your vehicle to the next couple who will re-trace your trip and drop
off the car</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-the only fun thing you
won't get that we get driving motorcycles is a sore arm from waving to all the
friendly faces; seriously, while the scenery is spectacular, the people
watching is even better</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-this is a good time to go
because nothing happening at home and it is fairly quiet here</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-you will then be able to
legitimately say that you drove right across Africa!</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Looks like the Patriots beat
the Falcons 34-28, too bad.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 24, Tue, Feb 7th</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Mikoma Lodge, Karonga,
Malawi to Hill View Hotel, Mbeya, Tanzania, 174 km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Another border day so a
shorter ride while we navigate the 3.5 hour hassles of security and paperwork.
On exit to Mbeya 100 klics away we notice lots and lots of trucks, mini buses
and motorbikes (125cc, good, not too big) so more prosperity happening although
more traffic and stressful driving; geography vey hilly, pretty to look at and
lots of agriculture especially banana growing. Mbeya pretty much just a stop
over and a bit of a dump so time to push the 'send' button!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Best, NG</span></span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span><br />Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-71362703979796335702017-01-31T11:00:00.000-08:002017-03-21T19:08:34.513-07:00Missive #3, Tue Jan 24th to Tue, Jan 31st<!--[if !mso]>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="9" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="heading 9"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="toc 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="35" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Quite
a few supportive replies coming back from the last missive so thanks for that
as it will encourage me to keep working hard on the story; sorry not to reply
but time is short due to the demands of each day, length of the day's ride,
need to catch your breath on arrival and interact with the group over a beer.
It becomes a bit of a routine but in this escapade routine is prefaced by
alertness at all times.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">The routine looks something
like this:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<a href="x-apple-data-detectors://7" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">6:00 am</span></a> alarm set,
toiletries etc., pack ( 8 organized Eagle Creek zip bags for easy access to all
my stuff) , get gear organized, remove bike cover, set Garmin tracking system
for day</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="x-apple-data-detectors://8" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">7:00 am</span></a> breakfast,
short meeting about day's ride</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="x-apple-data-detectors://9" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">7:30 am</span></a> departure</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="x-apple-data-detectors://10" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">12:00</span></a> or whenever,
lunch at own expense</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="x-apple-data-detectors://11" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">4:00 pm</span></a> or before
approx. arrive destination, organize stuff for check in, cover bike, get cold
beer asap, shower, clean dirty clothing in sink or shower</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="x-apple-data-detectors://12" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">7:00 pm</span></a> drinks,
dinner, celebrate.</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Next day: repeat- methodical
and deliberate wins the day; compared to my driving habits at home, there is
no comparison!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Y</span><span style="line-height: initial;">esterday I was 30 klics from our destination and I
could just feel heavy eyes over taking. I was in the lead so had a cushion and
pulled off at one of the many dirt picnic spots and relaxed under a tree.
Fifteen minutes of power nap leaning back on my bike, I was ready to go!</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Today
I started the first of 70 maladrone </span><span style="line-height: initial;">malaria
pills.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">There
is some really net stuff to look at on Helge's Globeriders website which has
just been updated to include this year's tour. If you click on "bike's and
bio's" you can see pics of each rider and a short write up by each
including my rather weak effort.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
The
"map", seen below, is the real-time Tracking map of the Expedition.
The location updates are a live feed from our Garmin inReach SE Satellite GPS
Messenger. You can change the map from Road to Aerial Imagery to Topo views and
of course you can pan and zoom in/out for more or less detail. You can collapse
the Side-bar and Top-header using the gray-arrow buttons to see more map.
Anytime you want to return the map to it original position you can simply
refresh your browser page.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Along
with all of this detail, by clicking on any tracking point you can see
elevation and motorcycle speed at that point (Helge's I might add, he travels
pretty quick!)</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="http://globeriders.com/live!journal_pages/gcc17_live!journal/gcc17_main.shtml" style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="color: black;">http://globeriders.com/live!journal_pages/gcc17_live!journal/gcc17_main.shtml</span></a></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sorry,
this is being sent to some recipients twice because there were 73 'kick backs'
on the last mail out that did not go through. Part of the problem in this part
of the world is that wifi is hopeless so it is catch as catch can. It is a
pretty neat website.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
crossed the Tropic of Capricorn today.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
We
arrived to our lovely lodgings called the Strand Hotel right on the Atlantic
Ocean via a place called Walvis Bay in the later afternoon. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Day
10, Tue, Jan 24th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Strand
Hotel, Swakopmund to Bush Pillow Guest House, Otjiwarango, 379 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
This
was our easiest day by far and much deserved after all of the excitement of the
previous days; nothing consequential to report.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
worth a paragraph. I have been away 2 weeks and am completely disconnected with
the outside world. For a news junky consumer and sports follower I assumed
there might be some withdrawal symptoms; no such luck! I have not missed any
of it, the world still turns and having a breather is just right. Gary had to
tell me last night that Atlanta and New England are in the Super Bowl. I have
no knowledge of the Trump inauguration whatsoever or the shenanigans going on
but I did hear that Fed beat Rafa in the Australian Open, cool!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
One
of the reasons of course is that we are all very busy, very focused on our
motor cycling responsibilities, full metal jacket stuff. Even writing this
journal is sometimes a squeeze.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Day
11, Wed, Jan 25th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Bush
Pillow Guest House, Otjiwarango to Omashare River Lodge, Rundu, 476 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Amazing
feel good day, felt privileged; it was a straight, well paved highway, and we
left around 7:45 am Aaron and I behind Joe who we soon passed as he was felling
a bit under the weather. We roared down the highway making good time in 18.5
degree temperatures and no wind. This is a great way to make up time as you are
fresh as a daisy. When we got to Grootfontein (note many Africaner names) Aaron
and I fueled up at separate stations and I took off alone. It was fun being on
my own.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Somewhere
down the road in the middle of nowhere in an increasingly green and leafy area
I came across a gaggle of humans traipsing down the side of the road so I
stopped to say hi and take a pic; 2 adult mums carrying 2 babies plus 4 kids
walking along, big, happy smiles. Given where they were, where they had come
from (who knows?) I wondered where they might be headed so I noted the odometer
reading and kept going.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWHjZ1jZN0CR_rVL63LlmhSQYs05aSuQhRKB2ZoUeHyAg2Mcp1LY9xCQOy_z1BUbnJ4fbVvFoHy-f3s7xb35H6vqZQ1Euxxn4glhKrabIL2brLYWH-S6tlYesQXiTkvYyT3TbpZn2rEzE/s1600/missive3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWHjZ1jZN0CR_rVL63LlmhSQYs05aSuQhRKB2ZoUeHyAg2Mcp1LY9xCQOy_z1BUbnJ4fbVvFoHy-f3s7xb35H6vqZQ1Euxxn4glhKrabIL2brLYWH-S6tlYesQXiTkvYyT3TbpZn2rEzE/s1600/missive3.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">35
km later (ie a marathon) I come to this village and could only guess that that
was their destination. I stop to look around and take some pics of the
thatched basic housing with no solar, no power, no TV aerials, no dogs, no cats
(another mouth to feed?) etc. pretty basic. Five kids saunter up not looking
for anything but just to gawk and say hi; time for a soccer ball handout (I had
purchased a box of 25 balls in Cape Town for giveaways).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
hand pumped up the ball, gave them each a Canadian lapel pin, took a few pics
and was on my way feeling pretty pumped myself.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fH2PGZIpun-8uSLarp0vl662C_bOV4hIMr4YryGFUJt2xSuLcG7qT3yKs4P1fRTMqLvOT76CRMlzNrwzqu6B6HZ6Hsl2ztt5XXYFSzReBrJycDYMW0gbwkkF4hNT3EyhUb3aSYQtvlRP/s1600/missive3b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3fH2PGZIpun-8uSLarp0vl662C_bOV4hIMr4YryGFUJt2xSuLcG7qT3yKs4P1fRTMqLvOT76CRMlzNrwzqu6B6HZ6Hsl2ztt5XXYFSzReBrJycDYMW0gbwkkF4hNT3EyhUb3aSYQtvlRP/s1600/missive3b.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">About
a half hour later I come to another village full of kids in blue shirts heading
home from school, like a lot of kids. I pull right off the road this time and
wait for them to saunter up- ages about 5-10 years, maybe another soccer ball
