Missive #1- Tue, Jan 10th to Mon, Jan 15th - Cape Town arrival, touring etc

Tue, Jan 10th; depart Vancouver 9:10 pm; uneventful trip marked by full flights and thank goodness for custom ear plugs drowning out screaming babies and too loud intercoms! Most will know about the 9 hour flight to Heathrow; More interesting is the 12 hour north to south flight to Cape Town; with the 3 hour layover in London this is a 24 hour door to door voyage‎ and about as far away from home as you can get one way. I love this kind of travel because it is relatively quiet and between naps I get tons of worthwhile reading completed mostly about the state of world affairs ( English newspapers, Foreign Affairs, Economist 2017 etc.); arrive 7:45 am thur (9:45 pm wed at home).

Observation1: only a tiny number of coloureds (E. Indians) on board and zero blacks, thought that was sort of interesting until I asked the proverbial question, looked at the domestic versus international arrival line ups and learned that at least 95% of the 100% full airplane are tourists.

Observation 2: no tiresome paperwork to fill out, hooray! Just about every country I travel to requires a one pager, good for nothing declaration with the worst part having to search around for what flight number you were on.

 Thur, Jan 12th (gain a day enroute); Wish I could bottle up all the smiles and friendliness and take it home; don't get me wrong, Canadians are ultra friendly too, the Cape Towners just take it to another level. Beginning with the hotel staff and taking it from there the huge smiles and eagerness to be of service‎ makes a guest feel like never wanting to leave. The Rainbow nation is alive and well at least here.

This was a get over jet lag, mosey around,‎ get my bearings day; walked the short distance to their world class harbour to take in the sights of people and activity; took a quick boat tour, checked out an incredible shopping mall and respited for 90 minutes watching some amazing free jazz performances from local musicians in their outside amphi-theatre area seating several thousand;

Cape Town at least the downtown area ‎is truly deserving as a top five world harbour city (Rio, Sydney, San Fran and Vancouver) and I am so blessed to be here for a few days; city population 3.7 mm but where I am it seems much tinier than that; the trip in from their nice airport showed organization at its best, first class highways, cleanliness and greenery all around.

Tomorrow the hop on hop off bus, Table Mountain and need to search out some soccer balls.

 Fri, Jan13th;‎ Funny thing about the last few mornings. I wake up, look at myself in the mirror and wonder, who the hell am I looking at?‎ My 30 year barber lady asked me if I would like a #1 or a #2 cut? What's the difference I ask; the #1 cut takes it all off, the #2 leaves a little scrubble; #2 please. Still, it looks like a different guy in the mirror‎ and the good news is the brush and comb is useless and there is less gray.

When I travel the jet lag is always, always the same. East or west doesn't matter, I always seem to hit the ground running on arrival and collapse in a puddle on the return home. My sleep pattern here has adjusted remarkably and I feel refreshed and energetic already. The anticipation of what's ahead may have something to do with it.

Today I bought the 195 rand hop on/off bus and headed to that wonderful landmark, Table Mountain‎. The 285 rand cable car ticket (divide roughly by 10) wisks you to the 3000 foot elevation summit in a jiff- 800k visitors go every year. One would stay there all day sucking in the 360 degree views and majesty of the place but for two reasons. It blows like hell and it's bloody cold! In fact, when the horn blows you better act fast because it means an imminent shut down and you might get to walk down. I spent the balance of the day getting on and off the bus- three routes, excellent communication, lovely weather and scenery, hard not to like Cape Town. A few points for my benefit you might gloss over:

-mediterranean climate plus wx extremely variable;

-Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years on Robben Island (was told not to go, takes all day and not that great); released in 1995, died in 2013 at 95;

-much of downtown Cape Town sits on reclaimed land built by guess who in the 1930's and 40's;

-prices here mirror home; small but well located ‎hotel $250 per night, food, alcohol similarly priced;

-1488 Bartholomew Diaz (Portugal) rounded what he called the Cape of Good Hope never setting foot- he was looking for an alternate spice trade route;

-later Cape Town almost became a penal colony but was voted down in the English House of Commons and they went to Australia instead;

-pinotage is their wine of choice and the fruity flavour is something to ‎taste often;

The savannah here was in full swing until the last lion was shot in 1842;