opportunity?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">They
are all gathering around and I bring out the deflated ball; a cacophony of
'me, me, me, me reverberates everywhere, deafening, at least they know one word
of English. Realizing the the ball is useless with no air, when I pull out the
pump there is dead silence. I take my sweet time on the pumping process in
order to build suspense and survey the sweet little kids looking at me, the
bike and mostly the ball; I get an older girl nearby to take a pic.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFt9ZtnBboEdhgjo1j2aD4X4zQMo9gngkj5e7JUsR7VP7Qj6G8zZeZZTo6RDzzHU5K4UaWQpc3ZCJw0ImioFJ3BoJx8bYfzLJZ3GWANadqDbKis5P4jp33OOkLAXQ4vntyL-Yh0J7pdXU/s1600/missive3c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxFt9ZtnBboEdhgjo1j2aD4X4zQMo9gngkj5e7JUsR7VP7Qj6G8zZeZZTo6RDzzHU5K4UaWQpc3ZCJw0ImioFJ3BoJx8bYfzLJZ3GWANadqDbKis5P4jp33OOkLAXQ4vntyL-Yh0J7pdXU/s1600/missive3c.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span id="goog_1569244361"></span><span id="goog_1569244362"></span><br />Finally the
ball gets thrown and there is a huge scrum down. I was pleased that one of the
smaller boys emerged from the pile to run on down the road. Hard to describe
the feeling of this very small giving process.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
rest of the day was ho hum but energizing before and after.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Our
lodgings have been absolutely splendid as is the food albeit too much red meat
of every make model and description; would like to try some chicken or fish
sometime. My ass is causing a few problems, not for riding either so will have
to get some more ruffage in me.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Based
on today's ride, scenery and local villages we passed (got a sore arm returning
all the waves) I am feeling more and more like we are in real Africa. Up to now
it has been first world (S. Africa), desert and touristy (Namibia).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Day
12, Thur, Jan 26th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Omashare
River Lodge, Rundu to Namushasha Country Lodge, Kongola, 427 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Another
brilliant day on the road, so much happening for these western eyes. The road
is straight but the people watching viewpoints are amazing. The following are a
few thoughts and observations:</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-lots
of birds (mostly a type of pidgeon) on the road and you do not want to hit one;
this means you have to watch your speed and practise your ducking maneuver;
they are pretty evasive but one never knows; </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">walks
everywhere; no bikes, no motorbikes, not even any public transit (to speak of)
around;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
see people, groups in the middle of nowhere ambling along, no idea where they
come from or where they go to; </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-lots
of women carrying stuff on their heads;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-I
need to get way better at stopping and getting a quick photo of what I am
seeing; -the ground looks fertile for organized farming; the farming here is
rudimentary subsistence farming for personal consumption; all hand tools, no
mechanization in sight;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-no
one uses headlights underway, apparently uses too much power(!);</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-everyone
seems happy and contented, do not think there are many or any smart phones
around here;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-we
are all travelling mostly on our own. This is way better because it allows for
frequent stoppages as and when you choose;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-</span><span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">we
have seen hundreds maybe thousands of termite nests, incredibly complex living
systems under the ground with huge funnels of hard as concrete chimneys built
on top sometimes overwhelming trees;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-many
elephant, hyena and other animal highway signs; saw baboons (a pack of about
12-15 with the boss over 100 lbs- these guys are smart and a pest, some know
how to break in to houses and cars; they can rip apart the fiercest dog with
their strong jaws and canine teeth- the big ones as big as a lion's); </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-saw
3 kudus prancing across the road, no elephants;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-lots
of goats and cattle wandering across roads;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-we
cover our bikes every night (Helge's rule) and the bike security is excellent.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
We
travelled through several interesting parks of different usage and name but the
main one was the Bwabwata National Park which forms part of what is called the
Caprevi Strip or the Zambezi Region. This strip was horse traded by the
Germans and the British in the 1800's. The Brits wanted Zanzibar for strategic
reasons. The Germans had German West Africa (Namibia) and wanted this 200 km
strip because of its river systems. All these years later we are still in the
finger of</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Namibia.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUuvuF7pKZo518haErkPb-FEfFk7LskxClWZRkJWWLjKyWD-TLiQ2Pg8pH9znanN2i0YFmP-G-ixE-F6JkxqEOIjuubmcTdoBZefVIi3Xw9nVG_l7p1bEWccC-S6T57uSxAXiyJiyConE/s1600/missive3d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXUuvuF7pKZo518haErkPb-FEfFk7LskxClWZRkJWWLjKyWD-TLiQ2Pg8pH9znanN2i0YFmP-G-ixE-F6JkxqEOIjuubmcTdoBZefVIi3Xw9nVG_l7p1bEWccC-S6T57uSxAXiyJiyConE/s1600/missive3d.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
corridor comprises the largest concentration of migrating elephants in
the world, approx. 60-100,000 of them wander from Angola (where they are
poached) south into Botswana and the Chobe National Park where we are going
tomorrow.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
are about to go on a private boat tour along one of the main rivers, the Kwando
River. The Bwabwata National Park is full of migrating animals, all of the
species except Rhino; the guide figures 200 Lions, 60 Leopards, thousands of
Elephants and Cape Buffalo's (the big 5) and 250 Cheetahs and lots of crocs; we
stopped and studied many hippo families and got up close and personal to a
couple of big bulls (maybe 2000 kg) really cool. Rhinos life to 45-50 years.
Their noises speaking to each other is awesome.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This
is Namibia's rainy season mid October to mid April; Apr-Oct is their very busy
tourist season so we have the place pretty much to ourselves. With abundant
water holes all over at the moment, animals are harder to spot because they are
less likely to come down to the water to drink.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Day
13, Fri, Jan 27th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Namushasha
Country Lodge, Kongola to Chobi Safari Lodge, Kasane, Botswana, 261 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Today
we crossed from Namibia into Botswana so need time to process the border hence
a lower mileage day. We were rained on quite heavily so I got to put on my BMW
rain suit which works great.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After
some effort we accessed the famous Chobi National Park near the Zambezi River
with continuing promises of elephant sightings from Helge. Riding your
motorcycle in this park, you can see any and all of the African animal species
on any given day. All were disappointed except Harrison, Debbie and I bringing
up the rear. It was a real thrill to see approx. 15 very large and some tiny
elephants cross the road right in front of us; got the camera out for a quick
few shots. While opposite a big bull maybe 100 feet away I was busy trying to
put my camera away and get on my left glove to keep going on this hot day.
Suddenly, he turns his big tusks towards me and bellows something awful.
Needless to say, I downed tools and got the hell out of there because an angry
animal like this can cover a lot of ground in a hurry if he wants to.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtSPg8F-KNxd7M-7GU1VCSkOYeDNjF48iOHF_6s19iCpWri9Bxb6TzDpB5-q3hGMjiGcm80RElhmn7STVi8r7kRrMIQFbDy0mWPVrqm8lRxwP7bUI7TfA0nvwryw0Yj-yvtIs_iqj5deI/s1600/missive3e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQtSPg8F-KNxd7M-7GU1VCSkOYeDNjF48iOHF_6s19iCpWri9Bxb6TzDpB5-q3hGMjiGcm80RElhmn7STVi8r7kRrMIQFbDy0mWPVrqm8lRxwP7bUI7TfA0nvwryw0Yj-yvtIs_iqj5deI/s1600/missive3e.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
get to our stunning lodgings and check in. Pearl, our housekeeper welcomes us
to our second floor room over looking the river. Her words of caution
were succinct. Make sure you keep your screen doors shut otherwise the baboons
will come in and make themselves at home!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Day
14, Sat, Jan 28th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Chobe
Safari Lodge, Kasane, Botswana, 0 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
It
rained so hard in the night that I was woken up even with ear plugs; went
outside on to our upstairs veranda and stuck my arm out, amazing the amount of
water reigning down.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Up
at 5:30 am for a 5:45 departure into the game Reserve, pitch black, drizzling a
bit; we drive and drive, through the teak forest (the sand is 200 to 500 feet
deep), lush green foliage, quiet, peaceful except for us; down to the river,
lots of bird life, hippos, myriad wildlife; at this time of year animal
sightings much more difficult; we continue inland on the 3 hour trek, stopping
for coffee and a snack along the way.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sometimes
words, even superlative words cannot describe what you see and experience; we
were getting a bit antsy with no elephant sightings then, out of nowhere, we
are in the middle of a large herd, half on one side of the track half on the
other; Webby stops the big Toyota Landcruiser for a photo op.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
are transfixed by the majesty of these animals in their natural habitat. They
are a bit jittery with us so close by. Then, out of nowhere, the biggest bull
stranded by himself from the herd gets angry, bellows, shakes his majestic head
violently and almost knocks down a tree in a show of strength and intimidation.
Debbie yells for us to get the hell out of here! We start the vehicle and inch
away. The big bull chases us at speed. Later, Christian who has been here 3
times says it was by far the best visitation he has had in this environment. We
are all overwhelmed by the experience.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzg2Y6IL5GkRux4nJK3EmnbOlv8fa_0O2UwEpHOlC6VV8Bm1OSyzAWAexfD9PYMr1znWldOalq4Afev94ZTGkIpxJ6AGlub7Yuz5WVgvIBfsQluafqSI4Xv6Dq47fP4yfdqoLGdkr1Pc4v/s1600/missive3f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzg2Y6IL5GkRux4nJK3EmnbOlv8fa_0O2UwEpHOlC6VV8Bm1OSyzAWAexfD9PYMr1znWldOalq4Afev94ZTGkIpxJ6AGlub7Yuz5WVgvIBfsQluafqSI4Xv6Dq47fP4yfdqoLGdkr1Pc4v/s1600/missive3f.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Both
Steve and I commented afterwards, how in the heck did we forget to video what
we were seeing?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Meanwhile,
Harry and Andy have slept in. Harry awakens, opens the veranda doors on the
second floor for some fresh air and returns to bed. A short while later they
are disturbed by 3 baboon visitors looking for their morning coffee (with
sugar, they like sugar); only in Africa!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In
the later afternoon we all go on a river cruise to visit African nature from
the water; we saw literally hundreds of very colorful bird species, lots of
crocs up close and personal, lizards, hippos, giraffes from a distance and an
elephant that could have qualified for the Ed Sullivan show with his
histrionics! Our guide kept us enthralled with his details on all that we saw.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Border
crossing tomorrow so lots of paperwork and patience required.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Day
15, Sun, Jan 29th</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Chobe
Safari Lodge, Kasane, Botswana to Protea Hotel, Livingston, Zambia, 83 km</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Short uneventful trip through
the border, much faster than we expected; on the way in to Livingston (population
200k) the GPS setting for the hotel was not right and I took an
incorrect left hand turn up a bumpy water strewn road. About a mile up on a bit
of an adventure I find the Royal Livingston Golf Club established in 1908; I
drop in all sweaty with riding gear and ask the pro if he would like to play in
a couple of hours and head to the hotel to have lunch, shower and freshen up.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">I taxi back
and play 9 delightful holes with Aaron and his entourage of helpers, minders
and caddies. He is 62 and was on was on the Zambian national team for
years finishing as the captain for the last three years. The course is way past
its prime, full of weeds but lots of fun for a cost including tip of $35 and
all were delighted.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzXKMVpMnGzVzY9xXr5_MWV633uUWzS3DD-OC3yZFdzn6J0_3z0dsfcovL4H6_s9fjmOp8ejw6qxLkzI3_ls9c0v1MTBzteq5hDgueDIKxTyQNSwf2ektWaufySeQGSAZ17114wxmY_5BO/s1600/missive3g.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzXKMVpMnGzVzY9xXr5_MWV633uUWzS3DD-OC3yZFdzn6J0_3z0dsfcovL4H6_s9fjmOp8ejw6qxLkzI3_ls9c0v1MTBzteq5hDgueDIKxTyQNSwf2ektWaufySeQGSAZ17114wxmY_5BO/s1600/missive3g.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Day 16, <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://24" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);">Mon, Jan 30th</a></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Protea
Hotel, Livingston, Zambia, 0 km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Day to take
in the sights so Tom (Beckord) and I head over to Victoria Falls for a visit on
the Zimbabwe side and then on the Zambia side. The Falls are twice as high and
50% wider than Niagara Falls and truly spectacular; the noise is deafening.
What makes it so special is the 15 viewpoints to see the Falls from and the
lovely walks between the locations. We spent over 3 hours there and got pretty
wet because the Zambezi River is full during this rainy season and there is
quite a bit of spray.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTTQdz14jRz8qRNAGCGOmjexme_-h0jh0z908VpBBcFQyV5SUIz851chvY1JWFTZM4bKuDBgt7j6SIp-Pfuc3hsYLuSgo74PtOp6deF4MlU1WqJEg_yusnoZTd9csfh35jzVWVq9sfw4fG/s1600/missive3h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTTQdz14jRz8qRNAGCGOmjexme_-h0jh0z908VpBBcFQyV5SUIz851chvY1JWFTZM4bKuDBgt7j6SIp-Pfuc3hsYLuSgo74PtOp6deF4MlU1WqJEg_yusnoZTd9csfh35jzVWVq9sfw4fG/s1600/missive3h.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGM-91XpP2fFsno_3VrHaZUa4Jg4RgkXPfCN7ZeTXO_okQagpN3TOGmR5pA8Tf3ChPx06gz9mb5hBTKlNRhr6N3BiFhLg7HO2mWxRYW5tDKG5EmHKo_cyQk6-5klUioE8NHJO4zgMOdGQ/s1600/missive3i.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyGM-91XpP2fFsno_3VrHaZUa4Jg4RgkXPfCN7ZeTXO_okQagpN3TOGmR5pA8Tf3ChPx06gz9mb5hBTKlNRhr6N3BiFhLg7HO2mWxRYW5tDKG5EmHKo_cyQk6-5klUioE8NHJO4zgMOdGQ/s1600/missive3i.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Following
the long walk we still had energy to taxi to the Livingston Museum which was
well worth it. The key for me was nearly all of David Livingston's original
letters are there to be easily read and poured over. He lived from 1813-73 and
Stanley was commissioned by the British government to go and find him in about
1853. He was a very famous explorer by then and had been missing and presumed
dead for over 2 years.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">Day 17, <a href="x-apple-data-detectors://44" style="-webkit-text-decoration-color: rgba(38, 38, 38, 0.258824);">Tue, Jan 31st</a></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Protea Hotel, Livingston,
Zambia to Best Western, Lusaka, Zambia, 478 km</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Easy peasy day to the capital
of Zambia, Lusaka. The roads started off excellent and then deteriorated to
lots of pot holes so maybe they ran out of money. Getting closer to the capital
I noticed for the first time some commercial farming and even a few pieces of
mechanized equipment! I also got stopped by the traffic police for going 79
klics but there was no speed posted, cost me 30 bucks.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZHN8NMKFj-d8a1XAdS2AOTYB6pLeq-M-Lkq6fwBDfrsf6eBrbBvnx2JdT5mL4kgqn42IB08UXvMCTwHUJbQsij8JbM7wp46o2wW1Wa_gKaYB4ERDONDQgXzIXVkEgPn4dfksip3LfyXR/s1600/missive3j.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBZHN8NMKFj-d8a1XAdS2AOTYB6pLeq-M-Lkq6fwBDfrsf6eBrbBvnx2JdT5mL4kgqn42IB08UXvMCTwHUJbQsij8JbM7wp46o2wW1Wa_gKaYB4ERDONDQgXzIXVkEgPn4dfksip3LfyXR/s1600/missive3j.jpg" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Stopped at a school out on its
break and the kids pumped up a ball. The principal was very nice and very
appreciative. The boys took off leaving the girls behind. I thought there is
an extra ball in my pannier so why not donate that too? We marked each ball
'boys' and 'girls' so they won't get it mixed up.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgZ_ITn6fIaQsTi9DKTTbvLoqjdDCsv9PwsbUEeEq8enS3ApfcF72A3vNFlxcdYT8cTjrf8ggmVX3hikNyfn9iucUXUSoi9a0ZXcSXoGmZ1L87eQG1FDAzssPtHE6nWPXIuxR6Ia7NLB_/s1600/missive3l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwgZ_ITn6fIaQsTi9DKTTbvLoqjdDCsv9PwsbUEeEq8enS3ApfcF72A3vNFlxcdYT8cTjrf8ggmVX3hikNyfn9iucUXUSoi9a0ZXcSXoGmZ1L87eQG1FDAzssPtHE6nWPXIuxR6Ia7NLB_/s1600/missive3l.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">We drove through a lot of one
and two horse dirty little villages but saw lots of great countryside in
between so it was a good day all around.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkgSdOemoOtxwYj7sAhaV0f2j2-8fTNzDprhiyRKvnMKsYGwGkelcAbycG8Zw6ojptynVjre7XBW9Dz0L6jploP_YYdPJZ4bwMpuenHNCSgDAXSS5_O8VN9BYQQLnNJvUDlLT4j7kguaN/s1600/missive3m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkgSdOemoOtxwYj7sAhaV0f2j2-8fTNzDprhiyRKvnMKsYGwGkelcAbycG8Zw6ojptynVjre7XBW9Dz0L6jploP_YYdPJZ4bwMpuenHNCSgDAXSS5_O8VN9BYQQLnNJvUDlLT4j7kguaN/s1600/missive3m.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); line-height: initial;">In closing,
one of the things I want to share is a few details on my 2015 motorbike, the
BMW R1200 GSA. This is a marvelous piece of machinery and a big improvement on
the 2009 model I travelled the Silk Road with in 2011. German engineers tore it
apart in 2012 and re-built it from the ground up as follows</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">-cruise control, real handy<br />
-front brake alone engages rear brake as well for a hard stop; same with rear
brake engaging the front; this thing stops on a dime;<br />
-manually adjustment of front windshield<br />
-125 hp up from 111 hp- 0-60 in 2.8 seconds faster than a top sports car<br />
-2" lowering of center of gravity<br />
-many height adjustments; many road condition settings<br />
-way better horn and turn signal improvements<br />
-very well designed rear view mirrors, attractive and functional<br />
-it is shaft driven like the older model<br />
-one place where they really screwed up is the cheap, plasticy start/stop
button, mine is about to go tapioca due to being full of dust and sand; can't
understand how they missed such a simple component step in the process as this.</span></span></div>
Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-38982690895125464162017-01-23T11:00:00.000-08:002017-03-21T18:54:35.966-07:00Missive #2, Mon, Jan 16th to Mon, Jan 23rd - Day 2 -9<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">There is a glitch in out
travel plans! We were due to pick up our bikes from the container port today
(Monday) to prepare for departure tomorrow. Unfortunately, two things coincided
for a double negative. Our bikes were container shipped from Seattle October
21st to provide for a big built in buffer. For some reason time was lost with