-‎the tour guide ear plug discussion does not hide from the darkness of their nasty, troubled past; 

-1967 Dr. Christian Barnard did the first heart transplant, can't believe it was that long ago and nice that it happened here;

-Cape Town has a huge water shortage problem; the underground reservoir emanating from the Table Mountain runoff cannot keep up;

-apartheid started in 1948 and finished in 1994; inter marriages banned; 1960-85, 3-5 mm moved from homes; cannot imagine what that would have been like and well within my lifetime;

-Cecil Rhodes died in 1902 at just 49 and left a huge if checkered legacy;

-would like to finish by saying that Mandela's legacy of reconciliation and over coming the oppression of colonialism with compassion, understanding and serenity by encouraging people to rise above their limitations has to mark him along with Churchill  ‎and ML King as the geatest individuals of the 20th century; the poor guy would be turning in his grave with the likes of what Mbeki and Zuma have been up to.

About 4 pm I arrived by tour bus at my 'supposed' destination on Regent st. wa‎y in the boonies to hopefully  find the Sportsman's Warehouse where cheap soccer balls can be purchased. I walk several blocks near Sea Point and it is pretty obvious that I got a bum steer. Just then this cabbie called Desmond shows up telling me the place is on the other side of town! Off we go; what a character, 48 years old, 20 years on the job, 5 kids‎, full of enthusiasm and zest and adopts me for life. Needless to say we found this huge sports place and lined up 5 dozen balls at 100 rand apiece all in to give away to kids on the jouney north. I sure hope there is enough room in our following chase vehicle which will soon be determined.

Aside: Desmond who is white has spent time in Durban and Joberg. Sadly he says that the harmony evident in Cape Town is nowhere to be seen up there. Wonder how they will find a way to bridge this gap?

While this is not part of the 'trip proper' it is still worthwhile for me to narrate the story so please feel free to scan through these meanderings. Tomorrow many of our gang will have shown up, intros will be made and we pick up the bikes Monday. Getting closer!

 Sat, Jan 14th; last night met my roomy from Lake Tahoe, Steve Smith, we hung out watching and listening to some fabulous live jazz down at the harbour and soaked up the sounds and general friendliness of everyone and then had a bite to eat in a noisy bar, not the best place to get acquainted but the band was on a break when we sat down. Steve is a laid back Californian from Lake Tahoe and enjoyed his company. He is a very experienced rider, has a chronic bad back that almost precluded him from coming and is a residential house contractor. While some may want the privacy of their own room at the end of a days ride I prefer to share the experience even with a new acquaintance. We will see what happens and split up when spare sleeping facilities are available or needed.

This morning at breakfast I met Christian and Debbie Harrison who have been on nearly all of Helge's rides and are very good friends; seemed like friendly upfront people hailing from Washington State. After breakfast  I was wondering around and met Dean Tanji from Orange County so we had a chat and got acquainted.

 It is 5:03 pm and I am presently sitting at this amazing outside bar under a sun umbrella listening to jazz and getting waited on hand and foot by a bunch of smiley, helpful black faces. I started with a local draft and have progressed to a very tasty pinotage, pretty nice! Oh, I almost forgot, the sushi sitting in front of me is the best ever;  life does not get better especially in Africa so better enjoy it before heading north.

 I have gathered and saved some commentaries  that I can relate to and seems to suit my approach to life especially on a ride like this:

 Success equals healthy tension.

 When you run away from fear, it grows in your mind; when you move towards fear and attack it directly it recedes.

 Be strong when you feel weak, be brave when you feel fear, be humble when you are victorious.

 If you think you can, or think you can't, you're right!

 Over the mountains of the moon, down the valley of the shadows, ride, bodly, ride (Edgar  Allen Poe).

 Ride far, ride safe!

 I will be living these maxims over the next 65 days.

 Whatever happens on this journey I am embracing the adventure and feel happy and complete. It is so enervating to be able to take on a challenge like this with  its risks and complexities and feel like it is eminently doable despite the unknowns.

 Sun, Jan 15th; more touring around and do not know when I will be back. Went to a so so museum and then did some shopping- health bars, various bits and pieces etc.; the highlight was the botanical gardens around the back of Table Mountain. It is the kind of serene place to go and spend a whole day not just an hour or two. Established in 1902 with a long history before that, it is a thousand acre nature preserve of which 80 acres is this fabulous walking space on a hillside containing 4500 Southern African plant and tree species; a truly special place.