an unexpected stoppage in Singapore. Then, on a several week late arrival and
with paperwork needing to be checked and re-checked it was discovered that
there was a mixup between World Cargo and the shipping agent in Seattle and the
customs officials here- ONE lousy piece of paper missing! Consequently, with
this happening over a weekend and the Martin Luther King Day holiday this
Monday we have a double whammy on our hands.</span><br />
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Mon/Tue, Jan 16th/17th; instead of being well
on our way, we are holed up in Cape Town, not exactly a bad place to be. </span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">T</span><span style="line-height: initial;">he highlight of Monday apart
from numerous meetings about all stuff motorcycle related, was our 'welcome
dinner'. Helge always finds a nice private dining room nearby our hotel for a
get acquainted celebration. This was no exception. Our lovely hotel near the
harbour is very well located and the restaurant right on the water mirrored
that as well. The food and drink turned out to be a bonus on top of the top.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">After suitable beer and wine to loosen people
up Helge asked for a person by person intro along with trip expectations and
the like. What an introduction! We were all aghast at the quality of the
commentary. Each time I was overwhelmed with one person's comment, along came
another, equally terrific. I felt humbled to be in such honest and forthright
company.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">We have a broad collection of ages and backgrounds which I will not
bore you with suffice to say we have two in their 40's, two in their 50's, one
in their 60's (me) and three in their 70's plus Helge and Debbie Christian as
the sole moderating female! It is a very experienced, proficient team and I
think speaking early, that it will jell well together- not a big ego in the
group.</span></span><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Tuesday was a bit gloomy and disappointing
due to the bike hold up. Harry got us going with a mini bus tour to Signal Hill
for sight seeing and a photo op followed by a driving tour to the other side
of town for lunch; a wonderful day all around and another opportunity to enjoy
each other's company, thanks Harry and Andy!</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="text-align: initial;">Here's hoping that we will be able to make some hay
tomorrow.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 04, </span><span style="line-height: initial;">Wed, Jan 18th</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Cape Town to Springbok, 660 km</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Fi</span><span style="line-height: initial; text-align: initial;">nally
we get the ok on the paperwork and in a state of high excitement mini bus out
to the docklands to find our container. In remarkably short order it is craned
into place and unloaded. Then began the work for everyone to get their bikes
organized and this took a good couple of hours.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="text-align: initial;">We left at about noon for the 660 km route to
Springbok. Unfortunately we had to by pass our first destination on the coast
in Lamberts Bay and take the direct route missing the more scenic coast road.
Everyone was disappointed to miss the planned barbecue on the beach but the
delay in getting the bikes meant that there was no other choice.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">I</span><span style="line-height: initial;">t was a long journey for the
first day and we did not arrive until after 6 pm. In places it was very hot,
mid 30's on average and I saw 42.5 on my gauge a few times. When it went down
to 30 I felt like the air con was on! It actually was not all that bad as long
as you keep moving and stand up on your pegs to let the air get inside your
gear once in awhile; I also have a camelpak which is a 1.5 litre knapsack that
I can suck on to keep hydrated.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">The terrain was mixed, dry coastal flatlands
with limited cattle and sheep grazing at the outset becoming rolling hills with
a few green spots and higher temperatures at elevation. We saw some fruit
orchards and vegetation before the last bit of very rocky even brilliant and
hilly landscapes. </span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">This place can be very windy. We were
buffeted by severe cross winds maybe gusts to 30-40 knots for the first third
making driving a bit of a challenge. Thereafter it subsided.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">After a couple of quick gas stops we arrived
in Springbok at about 6 pm to be welcomed by a bottle of S. Africa's finest in
our rooms. The Kleinplasie Guesthouse is so quaint and pleasant that I
jokingly said to Helge we should be staying another night. Shower and dinner to
follow.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Day 5, Th</span><span style="line-height: initial;">ur, Jan 19th</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Springbok to Canyon Village Lodge, 318 km</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">Tough day with a relatively short ride of 318 klics; we left the
Kleinplasie Guesthouse in Springbok in good time to get a head start on the
heat and cross the Namibian border. The crossing was a breeze and by far the
easiest we will see. We all stopped at the Wimpys to fuel up, grab a drink and
cool off in the air con before hitting the desert and it is their summer here;
the long straight tarred road was easy until the left turn at the halfway point
to our next destination. This is where we hit gravel and sand. The first third
was fine at 80 klics/ hour, the second bit got worse and by the time we all
arrived 100 km later everyone was bushed, humbled and basically exhausted. It
is like getting your sea legs, it takes a day or two but even so it was pretty
challenging stuff.</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">The destination in the middle of nowhere is worth
the price of admission. Canyon Village Lodge near the Fish River Canyon is like
an oasis in a desert, no, it is exactly an oasis in the desert. It is a
collection of lovely little stone cabins surrounding the main lodge in a valley
of prehistoric rock out croppings, many of them huge and majestic. </span></span></div>
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all hung around the pool, drank tons of liquids to rehydrate and had a
delicious dinner outside under a cool evening environment. After Helge's daily
meeting we all contemplated tomorrow before turning in early.</span></div>
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06, Fri Jan 20th</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Canyon
Lodge/ Fish River Canyon only, 117 km</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">This was an amazing, relatively easy 75 km journey
to the world famous Fish River Canyon. Namibia is mostly desert, a vast
underwater sea from eons ago and at some places you could almost be on the
moon. Smack dab in the middle of nowhere is the second biggest ancient canyon
in the world next to the Grand Canyon in Colorado; a small group of us arrived
early and got some terrific shots of the early morning shadows. We had the
place almost to ourselves; what a great way to start the day!</span></span></div>
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Along
the way I finally got my go pro going; I quickly learned that the correct
procedure is that you stop, turn the thing on, go, take footage, stop, turn the
thing off, go. You DO NOT try do do this on the move. Multitasking is not one
of my finer suits especially on a moving motorcycle. Of course I had to learn
the hard way. Luckily no one was looking but at an essentially stopped position
the bike got unbalanced while I was fiddling with the go pro and fell over, big
embarassment! I have been doing 20 full push ups and 80 sit ups daily so I
simply downed tools and using the proper procedure righted the 575 lb machine
and kept going.</span></div>
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After
reversing back via another gem of a place called the Canyon Road House for
lunch we spent the afternoon preparing for and contemplating what I am going to
tell you about tomorrow.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
are all frankly a bit nervous, especially me. There are tortoises and there are
hares. I am definitely a tortoise. It would be better if we could face this
adventure a bit later in the trip. At least our bikes and clothing are suitably
dusty and dirty so we at least 'look' like we have been off roading. We are
heading to a place I can hardly pronounce called Sossusvlei (Sous-sousveli)
which is 573 km away with nearly all gravel and sand roads. I mean good God! It
is apparently a drop dead gorgeous place where the world's highest and best
looking sand dunes take on a very special hue as the sun rises. We will be
having breakfast right in the dunes. Problem is, getting there first.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
could go the long way round and meet further up the line as two people will be
doing but it would mean missing what Helge says is one of the world's most
spectacular places and settings to visit; he is one to know.</span></div>
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I emailed my 'coach from afar' Mike McNulty who was on last year's trip and
rides with similar caution as me. I told him that my wobbly handle bars
yesterday made me feel wobbly too. His recommendation and the success I had
today means that I will be taking this road tomorrow with a bit of trepidation,
a good night's sleep and a 5 am departure before it gets too hot. Still,
573 km is one helluva long way on dirt and gravel. It is at least 10-12 hours
of hard riding. And one might reasonably ask, exactly what kind of surface are
we contemplating?? Sand for sure in places, how deep, stones, pebbles, rock
surface, how rutted is it, is it graded and where, what kind of traffic, are
there any wash outs, how is the visibility with the sun over head and the shadows
on the road not so pronounced etc. etc. and etc.; many things to contemplate
and the liquor will be in short supply tonight for sure.<br />
<br />
With a short road day today I also have time to rest up and prepare. A key
thing is tire pressure- on gravel surfaces and varying terrain it is best to
lower your pressure. I was at 2.4 and 2.7 bars which is a European measurement
and should be more like 2.1 and 2.4. I am now down to 30 psi front and 32 back
for a better and more controlled ride in the heavy going.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
07, Sat, Jan 21</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Canyon
Lodge to Sossusvlei, 573 km</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">T<span style="line-height: initial;">his was a ball buster day and as far as I want to
go off roading on a motorcycle. Aaron (Beckord) and I left, clutches out, at
5:38 am likely several hours before the rest of the crew. It was still dark but
cool (18.5) and the candle power on our bikes lit up the roads very well. At
this early time we saw Giraffes, Ostrich, Kudus and Springbok, not in great
numbers but they were there in this hot, dry, arid desert. We finished almost
exactly 10 hours later with the temperature at 39.5, ie. hot!</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
distance was 574.9 km with all but approx. 100 km gravel and sand roads. They
are graded (occasionally) and pretty darn straight for the most part. The
problem occurs where there is loose build up and your front wheel kind of skiis
through it, a bit unerving at times but you try and get used to it because
there is no choice. It is also a lot of hard work so patience, focus, lots and
lots of hydration and numerous stops to collect your thoughts and relax a bit
is mandatory.<br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
Aaron
is from Oregon, 48 and a real estate investor in housing and strip
malls in the Pacific Northwest. He is a self taught, self managed one
man show and I can tell very good at what he does. He has 600 hours as a
private pilot, owns two airplanes and loves to ride. He is your typical
aw-shucks hillbilly type but just a great guy, very balanced. I could not have
picked a better guy to be with; although he travels faster than I do he is
patient and waits along the way.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I
stuck to 80 klics per hour on the easy bits, maybe 90 in a few places. I went
down to 60-70 klics in the trickier places and there were a lot of those.
Typically you stand up on the pegs to provde increased visibility for what is
ahead and improved balance.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">At
1:47 on my watch I made the very best decision of the day. Even though I was
continually hydrating on the move from my camelpak, I was
fatigued; the problem was recognizing it. Fortunately, I stopped under a shaded
tree, ate one helluva delicious green apple and just gathered my senses. This
stop prepared me for the rest of the trip which though short turned out to be
the most difficult part of the ride with quite a bit of heavy going.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">All
in all I was surprised at my endurance and ability to get this done especially
given the heat, distance and road conditions. Everyone was suitably
complimentary becausetheir off road skills are superior to mine and they could
understand that this was a huge effort because it sure was for them too. We all
felt happy that we made it unscathed!</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Well,
except for Joe! He is just a great rider and all round good guy. He also likes
to travel fast. He hit a concrete water laden bridge going downhill
on a turn; says he was going a 100 klics; under the water was an algae base and
down his bike went, boom. He was very fortunate not to get hurt although he was
covered in mud and debris as was his bike when I was the first person to see
him at lunch about 3 hours later.</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">(aside,
Helge finished first, then Joe then me; Aaron faded and finished at the end of
the group; the others arrived shortly after me which spoke to the wisdom of an
earlier departure)</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We
had a great dinner at our comfortable lodgings near the dunes we will see
tomorrow and consumed fairly copious amounts of celebratory alcohol. Joe was
prevailed upon to foot the bill for his earlier indiscretion (indiscretions can
be meted out for all manner of things like being continually late for meetings
etc.)</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Day
08, Sun, Jan 22</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sossusvlei
only</span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Up at 4 am for a 5 am departure after coffee and a
bun with 'Semi' as our guide; we were in a converted Toyota Landcruiser; it is
a people mover, it was quite chilly and we drove for an hour to get to the sand
dunes. This is one of the key reasons people come to Namibia. They are 2 mm
years old and the largest 'non moving' dunes in the world with the Sahara being
a close second. It doesn't matter the size, what does matter is the majesty and
the unique rust coloured sand. If it was any finer it would be a refined dust.</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The
dunes are 20 miles inland from the coast at an elevation of 1000 meters- we had
come down from a desert elevation of 3000 meters. They inspire complete awe at
the majesty of nature. This being the off season (ie. the Namibian summer) it
was quiet and almost private. We hiked up a hill top about 100 metres high,
rested, hydrated and posed for pictures while Semi captivated us with history
and details of what we were seeing.</span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">I have to say that it was one of the more moving
scenic experiences of my life. Being used to the spectacular beauty of our
westcoast I was nevertheless very, very taken by this natural wonderment of
nature. The ecosystem of plant and wildlife is complex and fragile and it was a
privilege to be in this serene place.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;">After coming down from the hill tops we were
spoiled with a nice picnic breakfast catered by Semi in the Namibian outback.</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The rest of the day was for relaxing and checking
on our bikes, tightening loose stuff, topping up tire pressures and the like to
prepare for tomorrow.</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Tomorrow is another big day of off roading so we
really need to be on our toes and up early. We head to... with...km of varying
degrees of gravel road in front of us. After that, we get a break and head
inland on sealed roads which will be a welcome relief.</span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: initial;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Day 09, Mon, Jan 23rd</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">Sossus Dune Lodge to Swakopmund, 359 km</span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">This is another big day of true off roading and I
get to a neat little gas stop and bakery called Solitare 89 km along the
journey where we meet as a group. I elect to trailer my bike for the rest of
the gravel road bit, another 230 klics. What am I trying to prove anyway? It is
damn hot out, the road has lots of loose sand and gravel and I have already
accomplished the lions share of the Namibian Desert. The rest of the guys are
experienced off roaders and I am just getting my feet wet. Good decision, Nick!</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">The more the day goes on the more I am pleased with
my decisionabout relaxing in the truck, chatting with Andy and taking in the
beautiful scenery that photographs simply cannot capture. This is our last big
dirt day of the trip and everyone seems pleased. I have already elected to pay
for drinks tonight before anyone volunteers me.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">I am concerned that this is getting a bit long,
hope not. Let me finish with the following bullet points:</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">- a tank slapper is when your handle bars go wobbly
(awol) on you and out of control; this is not what you want to happen, ever;</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-it is important to not grip the handle bars
tightly; kind of a loose grip like swinging a golf club to get the best
results; hard to do sometimes;</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-I try to follow car tracks as much as possible but
again when there is a lot of junk in front of you hard to do;</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-they call it 'corrugated' when there are tons of
ruts in the road and you go bumpety bumpety for seemingly ever until you get to
a flat part;</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-am averaging 55 mpg on gas, about same prices as
home;</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-people very, very nice, more on that later;</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-my helmet was timexed so bought a Schuberth as
recommended by Helge; expensive but could not be happier;</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">-my Sidi boots are the absolute best you can by,