I have now met the 'gang' all suffering from various forms of jet lag. We met for several hours this afternoon to go over GPS and satellite communication systems‎ and listen to Helge as he prepares us for what is ahead. We have two very nice locals, big men who will be accompanying us (Andy and Harry). Tomorrow we meet in full riding gear to go and pick up our bikes in the docklands and prepare for departure Tuesday.

 No matter what, this is the kind of trip that ultimately you do on your own, just like the trip of life. I will have 10 compadres or mates to rely on as they will rely on me but ultimately I am responsible for my own destiny.

 With that in mind, a well known even famous bond manager called Bill Gross sends out a newsletter and I thought that this weeks's one was appropriate to me. He had travelled to Africa some years ago. He always likes to begin his letters with something thoughtful to capture his reader's attention. This past week his letter arrived with an interesting poem and a paragraph about Africa which was prescient considering that I am about to embark on this escapade. Therefore, I share it as follows:

 Echoes from Africa

If I sang a song about Africa
Of the spotted giraffe, the hyena’s laugh
Of the ery sun rising to meet the day
With a stillness belying the lion’s evening meal; Would Africa sing a song about me?

If I remembered a time once in Africa,
Bride at my shoulder, chasing a leopard’s shadow With human eyes and Nikon shutters wide apart Invading the solitude of blackened ancestors; Would Africa remember a time once with me?

If I knew a story of Africa
Capturing a disappearing continent for a moment in time Fleeting – far briefer than the earth’s reign;
At least until its dusty death,
Would Africa know a story of me?

Bill Gross
- With appreciation for Isak Dinesen

Traveled once to Africa, as you might have guessed by now, and it's been a part of me ever since. Being perhaps the cradle of civilization, if not life itself, Africa casts an eerie glow over the entire history and, indeed, meaning of existence. There's a strange beauty to it – this eat and be eaten land – brutal, yet fair and loving underneath its violent surface. I think it's how I view my own life. I saw myself in Africa and, of course, through my own eyes I saw you there, too. The question however, that ends every stanza of my poem is whether Africa saw and will remember me. Are we just passing through without a trace following our dusty deaths? Will anyone, or anything, at the end of the line be the better for our time on earth? I, myself, know nothing of a grand scheme of existence, but I wish there to be one – if only to give meaning to our precious moments of happiness and frequent hours of despair.

https://www.janus.com/insights/bill-gross-investment-outlook

Things about to get busy, time to send this off, NG

Missive, January 10, 2017

Note to self, preamble

On May 23^rd I first heard about Globerider’s inaugural African motorcycle tour from the southern portion of the continent to the north. Starting in Capetown, South Africa on January 15, 2017 and ending in Cairo, Egypt 65 days later on March 18^th, it is a 15,000 km journey. Helge Pedersen is the principle of Globeriders and is one of the world’s most respected adventure motorcycle tour operators. Having completed the 12,000 km Silk Road trip from Istanbul, Turkey to Xian, China in 2011 I can attest to that first hand.

I got excited about this trip pretty quickly and made some calls the first being to my good friend, lifetime friend really, Chris Banks. Chris and I went to Glenlyon together way back in grade 5, then Shawnigan and have been pals ever since. He has lived in Africa for the past 45 years, mostly in Nairobi, Kenya. He speaks 6 languages, has a Kenyan wife called Jackie and two grown kids who attended Shawnigan and live and work in Victoria. In addition, they own a trucking company and move freight all over the continent. Who better to converse with than Chris?

Chris was immediately excited about the Globeriders journey and very positive about my participation saying it would be the trip of a lifetime and a truly great experience travelling through one of the world’s last continental frontiers.

Next I spoke to my Silk Road pal Mike McNulty who coincidentally also owns a trucking company in Southern California. Although our riding skills are similar I have to say that Mike is out there a bit more than me on the adventure travel tangent. Mike has been all over the world with Helge and was on the ‘exploratory’ Africa trip last year in a group of four. They were the third contingent mapping out where we should go and how we should do it. Following their posted journal let me know a bit about their trip, some of their hardships and what would not be repeated!