very protective and completely satisfied here too.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We crossed the Tropic of Capricorn today.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;">We arrived to our lovely lodgings called the Strand
Hotel right on the Atlantic Ocean via a place called Walvis Bay in the later
afternoon. Time to get this sent off and buy drinks tonight.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<span style="line-height: initial;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="line-height: initial;">Cheerio, N.</span></span></div>
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<![endif]-->Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-39985119241133597412017-01-15T11:00:00.000-08:002017-03-21T18:46:53.331-07:00Missive #1- Tue, Jan 10th to Mon, Jan 15th - Cape Town arrival, touring etc<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Tue, Jan 10th; depart
Vancouver 9:10 pm; uneventful trip marked by full flights and thank goodness
for custom ear plugs drowning out screaming babies and too loud intercoms! Most
will know about the 9 hour flight to Heathrow; More interesting is the 12 hour
north to south flight to Cape Town; with the 3 hour layover in London this is a
24 hour door to door voyage and about as far away from home as you can get one
way. I love this kind of travel because it is relatively quiet and between naps
I get tons of worthwhile reading completed mostly about the state of world
affairs ( English newspapers, Foreign Affairs, Economist 2017 etc.); arrive
7:45 am thur (9:45 pm wed at home).</span><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Observation1: only a tiny number of coloureds
(E. Indians) on board and zero blacks, thought that was sort of interesting
until I asked the proverbial question, looked at the domestic versus
international arrival line ups and learned that at least 95% of the 100% full
airplane are tourists.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Observation 2: no tiresome paperwork to fill
out, hooray! Just about every country I travel to requires a one pager, good
for nothing declaration with the worst part having to search around for what
flight number you were on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Thur, Jan 12th (gain a day enroute); Wish I
could bottle up all the smiles and friendliness and take it home; don't get me
wrong, Canadians are ultra friendly too, the Cape Towners just take it to
another level. Beginning with the hotel staff and taking it from there the huge
smiles and eagerness to be of service makes a guest feel like never wanting to
leave. The Rainbow nation is alive and well at least here.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This was a get over jet lag, mosey around,
get my bearings day; walked the short distance to their world class harbour to
take in the sights of people and activity; took a quick boat tour, checked out
an incredible shopping mall and respited for 90 minutes watching some amazing
free jazz performances from local musicians in their outside amphi-theatre area
seating several thousand;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Cape Town at least the downtown area is truly
deserving as a top five world harbour city (Rio, Sydney, San Fran and
Vancouver) and I am so blessed to be here for a few days; city population 3.7
mm but where I am it seems much tinier than that; the trip in from their nice
airport showed organization at its best, first class highways, cleanliness and
greenery all around.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Tomorrow the hop on hop off bus, Table
Mountain and need to search out some soccer balls.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Fri, Jan13th; Funny thing about the last few
mornings. I wake up, look at myself in the mirror and wonder, who the hell am I
looking at? My 30 year barber lady asked me if I would like a #1 or a #2 cut?
What's the difference I ask; the #1 cut takes it all off, the #2 leaves a
little scrubble; #2 please. Still, it looks like a different guy in the mirror
and the good news is the brush and comb is useless and there is less gray.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">When I travel the jet lag is always, always
the same. East or west doesn't matter, I always seem to hit the ground running
on arrival and collapse in a puddle on the return home. My sleep pattern here
has adjusted remarkably and I feel refreshed and energetic already. The
anticipation of what's ahead may have something to do with it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Today I bought the 195 rand hop on/off bus and
headed to that wonderful landmark, Table Mountain. The 285 rand cable car
ticket (divide roughly by 10) wisks you to the 3000 foot elevation summit in a
jiff- 800k visitors go every year. One would stay there all day sucking in the
360 degree views and majesty of the place but for two reasons. It blows like
hell and it's bloody cold! In fact, when the horn blows you better act fast
because it means an imminent shut down and you might get to walk down. I spent
the balance of the day getting on and off the bus- three routes, excellent
communication, lovely weather and scenery, hard not to like Cape Town. A few
points for my benefit you might gloss over:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-mediterranean climate plus wx extremely
variable;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years on Robben
Island (was told not to go, takes all day and not that great); released in
1995, died in 2013 at 95;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-much of downtown Cape Town sits on reclaimed
land built by guess who in the 1930's and 40's;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-prices here mirror home; small but well
located hotel $250 per night, food, alcohol similarly priced;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-1488 Bartholomew Diaz (Portugal) rounded what
he called the Cape of Good Hope never setting foot- he was looking for an
alternate spice trade route;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-later Cape Town almost became a penal colony
but was voted down in the English House of Commons and they went to Australia
instead;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-pinotage is their wine of choice and the
fruity flavour is something to taste often;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The savannah here was in full swing until the
last lion was shot in 1842;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-the tour guide ear plug discussion does not
hide from the darkness of their nasty, troubled past; <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-1967 Dr. Christian Barnard did the first
heart transplant, can't believe it was that long ago and nice that it happened
here;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Cape Town has a huge water shortage problem;
the underground reservoir emanating from the Table Mountain runoff cannot keep
up;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-apartheid started in 1948 and finished in
1994; inter marriages banned; 1960-85, 3-5 mm moved from homes; cannot imagine
what that would have been like and well within my lifetime;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-Cecil Rhodes died in 1902 at just 49 and left
a huge if checkered legacy;<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">-would like to finish by saying that Mandela's
legacy of reconciliation and over coming the oppression of colonialism with
compassion, understanding and serenity by encouraging people to rise above
their limitations has to mark him along with Churchill and ML King as
the geatest individuals of the 20th century; the poor guy would be turning in
his grave with the likes of what Mbeki and Zuma have been up to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">About 4 pm I arrived by tour bus at my
'supposed' destination on Regent st. way in the boonies to hopefully
find the Sportsman's Warehouse where cheap soccer balls can be purchased.
I walk several blocks near Sea Point and it is pretty obvious that I got a bum
steer. Just then this cabbie called Desmond shows up telling me the place is on
the other side of town! Off we go; what a character, 48 years old, 20 years on
the job, 5 kids, full of enthusiasm and zest and adopts me for life. Needless
to say we found this huge sports place and lined up 5 dozen balls at 100 rand
apiece all in to give away to kids on the jouney north. I sure hope there is
enough room in our following chase vehicle which will soon be determined.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Aside: Desmond who is white has spent time in
Durban and Joberg. Sadly he says that the harmony evident in Cape Town is
nowhere to be seen up there. Wonder how they will find a way to bridge this
gap?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">While this is not part of the 'trip proper' it
is still worthwhile for me to narrate the story so please feel free to scan
through these meanderings. Tomorrow many of our gang will have shown up, intros
will be made and we pick up the bikes Monday. Getting closer!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Sat, Jan
14th; last night met my roomy from Lake Tahoe, Steve Smith, we hung out
watching and listening to some fabulous live jazz down at the harbour and
soaked up the sounds and general friendliness of everyone and then had a bite
to eat in a noisy bar, not the best place to get acquainted but the band was on
a break when we sat down. Steve is a laid back Californian from Lake Tahoe and
enjoyed his company. He is a very experienced rider, has a chronic bad back
that almost precluded him from coming and is a residential house contractor.
While some may want the privacy of their own room at the end of a days ride I
prefer to share the experience even with a new acquaintance. We will see what
happens and split up when spare sleeping facilities are available or needed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">This morning at breakfast I met Christian and
Debbie Harrison who have been on nearly all of Helge's rides and are very good
friends; seemed like friendly upfront people hailing from Washington State.
After breakfast I was wondering around and met Dean Tanji from Orange
County so we had a chat and got acquainted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p><o:p></o:p>It is 5:03 pm and I am presently sitting at
this amazing outside bar under a sun umbrella listening to jazz and getting
waited on hand and foot by a bunch of smiley, helpful black faces. I started
with a local draft and have progressed to a very tasty pinotage, pretty nice!
Oh, I almost forgot, the sushi sitting in front of me is the best ever;
life does not get better especially in Africa so better enjoy it before
heading north.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>I have gathered and saved some commentaries
that I can relate to and seems to suit my approach to life especially on
a ride like this:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Success equals healthy tension.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>When you run away from fear, it grows in your
mind; when you move towards fear and attack it directly it recedes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Be strong when you feel weak, be brave when
you feel fear, be humble when you are victorious.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>If you think you can, or think you can't,
you're right!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Over the mountains of the moon, down the
valley of the shadows, ride, bodly, ride (Edgar Allen Poe).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Ride far, ride safe!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>I will be living these maxims over the next 65
days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Whatever happens on this journey I am
embracing the adventure and feel happy and complete. It is so enervating to be
able to take on a challenge like this with its risks and complexities and
feel like it is eminently doable despite the unknowns. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>Sun, Jan
15th; more touring around and do not know when I will be back. Went to a so so
museum and then did some shopping- health bars, various bits and pieces etc.;
the highlight was the botanical gardens around the back of Table Mountain. It
is the kind of serene place to go and spend a whole day not just an hour or
two. Established in 1902 with a long history before that, it is a thousand acre
nature preserve of which 80 acres is this fabulous walking space on a hillside
containing 4500 Southern African plant and tree species; a truly special place.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I have now met the 'gang' all suffering from
various forms of jet lag. We met for several hours this afternoon to go over
GPS and satellite communication systems and listen to Helge as he prepares us
for what is ahead. We have two very nice locals, big men who will be
accompanying us (Andy and Harry). Tomorrow we meet in full riding gear to go
and pick up our bikes in the docklands and prepare for departure <span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">Tuesday</span>.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>No matter
what, this is the kind of trip that ultimately you do on your own, just like
the trip of life. I will have 10 compadres or mates to rely on as they will
rely on me but ultimately I am responsible for my own destiny.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p>With that in mind, a well known even famous
bond manager called Bill Gross sends out a newsletter and I thought that this
weeks's one was appropriate to me. He had travelled to Africa some years ago.
He always likes to begin his letters with something thoughtful to capture his
reader's attention. This past week his letter arrived with an interesting poem
and a paragraph about Africa which was prescient considering that I am about to
embark on this escapade. Therefore, I share it as follows:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p><span style="font-family: "times new roman";"> </span></o:p></span><span style="color: #1360b6; font-family: "helveticaneue" , serif; font-size: 32pt;">Echoes from Africa</span><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: "akzidenzgroteskbe" , serif; font-size: 10pt;">If I sang a song about Africa<br />
Of the spotted giraffe, the hyena’s laugh<br />
Of the ery sun rising to meet the day<br />
With a stillness belying the lion’s evening meal; Would Africa sing a song
about me?</span><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: "akzidenzgroteskbe" , serif; font-size: 10pt;">If I remembered a time once in
Africa,<br />
Bride at my shoulder, chasing a leopard’s shadow With human eyes and Nikon
shutters wide apart Invading the solitude of blackened ancestors; Would Africa
remember a time once with me?</span><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: "akzidenzgroteskbe" , serif; font-size: 10pt;">If I knew a story of Africa<br />
Capturing a disappearing continent for a moment in time Fleeting – far briefer
than the earth’s reign;<br />
At least until its dusty death,<br />
Would Africa know a story of me?</span><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: "akzidenzgroteskbe" , serif; font-size: 10pt;">Bill Gross<br />
- With appreciation for Isak Dinesen</span><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="color: #4c4c4c; font-family: "akzidenzgroteskbe" , serif; font-size: 11.5pt;">Tra</span><span style="color: black; font-family: "slate pro" , serif; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;">veled once to Africa, as you might
have guessed by now, and it's been a part of me ever since. Being perhaps the
cradle of civilization, if not life itself, Africa casts an eerie glow over the
entire history and, indeed, meaning of existence. There's a strange beauty to
it – this eat and be eaten land – brutal, yet fair and loving underneath its
violent surface. I think it's how I view my own life. I <span style="font-family: "slate pro" , serif;">saw myself</span></span></span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;"> in Africa and, of
course, through my own eyes I saw you there, too. The question however, that
ends every stanza of my poem is whether Africa saw and will remember me. Are we
just passing through without a trace following our dusty deaths? Will anyone, or
anything, at the end of the line be the better for our time on earth? I,
myself, know nothing of a grand scheme of existence, but I wish there to be one
– if only to give meaning to our precious moments of happiness and frequent
hours of despair.</span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="https://www.janus.com/insights/bill-gross-investment-outlook"><span style="color: blue;">https://www.janus.com/insights/bill-gross-investment-outlook</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #262626; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Things about to get busy, time to send this
off, NG<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3723813530896654840.post-40882473575981930622017-01-10T11:00:00.000-08:002017-02-23T23:20:26.229-08:00Missive, January 10, 2017 Note to self, preamble<br />
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On May 23<sup>rd</sup> I first heard about
Globerider’s inaugural African motorcycle tour from the southern portion of the
continent to the north. Starting in <st1:city u2:st="on"><u3:city u4:st="on">Capetown</u3:city></st1:city>,
<st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u5:country-region u6:st="on">South Africa</u5:country-region></st1:country-region>
on January 15, 2017 and ending in <st1:place u2:st="on"><st1:city u2:st="on"><u7:place u8:st="on"><u7:city u8:st="on">Cairo</u7:city></u7:place></st1:city>,
<st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u9:country-region u10:st="on">Egypt</u9:country-region></st1:country-region></st1:place>
65 days later on March 18<sup>th</sup>, it is a 15,000 km journey. Helge
Pedersen is the principle of Globeriders and is one of the world’s most
respected adventure motorcycle tour operators. Having completed the 12,000 km
Silk Road trip from Istanbul, Turkey to Xian, China in 2011 I can attest to
that first hand.<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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I got excited about this trip pretty quickly and
made some calls the first being to my good friend, lifetime friend really,
Chris Banks. Chris and I went to Glenlyon together way back in grade 5, then
Shawnigan and have been pals ever since. He has lived in Africa for the past 45
years, mostly in <st1:place u2:st="on"><st1:city u2:st="on"><u11:place u12:st="on"><u11:city u12:st="on">Nairobi</u11:city></u11:place></st1:city>,
<st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u13:country-region u14:st="on">Kenya</u13:country-region></st1:country-region></st1:place>.
He speaks 6 languages, has a Kenyan wife called Jackie and two grown kids who
attended Shawnigan and live and work in <st1:state u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on"><u15:state u16:st="on"><u15:place u16:st="on">Victoria</u15:place></u15:state></st1:place></st1:state>.