Mike also was very positive about the African journey and frankly, he was my litmus test for even signing up. He said it was right up there with the Silk Road experience. Less on the history and the culture but more on the scenery, beauty of the countryside, the wonderful people we would meet along the way and the variety of the countries we would be traversing.

Based on Chris and Mike’s say so and Waan’s important blessing, it became a cautious ‘go’.

Further research has fuelled my enthusiasm for the trip but also tempered it with caution. I have read and highlighted nearly all of the Economist magazine articles covering Africa for 2016. I have read two fine books one by Alex Perry (The Rift-A New Africa Breaks Free) and another by Paul Theroux (Dark Star Safari- Overland from Cairo to Capetown, 2004). Armed with a tiny bit of history and understanding of this immense and diffuse continent of over a billion people (very approx 1.2 billion) I have discovered that its land mass of 54 countries is huge: the U.S., China, India, Mexico and Europe all fit into Africa with no problem. Africa is three times the size of the United States and three times the size of Canada.

We will be travelling through the following countries: South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe (to see Victoria Falls only), Malawi, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan and Egypt. These 11 countries comprise approximately a third of the population of the continent, 43% of its GDP (Africa has a GDP of $2.3 billion or approx. $2230 per head) and 31% of the continental land mass. There are over 2000 languages spoken on the continent. Clearly we will only be scratching the surface of this huge place and incidentally the cradle of civilization that seems so imposing on our globe. One last tidbit, the average age in these countries is about 18 versus 40 years in Canada, 27 in Mexico and 35 in China so longevity is not really and issue here.

Thankfully, our journey takes us through countries that are (mostly!) hospitable. I am not sure that the Congo, Nigeria, South Sudan, Somalia, Eritrea and many in the western area of the continent would be quite so welcoming.

Apart from a reasonably significant investment for a trip of this nature, I under estimated some other requirements. The vaccination process for typhoid, meningitis, tetanus, yellow fever, rabies and malaria etc. etc was time consuming and expensive. Likewise, the visa process; without my good friend Myrna Arychuk at the Ukrainian Travel Service in Vancouver I would have been a goner. Myrna expertly shepherded the myriad complexities of dealing with foreign embassies and in particular the Sudanese embassy in Khartoum and Ottawa which was well nigh impossible, thanks again Myrna! Lastly, all the little details- not to bore anyone but there are almost infinite things to think about when preparing for a trip like this: not only a well stocked inventory of the essentials required on a motorcycle journey like this which requires maximizing the use of small spaces but also medical supplies, educational preparation and good physical fitness to endure the rigours of the road and maintain alertness at all times. 

Therefore, with some trepidation, anxiety, fear of the unknown and a healthy degree of awareness of some of the risks, I undertake this ‘life experience’ adventure with enthusiasm and commitment. There are many other voyages one could choose however, I really do want to get out and explore the world while the resources and inclination to do so are alive and well. There is simply no better way to do this than by motorcycle; the sights, sounds, smells, proximity to life on the road and viewpoints are non parallel. It is my fault entirely that I enjoy this form of travel.  I found this out on the Silk Road and have re-read my journals; this has also emphasized the importance of taking time and effort to record thoughts and observations along the way not only for my readers but also for my own benefit when memory recall becomes a bit hazy. Hopefully my experiences on that trip will bode well for a safe and exciting journey on this one!

This started out as a ‘note to self’ and morphed a bit; I would like to invite you to explore the Globerider’s website www.globeriders.com. It is an excellent compendium and information source for those interested and contains some of the most fabulous photographs anywhere. Our collective journey will be posted here.

I am sending this along to family, friends and those that might also like to follow the trip. It is my plan to send a periodic diary every ten days or so outlining all manner of things relating to the journey.  Please let me know if you would like to be excluded or else just do a quick delete and carry on; thanks a lot, pass the journals along if you feel like it and hope you enjoy the reading as much as I will the writing!

Best regards,

Nick G.

Ps the country entry and exit dates are as follows:

South Africa               January 15-19

Namibia                      January 19-27

Botswana                    January 27-29

Zambia                        January 29- February 2

Malawi                        February 2-7

Tanzania                     February 7-16

Kenya                          February 16-21

Ethiopia                      February 21- March 1

Sudan                          March 1-7

Egypt                          March 7-18