In addition, they own a trucking company and move freight all over the
continent. Who better to converse with than Chris?<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Chris was immediately excited about the Globeriders
journey and very positive about my participation saying it would be the trip of
a lifetime and a truly great experience travelling through one of the world’s
last continental frontiers.<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Next I spoke to my Silk Road pal Mike McNulty who
coincidentally also owns a trucking company in <st1:place u2:st="on"><u17:place u18:st="on">Southern
California</u17:place></st1:place>. Although our riding skills are similar I
have to say that Mike is out there a bit more than me on the adventure travel
tangent. Mike has been all over the world with Helge and was on the
‘exploratory’ <st1:place u2:st="on"><u19:place u20:st="on">Africa</u19:place></st1:place>
trip last year in a group of four. They were the third contingent mapping out
where we should go and how we should do it. Following their posted journal let
me know a bit about their trip, some of their hardships and what would not be
repeated!<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Mike also was very positive about the African
journey and frankly, he was my litmus test for even signing up. He said it was
right up there with the <st1:place u2:st="on"><u21:place u22:st="on">Silk Road</u21:place></st1:place>
experience. Less on the history and the culture but more on the scenery, beauty
of the countryside, the wonderful people we would meet along the way and the
variety of the countries we would be traversing.<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Based on Chris and Mike’s say so and Waan’s
important blessing, it became a cautious ‘go’.<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Further research has fuelled my enthusiasm for the
trip but also tempered it with caution. I have read and highlighted nearly all
of the Economist magazine articles covering <st1:place u2:st="on"><u23:place u24:st="on">Africa</u23:place></st1:place>
for 2016. I have read two fine books one by Alex Perry (The Rift-A New Africa
Breaks Free) and another by Paul Theroux (Dark Star Safari- Overland from <st1:city u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on"><u25:place u26:st="on"><u25:city u26:st="on">Cairo</u25:city></u25:place></st1:place></st1:city>
to Capetown, 2004). Armed with a tiny bit of history and understanding of this
immense and diffuse continent of over a billion people (very approx 1.2
billion) I have discovered that its land mass of 54 countries is huge: the <st1:country-region u2:st="on">U.S.</st1:country-region>,
<st1:country-region u2:st="on">China</st1:country-region>, <st1:country-region u2:st="on">India</st1:country-region>,
<st1:country-region u2:st="on">Mexico</st1:country-region> and Europe all fit
into <st1:place u2:st="on">Africa</st1:place> with no problem. Africa is three
times the size of the <st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u27:country-region u28:st="on">United
States</u27:country-region></st1:country-region> and three times the size of <st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on"><u29:country-region u30:st="on"><u29:place u30:st="on">Canada</u29:place></u29:country-region></st1:place></st1:country-region>.<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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We will be travelling through the following
countries: <u31:country-region u32:st="on">South Africa</u31:country-region>, <u31:country-region u32:st="on">Namibia</u31:country-region>,
<u31:country-region u32:st="on">Botswana</u31:country-region>, <u31:country-region u32:st="on">Zambia</u31:country-region>,
<u31:country-region u32:st="on">Zimbabwe</u31:country-region> (to see Victoria
Falls only), <u31:country-region u32:st="on">Malawi</u31:country-region>, <u31:country-region u32:st="on">Tanzania</u31:country-region>,
<u31:country-region u32:st="on">Kenya</u31:country-region>, <u31:country-region u32:st="on">Ethiopia</u31:country-region>,
<u31:country-region u32:st="on">Sudan</u31:country-region> and <u31:place u32:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on">Egypt</u31:country-region></u31:place>.
These 11 countries comprise approximately a third of the population of the
continent, 43% of its GDP (<st1:place u2:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on">Africa</u31:place></st1:place>
has a GDP of $2.3 billion or approx. $2230 per head) and 31% of the continental
land mass. There are over 2000 languages spoken on the continent. Clearly we
will only be scratching the surface of this huge place and incidentally the
cradle of civilization that seems so imposing on our globe. One last tidbit,
the average age in these countries is about 18 versus 40 years in <st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on">Canada</u31:country-region></st1:country-region>,
27 in <st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on">Mexico</u31:country-region></st1:country-region>
and 35 in <st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on">China</u31:country-region></u31:place></st1:place></st1:country-region>
so longevity is not really and issue here.<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Thankfully, our journey takes us through countries
that are (mostly!) hospitable. I am not sure that the <st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on">Congo</u31:country-region></st1:country-region>,
<st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on">Nigeria</u31:country-region></st1:country-region>,
South Sudan, <st1:country-region u2:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on">Somalia</u31:country-region></st1:country-region>,
<st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on"><u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on">Eritrea</u31:place></u31:country-region></st1:place></st1:country-region>
and many in the western area of the continent would be quite so welcoming.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Apart from a reasonably significant investment for
a trip of this nature, I under estimated some other requirements. The
vaccination process for typhoid, meningitis, tetanus, yellow fever, rabies and
malaria etc. etc was time consuming and expensive. Likewise, the visa process;
without my good friend Myrna Arychuk at the Ukrainian Travel Service in <st1:city u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><u31:city u32:st="on">Vancouver</u31:city></u31:place></st1:place></st1:city>
I would have been a goner. Myrna expertly shepherded the myriad complexities of
dealing with foreign embassies and in particular the Sudanese embassy in <st1:city u2:st="on"><u31:city u32:st="on">Khartoum</u31:city></st1:city>
and <st1:city u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><u31:city u32:st="on">Ottawa</u31:city></u31:place></st1:place></st1:city>
which was well nigh impossible, thanks again Myrna! Lastly, all the little
details- not to bore anyone but there are almost infinite things to think about
when preparing for a trip like this: not only a well stocked inventory of the
essentials required on a motorcycle journey like this which requires maximizing
the use of small spaces but also medical supplies, educational preparation and
good physical fitness to endure the rigours of the road and maintain alertness
at all times. <o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Therefore, with some trepidation, anxiety, fear of
the unknown and a healthy degree of awareness of some of the risks, I undertake
this ‘life experience’ adventure with enthusiasm and commitment. There are many
other voyages one could choose however, I really do want to get out and explore
the world while the resources and inclination to do so are alive and well.
There is simply no better way to do this than by motorcycle; the sights,
sounds, smells, proximity to life on the road and viewpoints are non parallel.
It is my fault entirely that I enjoy this form of travel. I found this
out on the <st1:place u2:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on">Silk Road</u31:place></st1:place>
and have re-read my journals; this has also emphasized the importance of taking
time and effort to record thoughts and observations along the way not only for
my readers but also for my own benefit when memory recall becomes a bit hazy.
Hopefully my experiences on that trip will bode well for a safe and exciting
journey on this one!<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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This started out as a ‘note to self’ and morphed a
bit; I would like to invite you to explore the Globerider’s website <a href="http://www.globeriders.com/"><span style="color: blue;">www.globeriders.com</span></a>. It is an excellent
compendium and information source for those interested and contains some of the
most fabulous photographs anywhere. Our collective journey will be posted here.<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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I am sending this along to family, friends and
those that might also like to follow the trip. It is my plan to send a periodic
diary every ten days or so outlining all manner of things relating to the
journey. Please let me know if you would like to be excluded or else just
do a quick delete and carry on; thanks a lot, pass the journals along if you
feel like it and hope you enjoy the reading as much as I will the writing!<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Best regards,<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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Nick G.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Ps the country entry and exit dates are as follows:<o:p></o:p></div>
<u1:p></u1:p>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">South
Africa</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
January 15-19<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Namibia</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
January 19-27<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Botswana</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
January 27-29<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Zambia</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
January 29- February 2<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Malawi</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
February 2-7<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Tanzania</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
February 7-16<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Kenya</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
February 16-21<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Ethiopia</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
February 21- March 1<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Sudan</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
March 1-7<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u31:country-region u32:st="on"><u31:place u32:st="on"><st1:country-region u2:st="on"><st1:place u2:st="on">Egypt</st1:place></st1:country-region></u31:place></u31:country-region>
March
7-18
<u1:p></u1:p><o:p></o:p></div>
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Nick Ghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14656204303504656516noreply@blogger.com0